kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 31, 2017 3:34:33 GMT -8
Excellent! So, the riser makes also first bell's rear wall? Or are there two layers of brick at the back? I would worry about cracking, as riser will get much hotter than other parts of the bell.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 30, 2017 23:43:15 GMT -8
I've seen briquettes for sale (with the 'RUF' stamping) that have been made from various things including sawdust, planings, woodchip and rather alarmingly, MDF! We have also briquettes made of peat moss and even pine bark. Peat moss briquettes burn slower, give huge amount of heat, but also a huge pile of ash, compared to ordinary, sawdust, briquettes.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 29, 2016 23:25:20 GMT -8
Can a long bench be routed so that chimney would be located near the burn chamber? If chimney is directly heated thru a thin common wall or so, that should help to increase the draft, even if exhaust gases are not warm enough to sustain a good draft by themselves.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 11, 2016 3:31:23 GMT -8
Doesn't it create trouble in batch box, when briquettes start to disintegrate and block air flow through them? I thought I need a different burn chamber, where air does not have to go through fuel, just above it. That way even plain saw dust could be burned there.
I was not going to build a cooking range, but just use that type of burn chamber, then build a bell of some kind above it. With intermediate secondary burn chamber in between, most probably.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 11, 2016 2:24:36 GMT -8
Residual heat in a workshop is required if there is something to dry overnight, like paint/varnish/glue. Common problem if working with wood.
I'm thinking about building some kind of similar barrel heater for a workshop, but would line inside of the lower barrel with bricks. Another approach could be to replace lower barrel with a brick construction altogether. But I'm still looking for the best burn chamber, to burn stuff like sawdust briquettes, as those are cheap. Looks like classic batch box would not work well with them. Probably some iteration of Vortex stove?
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 11, 2016 1:51:37 GMT -8
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Oct 7, 2016 0:52:48 GMT -8
Just a small remark. Sinthome, it's been done to a certain extent. Check Vortex's stove. Matt Walker riserless build. My conversion of a range. Hendrik's build donkey32.proboards.com/post/16159/thread And many others. I have drawn a few in sketchup, to get my ideas sorted too. You are mentioning several builds, which are really not easy to find! I remember reading about several of those, but those really should have been "pinned" at the top of forum. Sometimes thread topic contains something completely different, and particular stove is never called the name which is given to it later by others.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 14, 2016 5:31:14 GMT -8
You can, but in this case you need to read a temperature quite far away from the flap you need to close. I'm not sure chimney temperature would be good parameter to use. Bimetal spring would be easy then.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 14, 2016 4:53:27 GMT -8
By the way, would a batchbox be suitable to burn briquettes, made from pressed sawdust? Most common are about size of half brick. There are long briquettes - like a log - also - but those are much more expensive. Cheapest ones are made from pine sawdust, as it's what is mostly growing here. Birch is a bit better, but more expensive too. Briquettes start to disintegrate after a while, so air would not go through them, as required for batchbox. Would this be a problem? I do not remember who's design it was, where cooking stove had an ordinary-looking firebox, with narrow exit in the ceiling, just above the door. That design does not need the air to go through the fuel. Would that kind work better with briquettes? I'm more interested in slow burn than dumping a lot of energy at once, as there is not a lot of heat mass available. Edit: I was talking about this design, by Vortex: donkey32.proboards.com/thread/703/vortex-stove
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 14, 2016 4:36:31 GMT -8
For thermostat you'd need the sensor to be located under the firebox floor, so it could detect when burning is really ended. It would need some delay too, but firebox floor would provide some delay by itself because of heat mass. It should be easy to build for anybody who is familiar with electronics, nothing really difficult. Would need to place a K-type thermocouple in the stove though, and get the wiring out.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 12, 2016 0:09:26 GMT -8
I have some pics of my own pizza-baking contraption from last summer. Inside built from some old firebricks, surrounded by cheap 10cm thick blocks which have ceramic pebbles as insulator (we call it keramzit here). Those hold up the heat quite well. It was quite easy to overheat inside over 400 degrees C, so i had to let it cool down before actual baking, and I never detected outside temps above 60 degrees. Those 3cm thick plates are corundum, which I had laying around, those came from old ceramic kilns my father built or repaired years ago. They are extremely difficult to cut even with diamond blade. Seams were filled with high-temp clay, mixed with sand and some glass wool fibers. Those seem to help avoid cracking. Added chunks of wool, covered with same clay, to fill where bricks did not fit properly, or had broken off bigger pieces. Inside is 44cm wide IIRC, and abit deeper than that, and the far end is a bit deeper, hot coals can sit there. Look for the files marked as 2015 here: www.dropbox.com/sh/tpafhwvy1sb6v46/AAAcBtsK91JC6wgvql-Q-yH8a?dl=0Dropbox sometimes throws a dialog, asking to log in, that should be just closed, it will show files anyway.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Jan 4, 2016 5:12:19 GMT -8
Can that EGR be sucked from below the batch box? That way, one could build a simple batch box with exhaust to chimney above the batch box (So it's always warm enough not to stall) but EGR sucking would cause enough gas movement below, to heat up the mass, located there. I'm a bit afraid to make the chimney exit down there, as the only chimney I can use would be about 2 meters of tin tube.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 14, 2014 2:09:28 GMT -8
Seems like downdraft burning means it's the lowest part of load that is actually burning, so adding more fuel during the burn affects the burn less.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 2, 2014 23:30:47 GMT -8
Yes, I had seen that trick, but this particular setup did not require that.
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kpl
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Post by kpl on Nov 2, 2014 22:28:35 GMT -8
If you want to film what's going on in a heat riser, use a miror. That was visible well enough, but there was no way to film what's happening in the firebox. Features mentioned in that russian forum look interesting enough, probably I can get better mixing if that step in a riser is more pronounced. Will check that forum as well, fortunately language is not a problem. Has anyone seen their "ancient aryan stove" mentioned elsewhere, or is it just another misinterpretation, as is usual in russia-based sites?
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