kpl
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Post by kpl on Oct 4, 2019 2:43:59 GMT -8
Any idea, would it also work the other way? Shortening the top box would allow it to fit inside the circumference of a barrel, upper barrel would not need that cutout any more.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Dec 3, 2018 0:10:28 GMT -8
Incidentally, just today I installed a corrugated steel shield behind my heater. There's about 4" of space behind the heater and the wall but the plasterboard wall behind it did get worrying warm last winter. Now with the shield in place, the heater is as warm as before but the shield is barely handwarm. The air streaming up behind it is keeping the wall cool. Zinc-coated steel is extremely effective this way. I have old doors from telephone switch racks installed behind my temporary heater. They consist of two skins with about 15mm between them, both perforated with quite big holes. Those shields do not get even warm, while brick wall was getting quite hot before.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 28, 2018 5:08:30 GMT -8
I should try that. In my opinion, this must level itself at some point. As gases in chimney move faster, they have less time to rob heat from chimney walls.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 28, 2018 0:52:22 GMT -8
I like the idea of an insulated pipe dropping down with a brick column around it. When you say an over sized opening down low what did you have in mind ? I'm having trouble visualizing it. Does that pipe actually have to be insulated? Uninsulated pipe would, certainly, steal some amount of heat; but it would heat up the chimney gases, which should eliminate the need of damper! When starting up a cold heater, chimney pipe would get hot quite quickly at the top, encouraging gas flow. That way, lower part should heat up quicker. I'm in similar situation with my workshop heater: it's a rented place that I do not want to invest a lot; There is only a hole in a wall that I have installed single wall tin chimney through, and there is very little space for a heater itself. Additionally, there is a need for both quick heat and for heat storage, to avoid workshop cooling completely until next evening, as there may be some paint/varnish/glue drying in the room.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Sept 10, 2018 21:02:12 GMT -8
Is there enough space to build an air channel through a masonry heater? That should provide hotter air, and even would be adjustable.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Sept 10, 2018 20:56:41 GMT -8
At the end, this starts to look like a classic rocket engine, with small burn chamber and then a nozzle. If gases are still expanding after a burn chamber, widening nozzle should really amplify the draft.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 4, 2018 4:07:02 GMT -8
Probably approach from the other side? Build a brick bell, but install a C - shaped metal pipe inside, both ends coming through bell wall to the room. When both ends are closed, bell and pipe heats up, when they are open, air is allowed to pass through the pipe and heat up the room.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 14, 2017 2:52:35 GMT -8
If it's a workshop, most probably, there is power available. Then chimney fan can be installed, which should solve this problem. I like the design of that 1500W heater, was going to build one just like that, but with only one barrel and much higher brick portion, to get a bit more heat mass. But it's already winter, again Current "deom turbo 4" will have to work one more season.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Oct 25, 2017 21:24:47 GMT -8
In this kind of setup, would it be wise to put secondary air channel above the ceiling, "on the second floor" - could the metal tube live longer with less oxygen available? Small door above the firebox door would allow easy replacement too.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Oct 20, 2017 0:57:12 GMT -8
I have been thinking of same design for years, but everyone told it won't work, so it was never built. That's a very promising development guys. pinhead : Where would you place the P-channel and what would it look like? I also guess you could rotate the port and "liser" 90° couldn't you? this would open up a lot more design options to build a more elegant stove. Ceiling could be built with two layers with a small gap between them, which would allow air to get sucked into the port from all sides. www.dropbox.com/s/1cw0he6jfgafm6m/double_ceiling.jpg
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Sept 22, 2017 11:08:57 GMT -8
car MAF also came first to my mind, but it usually uses "heated wire" principle, which is quite difficult to interface. There is no cheap simple arduino solution, or at least I have not seen one. Air speed is quite difficult to measure, compared to temperature. My car (1993 Volvo) and many others use an Air-Mass-Meter to feed data to the engine's CPU. Perhaps that could be a simple solution to measuring the input. Other engine management systems use slightly different metering systems. One of them would fit the purpose ideally.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Sept 22, 2017 3:41:00 GMT -8
Air speed is quite difficult to measure, compared to temperature. Probably it's enough to measure temperature change, probably in several locations, like bell and flue. Now I come to think about it: this could be a very nice way to control the thing by a small computer and a servo motor operated inlet, temperature and air speed are the only required data... Any takers?
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Feb 20, 2017 22:20:16 GMT -8
I have no idea what I'm looking at Back of the temperature sensor. Leads on the left are 12v power and on the right is the thermocouple. Looks like You are not lucky, this one does not seem to have any config options.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Feb 20, 2017 5:50:38 GMT -8
I also got a package from China. These are just simple temperature sensors I want to install to monitor how its running. The only problem is that I am an American and these sensors only display in Celsius. It might be easier to teach my dog to drive, but I'll try to adjust. The were really cheap, so I'm willing to give it a try. Sensor locations are going to be : 1. Top of the steel drum 2. Exhaust/flue 3. Far end of bench/bell If anyone has suggestions as to placement, I'm all ears! Open one, and check the board if there is an option to reconfigure it to Fahrenheit. Usually there is a way to do it, most probably a "solder jumper" where you have to add a tiny amount of solder across two very closely located pads, or remove one if it's already there. I've always had an directly opposite problem to solve. Yesterday I successfully measured the flue temperatures of a factory-built stove, DIEM Turbo No4. But I used a thermocouple, connected to my own programmed controller, which sent numbers directly to a server to graph it. Unfortunately, not rocket heater yet, may be another year.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Feb 1, 2017 6:28:49 GMT -8
has anyone tried the opposite kind of double vortex? Two narrow slots feed to riser, but center part is blocked, where reflected streams meet.
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