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Post by pinhead on Jan 4, 2019 12:24:44 GMT -8
Yes, I'm still using my original 5 Minute Riser without any issue. I lit the stove the day before yesterday from cold and it worked as well as the day I built it.
The blanket is drastically out-lasting the mortar around the firebox port.
My PBB is a 6-inch version using 1" of blanket inside an 8" stovepipe. I regularly burn Osage Orange splits which is the hottest burning wood I've ever encountered.
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Post by pinhead on Dec 21, 2018 6:34:31 GMT -8
The J-tube-T-tube combination (feeding fuel from the top in a closed/lidded chamber with air coming in below) does not work. Never has worked. Will not work.
The fuel "bin" simply turns into a small bell in which heat gets trapped, allowing all of the fuel to ignite and SMOKE. Every time you open the lid it will let smoke (and likely flame) into the room.
It doesn't work. Don't do it.
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Post by pinhead on Dec 11, 2018 5:58:42 GMT -8
You can greatly simplify the design by eliminating the inside wall and putting the chimney exit near the floor. This will form a "bell" which is much more efficient at both heat extraction as well as mass flow.
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Post by pinhead on Nov 30, 2018 6:20:05 GMT -8
Ok thank you, although I did not realise clay and sand would actually stick to the brick once it is heated and dried out? In the wood oven or pizza oven world we use something called “home brew” this is a mix of sand, clay, portland cement and lime. The mx is 3 1 1 1 and it works extreamly well for that use. You'd be amazed as to how well clay/sand sticks to bricks - without the cement. I add ash to mine to make it even more sticky (and more heat tolerant).
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Post by pinhead on Nov 26, 2018 13:02:42 GMT -8
Check my signature for a relatively cheap and super simple riser...
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Post by pinhead on Nov 13, 2018 8:49:20 GMT -8
I submit my theory as to why the "early CO spike" isn't present in this configuration. My theory is based upon my experiments with riser length combined with your statement:
From my experience, a taller riser induces more draft earlier in the burn, before the chimney has a chance to induce draft - even at the very beginning when the burn is just starting. This "fans the flames" early on, drawing oxygen over the fire at a point where the temperature isn't high enough to burn the CO.
With the DSR2 configuration, the riser is mostly eliminated and thus the majority of the draft is induced by the chimney - which effects draft much later in the burn.
I expect if you were to add a riser "stub" above the "outlet" of your DSR2, the CO "spike" at the beginning of the burn would return, along with easier starting.
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Post by pinhead on Nov 12, 2018 14:10:08 GMT -8
Very nice looking construction! I like the view of the fire with the door on the side of the firebox.
Does the primary air flow from left-to-right across the wood as in a standard PvdB Batch Box?
I second the question with regards to the riser.
And how did you implement the roof of the primary bell?
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Post by pinhead on Nov 1, 2018 7:45:25 GMT -8
I'm confused... This doesn't look like any "rocket core" I've ever seen.
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Post by pinhead on Oct 25, 2018 11:46:27 GMT -8
What is the temp you'll be seeing in that spot? Is it above the riser? If not above the riser, you can span it with clay-sand-ash-straw (cob) as long as it has sufficient support while it dries. In my next one I'll be using material such as this to prevent cracking and to strengthen the cob in general:
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Post by pinhead on Sept 24, 2018 6:52:12 GMT -8
WARNING!
This site was blocked due to Ransomware threat!
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Post by pinhead on Sept 11, 2018 10:13:14 GMT -8
Mine is still going strong without any visible degradation, though I haven't had to light it yet this season.
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Post by pinhead on Sept 6, 2018 12:32:11 GMT -8
I echo matthewwalker's sentiments; I'd be less worried about the bell and chimney getting dirty than I would about the thing exploding.
I had an early test stove literally explode (sending the barrel careening into the ceiling) when the draft was strong enough for flame to reach the smoke-filled bell.
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Post by pinhead on Jul 31, 2018 11:23:39 GMT -8
In my stoves, the clay-sand-ash mortar has held up wonderfully between the bricks in the firebox and in the body of the bell.
As a monolithic form in the throat of a batch box, OTOH, it hasn't fared nearly as well.
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Post by pinhead on Jul 31, 2018 8:09:21 GMT -8
To expand on Peter's explanation, I have done similar - and have burned for upwards of 12 to 14 hours at a time during the peak of winter.
After the firebox is good and hot - and I mean scorching hot - I can load a huge hardwood log that will barely fit through the door and put a few small splits in the top two corners. At that firebox temp the splits will spontaneously light off, providing flame on all four corners of the log which will burn cleanly for a number of hours by itself.
This presupposes an extremely hot firebox - to the point that often-times the bark on the log will be lit before I even lower it into place on top of the coals. The ends of splits will likewise start off before I get them fully loaded.
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Post by pinhead on Jul 30, 2018 9:18:44 GMT -8
My wife and daughter have been visiting the in-laws for the past week so I've had to rely on phone videos to keep me company. There's no sound in the world like the sound of a laughing baby. This is the sound of heaven: bit.ly/Baby-Laugh
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