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Post by Orange on Oct 5, 2017 11:32:18 GMT -8
I wasn't precise - metal for outer lining of heat riser, just to hold perlite.
The riser is of course made out of refractory. Top of the riser is sealed so gases do not enter perlite section.
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Post by Orange on Oct 4, 2017 12:42:41 GMT -8
The ceramic fiber blanket and board I've seen is rated to withstand regular use at 2300 or 2600C... It is used in pottery kilns that regularly attain these temps... And doesn't break down until at least 3000C. You may be thinking of rock wool/roxul insulation. sorry, i was just looking at the first type on wikipedia, AES wool. other types can take the heat.
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Post by Orange on Oct 4, 2017 12:39:49 GMT -8
Loose perlite will work if you have a liner that will stay solid through the extreme heat over time... Otherwise loose perlite will follow gravity... sure, all you need a cheap metal liner and pour in the perlite - easy work, great insulation, lightweight, disassemble
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Post by Orange on Oct 4, 2017 12:32:05 GMT -8
Thanks for this thread. Very easy to follow. My contribution is can the floor channel (to replace the P channel) be simply a channel, no metal, with a fire brick cut out to provide a protected exit for the air. That way maintenance should very infrequent replacement of the air exit fire brick "upright". Any thoughts on that suggestion? I want to remove metal from the inside system completely hence the question I built a secondary air channel into layers of ceramic fiber board underlying the firebrick splits forming the floor of my firebox, but it still terminates in metal tubing. Isn't the classic P-channel better than the "sidewinder type" because it is positioned higher and draws hotter air and it is easier to make?
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Post by Orange on Oct 4, 2017 12:28:24 GMT -8
The fireclay pipes will crack due to uneven heating, the vermiculite board won't survive very long in the hottest part opposite the port. thanks man, I've never heard this info before!
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Post by Orange on Oct 4, 2017 12:25:17 GMT -8
here is the magnezite composition if it helps: 85 - 88 MgO 4 - 6 SiO2 1 - 2 CaO 1 - 2 Al2O3 4 - 5 Fe2O3 if the gasses destroy magnezite, then the second best idea would be to put aluminium or steel plate and magnezite bricks ontop like this:
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 11:36:22 GMT -8
hmm.. the spreadsheet says for 150mm system p-channel should be 54x16mm
but the website says "in this 150 mm (6") system a rectangular duct of 60x20x2 mm (2.36"x 0.8 " x 0.08") is being used."
I guess it's not a big difference and it's easier to buy 60x20x2 steel.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 8:39:56 GMT -8
great job man! I like how you turned bench into bell.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 6:32:48 GMT -8
for the riser, it's probably easier just to buy fireclay pipes (at least here in Europe)instead of cutting the bricks. Or make one out of vermiculite board.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 6:23:26 GMT -8
great site, thanks for the work!
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 5:55:16 GMT -8
what about putting baking oven on a riser, when needed? top of the riser is hot so all what would be needed is a large bowl on top, probably with reflective surface inside and some insulation outside.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 5:16:22 GMT -8
if there are air gaps the heat won't transfer properly. I think magnetite brick are the best for the bench or bell because they have both high - heat transfer (6 W/mK) and heat capacity. so I planned to use them directly for flue tunnel (instead of red bricks) which would result in much faster bench warming.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 3:13:37 GMT -8
Great vid Matt Aren't you concerned about aluminum foil peeling? Will you add secondary air?
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 2:26:00 GMT -8
how about classic steel from old ovens? you have easy openings for inspection and cleaning.
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Post by Orange on Oct 1, 2017 2:14:27 GMT -8
why don't we use solo perlite, like in the portable rockets?
the safe options are liapor and vermiculite.
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