If ever i feel like it, i'll check way back machine, and re post the permies ones, in the right post. But that would take forever!
Well, gathered some materials in the happy chappy thread. Now i'm starting to use thoses.
This is going to be the second bell at 6.35m² of isa. Will be covered in recovered bricks. From the inner wall that i have smashed up. Thoses bricks are hollow, and will be filled with concrete.
I'm wondering if i should put a bypass from this bell to the chimney, on top. Or if i should do it in the first bell. System size gonna be 22cm. This vane is 25cm diameter. But it gonna feed into a 20cm chimney. Tho, that chimney is square'ish. I hope everything will be all right.
Parts are going to be extremely tight!
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2018 12:56:03 GMT -8 by satamax
This is a cross between my two systems, the current one, and the future one.
Can you imagine a 18cm square heat riser. With a weird shape uninsulated batch box, and V bottom secondary air. Running a 8.21 ISA all metal double bell?
Here it is!
I'll post the same message in the other post about my new build!
You just can't immagine how chuffed i am. That exceeds previsions. A 7 incher, supposedely could cope with may be 8m² of massonry single bell. Here i'm in double bell mode, with all bare metal arangement.
Madness, i tell you/
About 8m high chimney. And 20x20 sqare with rounded corners.
Fired it again tonight, and it was temperamental, for a little while, the stove would pulse slowly, like the J tubes when they are restricted, sucking the flame, then smoking back a tiny bit, then sucking the flame again, and so on. When the second bell was hot enough and the chimney too, it ran fine.
Just in the past 7 months it became clear the figures for the bell sizes weren't correct. My own cast refractory 6"/150 mm batch box single bell system is brought back from 5.4 m2 to 5 m2 and now it is finally willing to start up every time without a hitch. End temperature when started warm, last firing 12 hours ago, is between 80 and 90 degrees Celsius. We don't employ a bypass and since downscaling we don't prime the chimney anymore. Incidentally, the barrel tower in my former workshop happened to be the same size but was all metal. This suggest the difference between a brick bell and stacked barrels aren't that large, heat extraction-wise.
Together with the experience at the MHA meeting it's likely the size of a single bell for an 8"/200 mm system would be a notch less than 9 m2. Extrapolating that to a 180 mm system the top ISA for this would be 7.15 m2. So I would say your shop heater is oversized and is in need of a bypass. Probably you are getting away with it due the long straight chimney?
As a rule of thumb, I would say take 5m2 as the base and work out the rest according to the csa of the respective riser.
By the way, it might be getting even stranger. In Montana last week I've built a 4" Dragon Heater core into a 55 gallon drum. With the drum inside bare, it ran just fine although the vertical stack temp was a bit low. The next day we lifted the lid and stacked ordinairy red bricks on edge inside the barrel. When run, the whole system wasn't happy because the stack didn't warm up to something over handwarm. So the bricks were extracting more heat than the bare barrel, despite the fact the inside ISA of the brick liner was smaller.
Same thing with a 4" batch box system built into a salvage drum of 110 gallon. Ran OK with the bare metal and was unwilling to come up to temp with an inside liner of red bricks on flat. To make a long story short: Both were brought back to reason with a 100x5 mm/4"x 1/4" vertical slit in the stack which was inside the barrel just under the lid. Oh yes, the vertical stack didn't sport an elbow, instead it started 6" above the bottom inside the barrel and protuded vertically out of the lid next to the rim. Both of those set ups were attempts to create a small housing mass heater. Could be cooked on top as well.
Last Edit: Oct 21, 2015 12:20:54 GMT -8 by peterberg
This thing will have all the bells and whistles to make it work fine. There's only one thing which bugs me, the chimney elements in pozzolan concrete cools down very fast. I think, since this side will be un accessable when the bell is covered in bricks. That i gonna fill all around the chimney with concrete and stones, and leave a door on that chimney, to to the sweeping. Which will serve as season start priming. I have another thing which buggs me actualy, i'm under the impression that the bell gets bypassed a bit by the gases. It doesn't get hot very fast. I might build a little "kicktail" wall in the bell. with bricks.
I need your expertise, or expertise from the others, What kind of gap should i leave between bricks and metal? Can i use thick corugated cardboard to achieve that gap, and pull it or let it burn before closing the top?
