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Post by satamax on Nov 21, 2015 21:53:27 GMT -8
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Post by Daryl on Nov 23, 2015 3:18:48 GMT -8
Whatcha cookin'?
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Post by satamax on Nov 23, 2015 11:32:30 GMT -8
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Post by satamax on Nov 24, 2015 12:21:51 GMT -8
No smoke overloading!  |
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Post by satamax on Nov 25, 2015 12:12:27 GMT -8
Well, i'm under the impression that i have failed.
I've never managed to get the mass above 34C° on the surface. I was hoping for more. More flywheel too. I mean, if i burn 3 loads, i still have 20C° on the surface 15/20 hours later. But that's not much imho.
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wibo
New Member
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Post by wibo on Nov 25, 2015 13:10:43 GMT -8
If it's about heating the mass to a certain temperature, you might not have reached your goal.. The question is if the room is nice and comfortable... That is the main goal for installing a heating system, I would say?
That, and it's been an interesting thread so far!
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Nov 25, 2015 14:45:19 GMT -8
Failed is being a bit harsh on yourself. No-one else has tried this combination so you are in unchartered waters. As I see it, it could be any one or more of the following factors: - Double bell
- The heat isn't in direct contact with the mass - it has to pass through the steel first
- The external mass is too thick - the bricks you filled with concrete look like they could be over 150mm thick.
- The area you are heating is too large to feel the benefit. An large un-insulated and draughty workshop is difficult to keep warm even with a diesel space heater
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Post by patamos on Nov 25, 2015 20:03:52 GMT -8
So long as your exit stack temperature is within reason, say 60 to 80c… the wood is being well combusted and the heat is beings well harvested.
Maybe a longer flywheel than was anticipated… but it sure looks like it is working otherwise.
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eng
New Member
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Post by eng on Nov 27, 2015 0:10:42 GMT -8
Your workshop looks as interesting as your stove. To me the mass you have created around the fire and flues is huge in relation to the the size of the fire.
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Post by Daryl on Nov 27, 2015 11:13:05 GMT -8
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Post by satamax on Nov 27, 2015 14:54:13 GMT -8
Your workshop looks as interesting as your stove. To me the mass you have created around the fire and flues is huge in relation to the the size of the fire. Well, workshop wise. In euroland, we tend to keep the good old cast iron machines. There's nothing much like Jet delta or Grizzly. Our gear is far touther. Exept the more modern machines. Since may be 20 years. Hey Luvley. That's just what the life used to be in the old days. To me , a gal who'se able to kiil a duck and strip it, is more actractive, than a pimped up useless maiden! |
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Post by woodburner on Jan 1, 2016 4:10:57 GMT -8
But i have a problem. The air entrained concrete slab on the left when looking at the firebox, has cracked.  I might have to build a wall there. Not good! And the right hand side refractory slab cracked too. Mind you, that's far easier to cure, as it is normal and expected. My guess is that it is because the slab is large. If it was smaller blocks assembled with clay slip joints it would be able to move without setting up the stresses that cause cracks within the blocks. This would morph into the wall you mentioned, though air entrained concrete could still be used. |
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Post by satamax on May 28, 2016 11:21:01 GMT -8
Well, update. I haven't burned for the last fortnight or so. It became temperamental lately, due to the mass and chimney being colder than the outside world. I was burning once in three days or so. So that's not that good. It would be cool to have a bypass. Too late! Works all right. Kept 8C° as a minimum, when we had -17C° outside. With barely no insulation. In a 113m² workshop. I think i gonna do the next one massonry, for the first bell, and a metal radiator later in the exhaust line. I think it's a bit underpowered for such a big building. Tho, when the flat above is closed, and the north and west walls are insulated, it should be better. I broke the window lately. So i fidled about for a while. Discovered that top air is no good. Air entering at the bottom of the firebox works far better. I don't feel my burn is as good as it could be. Lots of ashes. But i clearly admit, i need better firewood. Not all larch and pine slabs. |
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Post by satamax on Jul 29, 2016 2:56:02 GMT -8
Hi everybody.
Well, i want to change the small cast iron plate on top, for a larger one.
I have a scavenged range top, which could fit. But the bottom is not flat.
how would you fit it on the concrete and firebricks that i have? Any idea? A sort of refractory grout, set the plte in, and fire the stove. So the metal ledges and fins find their space. It will always move, that's for sure. So i need to accomodate for this.
Whatcha think?
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Post by mkrepel on Aug 14, 2016 20:38:44 GMT -8
I saw somewhere someone set a piece of metal directly over their bricks with some ceramic wool between them. It seemed to seal well enough and allowed the two components to expand/contract at their own rates.
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I might have to build a wall there. Not good! And the right hand side refractory slab cracked too. Mind you, that's far easier to cure, as it is normal and expected.