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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 30, 2017 7:34:20 GMT -8
If i may say, fill your bricks. More mass, and no convection in the wall. I have a convection problem on my workshop monster. On the wall i laid it against. All the heat goes up and doesn't fill the mass evenly. Thanks for the heads up on the bricks. I've been cramming the mortar in the holes when laying the next course. I'll pay more attention to that as you can't do it later
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 30, 2017 7:38:52 GMT -8
Just now I spotted a snag. The exhaust opening is in a corner so at one side the gases are blocked. As I see it, it's also quite close to the riser so there's even less space. If you insist to place the exhaust there, it would be best to use a much larger exit pipe, flush with the bricks. An 8" to 6" reducer is a possibility to solve this. Mr. Berg, thanks so much! I'll be resolving this problem soon! I went out this morning and knocked it apart as the mortar hadn't fully hardened overnight in the cold garage.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 31, 2017 21:46:31 GMT -8
Got the 8" adapter installed along with another course of bricks. Thanks again Peter!
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 5, 2017 18:54:06 GMT -8
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Feb 6, 2017 6:54:59 GMT -8
Yeah, getting the kids involved! Keep posting photos.
How was shaping the inner riser to fit into the outer riser?
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 6, 2017 7:15:04 GMT -8
How was shaping the inner riser to fit into the outer riser? It was pretty easy. I used a pneumatic random orbit sander to smooth and shape the outside of the inner sleeves just enough to slide inside of the outer sleeves. You could sand it by hand too, it would just take a little longer. I used some rigidizer when joining the two sleeves together and it acts as an adhesive. I also used the rigidizer on the fresh cutout section to fit the firebox. I'm thinking of using the Greenpatch 421 mortar to stick the riser to the firebox. Any thoughts?
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Feb 8, 2017 10:47:55 GMT -8
I know nothing about that mortar, but its all going to crack as it heats up and cools down each time you fire it. I'd just band it together to the main body with some steel straps and just use the mortar to make the joints more air tight.
I don't believe the mortar is going to give much strength to the build due to its configuration...
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Post by pianomark on Feb 8, 2017 14:44:32 GMT -8
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, better strap or block those riser tubes up against the firebox so they can't move. Just don't do anything that blocks the free gas flow to the outlet manifold.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 9, 2017 12:43:40 GMT -8
I'll take your advise and use some stainless wire or strapping to hold the riser in place. Maybe sink some smaller screw anchors in the brick to attach the wire. I'll also add the mortar. Couldn't hurt.
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Feb 10, 2017 2:47:56 GMT -8
You can build the wire/strapping right into the next layer of mortar in your bricks. Instead of trying to tap a brick and chance splitting it. Is the top of your stove going to be masonry or a barrel?
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 17, 2017 7:57:39 GMT -8
You can build the wire/strapping right into the next layer of mortar in your bricks. Instead of trying to tap a brick and chance splitting it. Is the top of your stove going to be masonry or a barrel? I'll do that with the last bricks I need to set. I might use a couple of small anchors too. We'll see. I'm going to use a barrel because I want the instant heat. If I do another heater in the house, it'll likely be all brick.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 17, 2017 8:19:32 GMT -8
Family and work has been quite busy in the last couple of weeks. I haven't made as much progress as I'd like, but that's life I guess. Here's what's new: I continued working on the "P" channel I made a concrete mold for some simple covers for the bench section. They're 24"x24" (61cmx61cm) and maybe 1.375" (3.5cm) thick. One 60lb sack of premixed concrete per cover. I also used some old chicken wire fencing as a little reinforcement. Not sure if it needed reinforcing, but I figure why not. I also got a package from China. These are just simple temperature sensors I want to install to monitor how its running. The only problem is that I am an American and these sensors only display in Celsius. It might be easier to teach my dog to drive, but I'll try to adjust. The were really cheap, so I'm willing to give it a try. Sensor locations are going to be : 1. Top of the steel drum 2. Exhaust/flue 3. Far end of bench/bell If anyone has suggestions as to placement, I'm all ears!
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Post by coisinger on Feb 17, 2017 9:58:41 GMT -8
www.rapidtables.com/convert/temperature/how-celsius-to-fahrenheit.htmHere's a simple table for your conversions. Print out a sheet and keep it handy for quit reference! Those concrete slabs will get very hot, hope you don't plan on using it as a bench. I'm a tad bit concerned that the expansion and contraction of your reinforcement might crack those slabs, especially since they are relatively thin. My two cents. Looking good though! Very impressive.
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Post by Vortex on Feb 17, 2017 16:00:18 GMT -8
A quick rough way to convert is just double and add 30. For example: 20*C x 2 = 40 +30 = 70*F
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Post by rhinokeegan on Feb 17, 2017 17:16:31 GMT -8
www.rapidtables.com/convert/temperature/how-celsius-to-fahrenheit.htmHere's a simple table for your conversions. Print out a sheet and keep it handy for quit reference! Those concrete slabs will get very hot, hope you don't plan on using it as a bench. I'm a tad bit concerned that the expansion and contraction of your reinforcement might crack those slabs, especially since they are relatively thin. My two cents. Looking good though! Very impressive. Thanks. I'll be needing that sheet! I won't be sitting on the heater I thought that I might stack a little firewood and use the heat to help dry it out a bit. The 60lb bag of concrete was only $2.75 so I won't be too upset if I have to try again. I've got some ideas for more decorative covers, but I'm just too excited to get a fire started.
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