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Post by satamax on Sept 26, 2012 11:00:02 GMT -8
I hope not. But it's for roofing mostly. So no huge loads. 1.2 tons at the max with a full palet of OSB. But that i can't do at full horizontal outreach. I'll have to go by the charts and a bit of butt feeling. But with this i could stuff a nice heavy concrete bell in my flat  Park in front, and send the elements in through the window |
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Post by satamax on Sept 27, 2012 8:21:01 GMT -8
So, i have cut the two bottom pieces for the V. What a mess in the workshop.  I was thinking, i could put theses away from the back wall a bit, to have a sort of secondary air comming right at the heat riser port. Whatdaya think? Anyway, they'll be mobile, so i can try whatever i like. I have a problem tho, i don't dare trying it in front of my house on the car park. Ok it's a little mountain street, but, i'm affraid this thingy might be a bit violent. |
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Post by peterberg on Sept 27, 2012 9:09:34 GMT -8
I was thinking, i could put theses away from the back wall a bit, to have a sort of secondary air comming right at the heat riser port. Whatdaya think? Anyway, they'll be mobile, so i can try whatever i like. Secondary air has to come from above, that'll keep the flame in the afterburner down. You don't use a p-channel in this stove, so don't stack the fuel all the way to the top. Best to keep a space of about 2" above the fuel. I have a problem tho, i don't dare trying it in front of my house on the car park. Ok it's a little mountain street, but, i'm affraid this thingy might be a bit violent. Start with small pieces, it's not necessary at all to stuff it to its limits right away. Build it up slowly, nothing to scare the neighbors. When starting small, you'll see soon enough at which point the smoke disappears. |
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Post by satamax on Sept 27, 2012 12:41:02 GMT -8
Videos soon to be online. ;D
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Post by matthewwalker on Sept 27, 2012 14:29:06 GMT -8
Awesome Max! Love the "Ram Horn" pattern in the riser. The stove looks great!
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Post by satamax on Sept 27, 2012 21:28:10 GMT -8
So guys, i have a few probs.
The heat riser detached itself. Normal you'd say. But id like to find a way to hold it tight against the back wall somehow. Anyway, this needs to be encased some ways, to keep the leaks in a bell or else. Both heat riser parts cracked. That surprised me. Doesn't mater, it's a long vertical crack. But i didn't expect that. I think i've overloaded it at some point, on the first video, you see the flames goint out, and "smoke"! Peter, you're absolutely sure this doesn't need another 50cm piece in the heat riser? And, this part might intrest some of you. I've tried two things, the first one, i've "air insulated" the heat riser. Only blocked the top of the outside tube with rock wool, and left it as is. There's about 3cm each side of the refractory tubes. So convection shouldn't happen, and air is suposed to be one of the best insulants. took a fair while before the stainless tube got hot. And it was still touchable. May be it's "another way".
Nother thing i tried, bringing the V back and forth, adding a bit of secondary air; and it seemed to help a bit. Thought, i have no testo to sniff at it.
Oh, and i forgot. I tried a grid in frint, to see if it would impede the performance. Didn't seem to do much. So this is a door option. It would need two doors. One for blocking it totaly, so air isn't drawn all the time out of the room. And this one for burning while protecting the suroundings from sperks a bit.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2012 1:06:21 GMT -8
So Both heat riser parts cracked. That surprised me. No surprise for me. These clay chimney parts are only intended for up to 400 °C. Parts of the riser may very fast get up to three times the specified operating temperature. |
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Post by satamax on Sept 28, 2012 1:49:36 GMT -8
Karl, i don't know what their intended temp is. And they're not clay but advertized as proper refractory, when cutting it i could well see the "chamotte" in it. I've used it before, in my cooking rocket, which hasn't cracked as of yet. Anyway, i know they've gone to temp extremely fast, and without the support of the vermiculite around it doesn't astonish me that they've cracked. It surprised me, at first because i didn't think they would crack. Besides, it doesn't mater as long as they hold in time.
