Post by esbjornaneer on Oct 30, 2015 12:00:45 GMT -8
Cool that you are building right now too! I see you quoting in Euros... I hope you do not mind me asking where you are? I am building in southern Spain (1200m elevation). Great to see your progress!
I would leave an air gap ~5-10cm between any wall and the stove. And ideally insulate the wall of the stove too if it is towards an exterior wall. If you have to fill the gap you have between your wall and the stove I would go for something insulating if it is an exterior wall (sand of the options you gave) and concrete/cob or simmilar if you want to conduct the heat into the wall.
Your system is looking good. Esbjorn ps hope you like the edited version of the post.
Last Edit: Oct 31, 2015 12:17:51 GMT -8 by esbjornaneer: requested by thread originator
Esbjornaneer, i'm in southern france, in the alps, right by the italian border at 1500m of altitude. It would be very nice if you edited your message, and get a thread of your own, for the clarity of the thread. Thanks.
Last Edit: Oct 31, 2015 12:14:11 GMT -8 by satamax
Nice looking build you have going there Satamax. Is there not an expansion joint/gap between refractory firebox elements and the masonry side blocks? Maybe the photo doesn't show it, but normally there is left a small air-gap (about 3/16 to 1/4 inch) or the gap stuffed with similar thickness of ceramic fiber sheet material. Or maybe the expansion gap will be made automatically with the first firing?
Looking forward the the performance report of your new system.
Byron, i've left about 3mm each side. But will see how it handles heat.
I forgot to say, this thing draws like mad. I have 10.6m² of isa, plus the surface of the tube, which might be another m², and no hint of stalling with temp difference between outside and inside of about 5C° maximum in yesterday's try. Also, all joints are not tight yet. The door isn't, the side tank filling cap, which i've kept was also leaky, and the hole around the down pipe was not tight either.
Thanks a lot Trev. Well, it's a monster, i've already overloaded it today. Top window is all black. It's soo cool to see the flame out of the heat riser through that window. Now i'll have to clean It's a shame i won't be able to do anything till next weekend, i think. Real life gets in the way!
Guys and gals, Usualy in France, the gap between wood and chimney flues has to be 18cm. Seven inches or so. Would you think i could raise my top mass that close to the beams, or i risk scorching thoses? The more mass, the better realy.
Esbjorn, this is an interior wall, and i was hoping it would conduct a bit of heat to the other side! Nope, not working!
Last Edit: Oct 31, 2015 12:24:24 GMT -8 by satamax
Duh, the first bell burns skin! I was stuffing old firebricks between the two bells, dry stacked. I had gloves, but the sleeve on my left arm got caught on the corner, and rose up my arm. I touched the bare metal. Ouch that stings.
So, a little update. Since it snowed, and i couldn't do much workwise. I've stuffed more bricks in between the two bells today. And capped the first bell with two of the outer flue ellements. Filled with concrete and rocks. It's 265 kg more. so the whole contraption now weights more than 1300kg of mass, plus bits and bobs in metal.
My bottom part between second bell and firebox is warming up a smidge. I left a tube of cold acrylic caulking on top, and when i picked it up, i could feel the moisture which had condensated on the tube. Not dry yet!
I used a piece of air entrained concrete as a temporary top. Well, few days later, it has cracked. So now we know for sure, that air entrained concrete can't be even slightly structural in the firebox. I will repport, when i dismantle it, and check for strengh, with a screwdriver or something. I might look into cutting a cast iron top tomorow. I realy want to know if i can boil tea with this!
Ahhh, i forgot, there's a "party trick" i love to do with it. Open the top window, and tell people, do you see any smoke? Or even smell burning wood?
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
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jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
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deadstarsstillburn: Hi there. I was directed this way by folks on the Permies.com website and am hoping I can get some information on how a total newbie can get started designing, siting, building, and not-dying-in-a-horrible-house-fire with a new RMH in a 160-year old home
Oct 21, 2020 6:52:10 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: The people over there recommended either a 6" batchbox or an 8" J-tube. I don't know what those are but am going to try to figure that out. What I need is a blueprint that I can scale to fit the need for my house. I have something likne 5000 square feet
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:00 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: but I do not need to heat all of it by any means. probably only need to heat half of that, maybe less.
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:15 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: moreover, the house has 3 storeys (large attic) so I assume if I get very efficient heating on the ground floor, that will go a long way toward heating the upstairs as well, no?
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:59 GMT -8