Starting the next build. 220mm batch rocket, double bell.

[satamax]

Thanks a lot Mkrepel. Well, there is rather deep fins below. So it is not so easy.

[mkrepel]

Max,

That's too bad. It would be a shame to cut the fins off. I am sure they help stiffen the assembly against warping and enhance the the heat transfer. it will probably be pretty tough to maintain a seal with more rigid sealants like hardened clay or fire cement. The iron will no doubt expand and contract more than the bricks and clay.

[esbjornaneer]

Max, Do you feel like posting a pic of the underneath so it is possible to see how bad it is. I have been using 10mm fire rope as my seal between metal and brick. It is successful as long as there is enough weight in the metal.

[satamax]

Hi everybody.

Well, did some improvements. I reinforced the cracked air entrained concrete side pannel with a botchy job of firebricks.



I made the slants out of insulating firebrick that i had.



The bottom refractory plate was not cracked, i moved it, and the AAC underneath was cracked a bit. But in good shape i find.

Modified the door closing from bricl leaning against it, to shutter stop type

Added some fabric joint to the top of the door. And to the top door. No more smoking badly on startups.

First time i lit it, the bottom refractory slab cracked.

I did a hole in the chimney, about 150cm above the ground, may be 110 above the top of the bell's exit. I get 74C° sustained during the first burn. Still looking for a proper top plate.

[independentenergy]

Max wanted to ask you something.
the use of that pipe for the riser created you problems? I can find them easily but I do not know if they fit.
is a short riser or standard length?

[satamax]

Andrea, those work nicely. I've been lighting the stove again for a few days. The cracks are still the same. The heat riser is 150cm high, instead of the 156 required iirc. I have used 3 elements. The stove is smokeless in 5 minutes, may be less. Depends on how i light it. If you can buy some, please tell me what brand. As Landini seems to have discontinued those. I have some "tona" and i think i have used some "schiedel" too.

HTH.

Max.

[independentenergy]

thanks max.
near my house there is a construction warehouse that sells them.
If you cut lengthwise like two shells maybe he does not break.
you used clay bricks for the bell?
how they behave?
They are linked by refractory mortar? excuse the many questions but I have difficulties to find refractory materials and so if you can use normal bricks is good news, in addition to weight savings

[satamax]

Ciao Andrea. I have done only one cut lenghwise, as i didn't want to hold the halves with wire.

I used a home heating fuel tank for the bell, covered with those bricks

gagnimmo.free.fr/pointstechniques/brique-alveole.jpg

Filled with normal mortar. But the inner surface of bricks is not exposed. Just the metal.

You can see it here, half covered.

img11.hostingpics.net/pics/236644WP001602.jpg Tho, i would put less mass in thickness now. And stick the bricks against the metal i think.

[independentenergy]

Ciao max.
you had not noticed that picture, you can clearly see the metal bell and brick cover.
I have however noticed that the core is isolated with ytong, also I have used them.
if I understand your flue temperature is about 70 degrees.
I just have a bit of time some ideas for vertical batch.
I'm thinking of some solutions I would try many things but time is short as always.
you did experiments on vertical batch?
if you want, even in private, so as not to go off topic
thank you

[satamax]

I haven't realy tried anything yet. But this one has a cooking plate on top, as you can see, which will get removed whenever i find the right piece of thick steel or cast iron, and i think i will add hinges and a handle to that top. So it will be top loading horizontal batch.

Otherwise, i haven't managed anything on that front.

But if you want to contribute, here's the thread i had started.

donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1803/peter-vertical-batch?page=2#page=1

[independentenergy]

the design of your stove permits,
worth trying. once I get time I will try to do experiment.

[satamax]

Well, a new discovery of few days. I have this chimney damper, right at the end of the Bell. Which might let 20% of the gases through. I can run the stove with seemingly no ill effect, with the damper closed, when it's real cold outside. Keeping more heat un the Bell.

[Vortex]

I have to turn mine to 45 degrees before it has any effect.
I'm surprised how few people use them. They're great for reducing heat loss from the mass via the chimney once the burn is over, and also for controlling the draw on a windy day.

[peterberg]

I don't have a chimney damper, controlling the draft on a windy day is done exclusively by air inlet. My heater door is very close to 100% airtight so this is no problem. Operating a damper is dangerous during the burn is my opinion, this also goes for glowing phase.

[satamax]

Thanks for teh replies guys.

Peter, i know it can be dangerous. Tho, my heater is made of recuperated parts, and the door is not airtight. I fited this damper, which was part of the firebox of a fireplace insert. It can't close completely. So the risk is lessened. I think the rule in France is 20% of the area should still be open, when the damper is closed. I'll see what i can do to the door, one of those days.