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Post by rhinokeegan on Dec 23, 2016 11:49:39 GMT -8
Hello everyone, I've been lurking here for a few weeks as I've been studying rocket heaters. I want to say a big THANK YOU to everyone here contributing such great information. I would like to build one for my 30 foot x 40 foot detached garage/work shop.
I started by buying the two popular books on the subject and reading them a couple of times. I've been through batchrocket.eu a number of times absorbing the information as best I can. Using the information provided there, I've started to design my own heater. I want to build the box out of fire bricks. There's a couple places in Minneapolis that stock fire bricks of differing sizes and shapes. They also sell vacuum molded riser tubes that I plan on using for the heat riser. I've attached a sketchup file of my design so far. I've tried to come as close to the 6" dimensions that Peter has listed, while keeping the brick cutting to a minimum. If anyone can suggest a way for attaching the door for the firebox, I would be great-full. I'd like to keep posting my progress of this project so I can get the input of everyone here. Thanks again! Keegan
Sketchup FileBrick shapes and dimenstions
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Post by rhinokeegan on Dec 24, 2016 12:40:14 GMT -8
Quick update: I scored a bunch of standard bricks on craigslist this morning. They are not fire bricks, but they should be fine for most of the structure and the price was right. Hopefully I'll have enough to build the main heater and a second bell.
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eng
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by eng on Dec 24, 2016 13:22:36 GMT -8
Good luck to your build. I like your sketch up skills. S.U. has defeated me. Perhaps old buggers are two impatient to learn new things. I also like the fact that you have read the 'Bible' and appear to have absorbed the lessons it holds. I wish it had been around when I build my first wood burner in the early 1970's. For your door think about burying 6 to 8 3/8" threaded rods between the front face brick joints. Say, about 12" long and use these to bolt an angle iron frame to the brick with ceramic fiber to seal the frame to the brick. Hang your door on the frame. The snow on your trailer would indicate that you need the burner yesterday.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Dec 24, 2016 19:22:51 GMT -8
For your door think about burying 6 to 8 3/8" threaded rods between the front face brick joints. Say, about 12" long and use these to bolt an angle iron frame to the brick with ceramic fiber to seal the frame to the brick. Hang your door on the frame. The snow on your trailer would indicate that you need the burner yesterday. Eng, Thanks for the advise. That method seems very logical and easy. And yes, here in Minnesota a rocket stove will be very welcome! If I'm successful in the garage, I've got plans for the house too.
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Post by peterberg on Dec 25, 2016 0:46:18 GMT -8
Hi Keegan, welcome to the boards. One obvious snag: the firebox walls are way to thick, too much mass in there. That outer skin should be placed apart and the space between those filled with perlite mixed with a little bit of clay and water to stabilize it.
And one possible snag: the top gap, between the riser end and the barrel should be quite a bit more than a few inches like in the J-tube recommended minima. The recommended top gap for a batch box is one foot, although this could be less. Since the gases need to go there through a change direction of 180 degrees the available space should be at the very least 200% of the riser"s csa. The batch box design is very picky about any friction in the gas path, best to avoid such a situation as the plague.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Dec 25, 2016 17:26:19 GMT -8
Hi Keegan, welcome to the boards. One obvious snag: the firebox walls are way to thick, too much mass in there. That outer skin should be placed apart and the space between those filled with perlite mixed with a little bit of clay and water to stabilize it. And one possible snag: the top gap, between the riser end and the barrel should be quite a bit more than a few inches like in the J-tube recommended minima. The recommended top gap for a batch box is one foot, although this could be less. Since the gases need to go there through a change direction of 180 degrees the available space should be at the very least 200% of the riser"s csa. The batch box design is very picky about any friction in the gas path, best to avoid such a situation as the plague. Hi Peter, Thanks so much for the advise! I didn't realize too much mass is a bad thing on the firebox. What if the walls were insulating fire brick (ISB) on the inside? I know they are easier to damage then the regular fire brick, but I would think they'd last for many years before needing to be replaced. My local fire brick supplier has a high density/high strength ISB rated for 2800 Fahrenheit (mean temp max of 2200 F) Regarding the riser gap to the barrel, I'll move it up a couple more inches in the model. It's at about 10.5 inches right now, so one more course of brick should bring it up enough for the recommended spacing. Thank you again for reviewing my design and for the help. Keegan
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Post by satamax on Dec 25, 2016 22:29:21 GMT -8
Rhinokeegan, it can be done that way. Just plan for future replacement. I wish i had make my 220mm one that way, or along those lines.
My best result so far, was with a 160mm, with the whole firebox lined with IFB.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Dec 26, 2016 8:02:26 GMT -8
Thanks Satamax
I'll follow your lead and make as much of the firebox out of IFB as I can.
Are your IFB dry fitted, or mortared in place?
I'll have to make sure the door frame is mounted in such a way that brick replacement is possible without too much destruction.
This weeks goal is to go get my first load of fire brick.
Keegan
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Post by satamax on Dec 26, 2016 9:17:47 GMT -8
Check my thread about the 220mm heat riser one. I like my firebox construction.
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Post by doughboydan32 on Dec 30, 2016 17:07:38 GMT -8
this is very cool stuff in here .
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 1, 2017 11:16:25 GMT -8
I picked up some fire brick and ordered the riser tubes. The tubes should be ready in a week or two.' In the meantime I'll be making some room for the new heater. And starting on the base for the firebox. Messy and cluttered at the moment (ok it's always like this) I think the heater will live in this corner. I've got to relocate the shelves on the back left wall. I don't think they'll handle the heat coming off of the steel drum too well. I'm planning on about 18 inches of space between the steel drum and the wall and I'd like to use some kind of reflector on the wall as well to push a little more radiant heat into the room. One step at a time.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 22, 2017 19:58:58 GMT -8
I got to start working on the heater today. Started with clearing out some space and getting rid of the overhead shelf. The bracket will come down too, but I need to adjust the mounts first. Starting with a base of masonry bricks and type s mortar. I've never done any masonry before, so the learning curve will be steep. Then I started to mock-up the fire brick. I'll wait for the first part to dry before starting with the refractory mortar and fire bricks. On a positive note, spending $5 on a mansonry blade at Menards was money well spent. I wheeled my junky radial arm saw outside and it makes short work of the hard fire brick! Super clean cut.
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Post by DCish on Jan 23, 2017 19:37:32 GMT -8
Keep the posts coming, I love watching a build come together!
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 23, 2017 22:04:13 GMT -8
Keep the posts coming, I love watching a build come together! Thanks for the encouragement! I'm hopeful to get it going before winter ends, but we'll see. I did get a little more done tonight. I started to set some of the hard fire brick in place with the mortar. I'm using Greenpatch 421 as recommended by my brick supplier. It's premixed and used right out of the bucket after mixing it up with large paint mixer. I also got the riser sleeves in the mail today! I got (4) 6 inch ID and (4) 8 inch ID sleeves. The idea is to nest the two together for a lightweight insulated riser. They'll need a little shaping to slip the one into the other, but I've been told by the supplier it can be done pretty easily.
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Post by ericaus on Jan 24, 2017 0:11:58 GMT -8
Thanks for sharing the pics and the build progress rhinokeegan. Looks pretty chilly outside!! Eric
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