The core will be 220mm after. I won't keep this 7 incher. Not powerfull enough for the whole nearly uninsulated workshop.
I can't remember, what is the guesstimate for power?
3kw gathered, for 1kg of wood? I think i can stuff in the 60 liters of the future firebox, something like 30 kilos of wood. 90kw! That's a monster I might be completely off!
I'm still on the lookout for a door / top plate, to close the top of the future first bell. As i can't assemble the riser first and lower the bell on top. Something like the little door on the second bell, but bigger would be good. Enough to lower two 60l barrels to hold the insulation. As they seem near perfect for this aplication. The 220mm flue elements being 265 on the outside. And thoses barrels iirc are 37cm od.
I will be completely short in ways of mass i think. 3.41 tons, may be! if the mix of low cement concrete, sand and brick can reach 2.4t a cubic metre.I can put a bit more around the pipes. I will have the firebox's base too and the first bell's top too. But nothing fantastic! If i could get a flywheel of two cold days, it would be better!
Btw, i'll top the firebox with a little 35x40 cast iron plate to boil the tea
Last Edit: Oct 21, 2015 13:24:45 GMT -8 by satamax
Im trying to remember where I read about someone using corrigated card board to make an expansion gap around a heavy gauge metal riser surrounded by insulating concrete, or cob, not sure. as I recall, they just left the card in their, figured it wasnt doing any harm, or possably helped with some insulation value. I think they covered the card with a reasonably thin layer of plaster/clay or something, then let that harden, to prevent it from getting saturated and crushed by the big mix. sorry I cant be more helpful. donkey would know what to do
maartenmartens: beste Peter, ik heb je eergisteren een mail gestuurd via het contact formulier op je website , heb je die goed ontvangen ? mvg Maarten Martens, architect - geobioloog (mail betreffende de bouw van onze eigen RMH)
Jun 20, 2018 13:21:57 GMT -8
martinm: any one here with info \ experience with heat (from a mass heater) distribution with ducts throughout two storey house ?
Sept 8, 2018 22:58:52 GMT -8
padica: Good morning, this is a wonderful subject, please someone can help me with the theme of double and triple combustion, how it is achieved, theory and design, thank you
Sept 15, 2018 7:13:40 GMT -8
wiscojames: I'm afraid you won't get a response to such a vague question - I suggest reading through some of the threads related to your questions before asking for an explanation. People will be very generous with their knowledge if your question is more specific.
Sept 18, 2018 4:48:00 GMT -8
daniel: in my experience as I am working now on something of that nature, I have thought of making a heat exchanger and distributing the heat through vents using a slower fan. Now after a few years I realize that mass heaters give out primarily radiant heat, for
Nov 30, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place...
Dec 16, 2018 18:10:49 GMT -8
vesuvius: High Temperature Glass options,
Jan 4, 2019 16:28:17 GMT -8
vesuvius: Do any of you have experience with using the glass from home oven doors on a rocket stove? I'd like to have a viewing port on my stove but don't want to fork out for new ceramic glass. Any thought as to whether it would take the heat of a rocket stove?
Jan 4, 2019 16:30:40 GMT -8
yaya: you dont need the blowair for that temp..
Jan 13, 2019 16:43:57 GMT -8
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: Anyone posting in this shout box... if you have something you want people to see and respond to, create a thread in the appropriate forum section... this is not the place to have a discussion... it is for short announcements
Feb 7, 2019 0:11:23 GMT -8
coastalrocketeer: you won’t likely get replies to questions here, and it is not a spot that makes holding an ongoing discussion possible...
Feb 7, 2019 0:12:22 GMT -8
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
michaelegan: i am unable to open the sketchup files on my mac. I used sketchup a few years back but apparently the company now requires a subscription. does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to use the program or how to view pictures without spending money?
Aug 20, 2019 18:41:48 GMT -8
mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
Aug 23, 2019 13:33:44 GMT -8
topbaza: hi everyone, been searching all over net and this is were i need to be i think!!
Sept 28, 2019 6:16:25 GMT -8
anounaki: Hi, why I cant upload photos when I make new tread to this forum?
Feb 28, 2020 2:09:40 GMT -8