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Post by coastalrocketeer on Nov 25, 2022 15:01:06 GMT -8
I was planning to use this to make a large mass in a small space with heavy bricks inside a bell with a water tank for a hydronic system at the top. One Jali wall after another, and some bricks connecting them at intervals for strength.
I also think if the holes in the Jali are offset from one layer of wall to the next layer, that may increase stratification and reduce it’s turbulent disruption from the localized velocity of the incoming gas stream.
If you are talking under the stove body, a Jali wall should work as long as all of the bricks in the bottom layer sitting on the spaces out Jali, have their ends supported.
In the interior, the same rule would apply to the roof of any cavity you reduce brick usage of, in this way.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 21, 2022 13:57:18 GMT -8
I would be inclined to recommend low mass, highly insulative firebrick, and or ceramic fiber blanket as the INSIDE face of your bell. I believe the mass of your current side wall and ceiling, are sucking up most of your heat production, and causing most of your losses. I often see at least 5-6” thickness of these low mass insulating materials on the interior of small ceramic kilns. Often 3” of lightweight insulating fire brick, then an outer wrap of ceramic fiber blanket.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 15, 2022 18:21:28 GMT -8
Both of your photos show up as a black screen for me on my phone... what file format are they?
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 9, 2022 12:26:12 GMT -8
Keep in mind you can have a smaller tank inside of a bell collecting your heat, and pump it to an insulated storage tank, that way you don’t have to try to integrate your combustion device with your well insulated storage tank.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 30, 2021 15:00:04 GMT -8
I am looking at doing something similar, but having the heating done with an outside tank, and lots of insulated masonry mass around and below it in a bell... water from the exterior tank pumped to a larger tank in the house, and pumped to radiators or hydronic flooring around the house.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 27, 2021 12:25:33 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 25, 2021 11:07:42 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 25, 2021 11:04:14 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 25, 2021 10:57:14 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jun 11, 2020 9:45:45 GMT -8
The other think to think about in a bell, is that the top half of the bell absorbs more of the heat energy than the bottom half, due to the thermal stratification.
A brick near the top will absorb more heat energy, reach a higher temp, and stay hot longer than low ones.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jun 11, 2020 9:43:15 GMT -8
A top that is insulated with rock wool should work to force more heat to come out the sides and could be lifted to expose the radiant surface when fast heat is desired... I’m thinking made of thin sheet metal with rock wool sandwiched between... it could be light enough to be on hinges, or lifted by a cable or light chain?
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Post by coastalrocketeer on May 13, 2019 9:25:36 GMT -8
Looking closer, I see that the riser is directly under the Barrel... this would make stacking bricks to support the barrel a little more challenging, but it should still be possible to build a supporting structure, perhaps a metal frame, thick enough, and far enough from the riser top to survive a decent amount of time.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on May 13, 2019 9:20:18 GMT -8
Beautiful drawing! For fastest heating the Barrel could be lower so that more of it’s surface area is available for heat transfer to the water.
You can support the barrel on a tower of cross stacked bricks to put more thermal mass directly below it, and this should also allow you to just set the barrel in place at the right height and seal around it at the top with cob.
Cross stacking with bricks (or suitable steel scrap, like brake drum rotors) inside the bell, should increase the effective ISA and thermal mass allowing smaller overall structure if that is beneficial to your installation.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Apr 29, 2019 10:38:30 GMT -8
If you can order from Zoro.com there, I was able to buy a 1”x48”x25 foot roll for around $200 us delivered. I’m sure shipping will add to that cost.
Also learned after I ordered that the 6lb per cubic foot density (cheaper, usually) is a better insulator, than the 8llb per cubic foot stuff that I got. Would have ordered the other if I’d known.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Apr 27, 2019 11:09:55 GMT -8
I am going to embed pieces of (kanthal?) wire from old burned out wire coil clothes dryer and wall heater elements in the upper mortar courses on the inside of my masonry bell to hang ceramic fiber blanker from to insulate that area of the inside of the exterior masonry wall of the chamber from absorbing heat.
Will straighten a few inches of the wire and flatten a few coils to embed in my mortar on one end. The end sticking out will puncture through the ceramic fiber blanket and then be bent sideways.
With 3” sticking out, I will be able to suspend two inches of blanket from the side walls with about 2 wires per square foot. If I were hanging it from the ceiling, I would probably go with 4 or 5 wires per square foot. I would think that 2” of ceramic fiber blanket would sufficiently protect the roof were it of normal concrete.
You could also do halved vertically 55 gallon drum pieces and then brick around that to match or exceed height, cob over that to fill off to level with your brick walls, then brick over the top of the cob. Might need some thin spacer (a couple or 3 layers of cardboard should work... may smoke until it burns out,) to keep the metal’s different rate of thermal expansion from pushing fixed cob or masonry around and cracking things after everything has dried and gets heated... but it would provide the support and the steel, cob, and brick would all deal with the heat just fine.
You would need to protect normal concrete in the uppernost portion of the bell, I think, especially if the riser is close.
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