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Post by coisinger on Jan 25, 2017 4:47:40 GMT -8
These riser cores you show, are they ceramic or fiber based?
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 25, 2017 8:17:10 GMT -8
Thanks for sharing the pics and the build progress rhinokeegan. Looks pretty chilly outside!! Eric Hi Eric, Here in Minnesota the winters can be pretty cold, however we've lucked-out with a warm streak for the last week. Currently sitting in the high 20's Fahrenheit but it's not uncommon to spend a week or more below 0F. The 30x40 building I'm working in is pretty well insulated and I built a passive solar heater a couple years ago that mostly keeps it above freezing in there during the winter. It helps that I rarely open the large garage door during the winter. I'm excited to complete this build, because once I'm confident of it's success I want to build one for our home to help offset winter heating costs.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 25, 2017 8:28:49 GMT -8
These riser cores you show, are they ceramic or fiber based? I believe they are vacuum formed fiber. I bought them from Fire Brick Engineers in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I worked with Dennis Kranz and he was very helpful. They are 6" ID with a 1" wall thickness and 12 inches long. I bought them for $9.79 each. The others are 8" ID and 1" wall thickness and 12" long and I paid $15.33 each for those. Maybe I don't need the extra thickness??? but I figure more insulation on the riser can't hurt right? I also bought some liquid rigidizer that I'll use to coat the inside and help glue the sleeves together. I guess it stiffens up the material making it suitable for direct flame contact. Hopefully that answers your question.
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Post by ericaus on Jan 25, 2017 11:57:55 GMT -8
Hi Eric, Here in Minnesota the winters can be pretty cold, however we've lucked-out with a warm streak for the last week. Currently sitting in the high 20's Fahrenheit but it's not uncommon to spend a week or more below 0F. The 30x40 building I'm working in is pretty well insulated and I built a passive solar heater a couple years ago that mostly keeps it above freezing in there during the winter. It helps that I rarely open the large garage door during the winter. I'm excited to complete this build, because once I'm confident of it's success I want to build one for our home to help offset winter heating costs. Hello Keegan, Gee, I've got nothing to complain about here then. Our winters hardly ever get below zero celsius, but they just seem to get worse every year. Must be the age thing I think. Keep up the good work on the progress pictures. Eric.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 25, 2017 14:37:30 GMT -8
A little bit more work done. The floor is IFB and the interior wall will be too. Those will be loose and replaceable if need be.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 28, 2017 19:16:01 GMT -8
Got a little more done in the last couple of days. Started to fabricate the "P" channel with some sheet metal I had in the shop. It's about 0.0625 or 1.6mm thick. I bought a diamond wheel for my 4.5 inch grinder and it worked great to cut the notch for the "P" channel. I was also able to get the top on the firebox. The firebrick inside the box are just temporary while the mortar sets up. I really want to start a fire in there! Question for the experts: When using a 55 gallon drum for the primary bell, does it have to be centered over the heat riser? If it can be offset, how much clearance between the heat riser and the wall of the drum should I be shooting for?
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Post by satamax on Jan 28, 2017 21:00:47 GMT -8
Rhinokeegan.
Sorry to say, but i can't see how on earth this ceilling can hold.
The barrel can be offset.
And if you're shooting for a 2cm barrel gap on the sides, you have about 200 square inches, plenty. But it's not a bell in this case. Just a downdraft tube. Plus there's two problems in this case. The flue transition which is not easy to make well. You know that you should have a flue transition which should be about 1.5 or 2X the csa of your system. In the library, i tried o explain ring projection into a gap somewhere.
On top, Peter advises a system diameter gap, at least; for the batch.
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Post by Jura on Jan 29, 2017 1:54:43 GMT -8
I was also able to get the top on the firebox. The firebrick inside the box are just temporary while the mortar sets up. I really want to start a fire in there! The batch box ceiling bricks will be shored up by the IFBs inside of the BB, right?
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 29, 2017 9:31:36 GMT -8
Rhinokeegan. Sorry to say, but i can't see how on earth this ceilling can hold. The tan fire brick are just place holders for the IFB that will be installed a little later. The IFB will extend far enough inside the box to pickup the load of the center bricks. Hopefully it works as planned. Thanks for the info on the offset spacing! It'll be a little easier to have the drum slightly offset for the construction and future maintenance.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 29, 2017 9:41:38 GMT -8
I was also able to get the top on the firebox. The firebrick inside the box are just temporary while the mortar sets up. I really want to start a fire in there! The batch box ceiling bricks will be shored up by the IFBs inside of the BB, right? That's the plan, yes. The center bricks will overlap the IFB by a little more than 0.25 inch on either side. The top won't see any load placed on top of it and only has to support it's own weight. If it's a fantastic failure, I can replace the top with some steel lintels under it for more support. Hopefully I can spend some more time today doing some brickwork for the drum support and maybe even the secondary bell. I also picked up some ducting to start mocking up the exhaust.
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Post by satamax on Jan 29, 2017 11:16:19 GMT -8
Will the port end of the firebox be lined with ifb?
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 29, 2017 12:26:04 GMT -8
No, the port leading into the riser is just regular firebrick.
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Post by rhinokeegan on Jan 29, 2017 17:35:59 GMT -8
Back at it again this afternoon. Started by mocking up the exhaust port and the secondary bell/bench. Then I mixed up an 80lb bag of mortar and laid a couple courses of bricks. I'm sure some of you guys would have this thing done and heating by now, but I'm learning as I go. Thanks to all who've been offering advice!
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Post by satamax on Jan 30, 2017 0:42:53 GMT -8
If i may say, fill your bricks. More mass, and no convection in the wall. I have a convection problem on my workshop monster. On the wall i laid it against. All the heat goes up and doesn't fill the mass evenly.
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Post by peterberg on Jan 30, 2017 4:29:21 GMT -8
Just now I spotted a snag. The exhaust opening is in a corner so at one side the gases are blocked. As I see it, it's also quite close to the riser so there's even less space. If you insist to place the exhaust there, it would be best to use a much larger exit pipe, flush with the bricks. An 8" to 6" reducer is a possibility to solve this.
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