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Post by peterberg on Sept 28, 2012 2:18:23 GMT -8
I think i've overloaded it at some point, on the first video, you see the flames goint out, and "smoke"! Peter, you're absolutely sure this doesn't need another 50cm piece in the heat riser? Now, that's pretty spectacular, isn't it? And yes Max, you've overloaded it a bit. You have to have the fuel fairly compact in the firebox. As the video shows there are pieces that are longer than the firebox, stuffed in diagonally like in a campfire. Sometimes flames will come out and belching smoke. Solution in this case: only use wood that's shorter than the firebox and don't lay pieces criss-cross but lengthwise instead. As far as the riser goes, this should be long enough. Remember, there isn't a chimney to support draft. During warming up of the chimney the draft should increase. When used outside on its own as you did, another half a meter would help to keep the smoke inside. Another way to avoid smoke in the room is blocking about half of the firebox opening, leaving a gap of 2x2" at the bottom. So your suggestion for a (half) door is a workable one. Don't forget the bottom opening! And, this part might intrest some of you. I've tried two things, the first one, i've "air insulated" the heat riser. Only blocked the top of the outside tube with rock wool, and left it as is. There's about 3cm each side of the refractory tubes. So convection shouldn't happen, and air is suposed to be one of the best insulants. took a fair while before the stainless tube got hot. And it was still touchable. May be it's "another way". When the riser got hot, the stainless tube will get hot due to radiation. When the void around the riser is filled with vermiculite this won't happen as much. There's a reason why everyone is using insulation materials like rock wool and polystyrene foam instead of just air. ;D Nother thing i tried, bringing the V back and forth, adding a bit of secondary air; and it seemed to help a bit. Thought, i have no testo to sniff at it. No, it won't help. I'm convinced something will change but nothing will be add to the already recommendable properties. Rather the contrary. |
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Post by satamax on Sept 28, 2012 10:27:15 GMT -8
Hi everybody!
Well, everything fell appart. The cast back wall is not holding anymore, nor the bottom tube. So i need to find a way to get all of thoses parts to hold together. Any ideas?
Peter, if you pop around, i'd like to hear what you might say about this.
Thanks.
Max.
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Post by peterberg on Sept 28, 2012 12:36:43 GMT -8
Max,
I honestly don't know. Gluing the pieces together won't work either, the different materials do expand differently.
Maybe a light but adequate metal frame could hold it together? The metal is expanding quicker as compared to the refractory so it won't break anything. Has been done before, even with simple materials as steel wire. Of course not inside the hottest parts itself, there's a fat chance the steel will burn away.
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Post by satamax on Sept 28, 2012 12:53:47 GMT -8
Thanks a lot Peter. Well, i was thinking along the same lines. Hard to make something light enough and fire resistant, which doesn't crack etc! Best way, have my own house and build something proper I'll try to work that blady thing into the water heater without casting it. |
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Post by matthewwalker on Sept 28, 2012 13:58:44 GMT -8
Max, I know you insist you have no clay, but I'm looking at that photo of your crane and the green grass there. Dig there, use the earth you have, mix it with perlite, add some water, maybe a bit of straw, and pack that around your core. You might need to contain it all in a box of some type if it just won't hold together, but I bet it will. You should be able to make a rough cob with what you have there and pack it around your core to provide insulation and to hold everything together.
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Post by satamax on Sept 28, 2012 14:35:48 GMT -8
Matthew, i'd rather avoid the weight, otherwise, i even have a stock of refractory mortar and ciment fondu. Which i could mix with vermiculite i also have in stock.
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Post by satamax on Sept 29, 2012 4:12:09 GMT -8
Peter, a question for you.
Do you think i can put the heat riser in the water tank as far back as possible, i mean, have the heat riser against the wall of the water tank? That way, that would hold it. As for the joint between the firebox and water tank, i'm still unsure. I might start to cut that tank today! We'll see.
I'm still wondering about how to make mass too. I can raise my sofa 20/30cm And put it back on the mass. Some kind of bell'ish mass. I might just plumb it in straight as is! And use it as a stove.
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Park in front, and send the elements in through the window 
