I have been wondering if there's any difference when I add the additional few inches to make it match the numbers in the spreadsheet of the base calculations. I haven't been able to discern any performance difference between the 24" riser and one that was extended by 6".
At one instance, at somebody else's place, the 6" more made a markedly difference. It greatly depends on what type and length of chimney you use, what the rest of the stove look like i.e. is it complicated or simple. In my workshop situation I couldn't find a discrepancy between a 16" and a 24" top riser. It's very low mass and heavy insulating, a riser which contain more mass could behave differently but that isn't tried out yet. I'd think, there's probably a sort of shifting boundary, specific to any given situation. Passing that, lengthening of the riser doesn't change much anymore.
Last Edit: Mar 21, 2015 2:42:06 GMT -8 by peterberg
Post by matthewwalker on Oct 8, 2013 11:11:14 GMT -8
Thank you Peter, that's been my assumption as well. These are highly insulated, extremely low mass risers, and typically the stove is not connected to any mass, so fairly similar to your set up there. The radiator is not as tall, but does have slightly more surface area than a barrel, so it sheds heat fairly quickly. All in all, it's a simple system without much load on it, and in the case of the Challenge, it will have a tall, insulated chimney.
This question had to come by sooner or later. That beater has been there as a decoration for thirty-two years, found it along the street. I think it's antique, probably a hundred years old, this shape used to be very uncommon in the Netherlands.
Pictures taken from the new place have to show this item, otherwise nobody will believe it's my workshop.
Peter, the big question is, will your new workshop be better than the actual? About the house? Nicer?
The house will be much, much nicer. In fact what is called a passiv-haus in Germany. The workshop is inside the insulated shell and it won't double as a garage but... it will be only 2/3 of my current place. The current place is nothing more than a former horse stable of 65 m2 (700 sq ft), the only enclosed space at ground floor we have. The rest of the house is on the second and third floor. On the other hand, most of the new house will be a bungalow.
Peter, proper pasive? If yes, that's nice. You won't need rocket stoves anymore
Do you watch arte? There was à report few weeks back, about new types of heating in germany. And a guy had put a 9000L insulated tank in the house, to store the summer heat, to heat the house in the winter. Obviously, pasive, or real close.
Good luck with the new home Peter! It sounds very nice! Though, pictures of the inside of your shop look a lot like mine, crammed full of stuff. I hope moving into a smaller shop won't be too distressing.
This week I've made some video shots during one run of the last setup. Not very pretty but I hope the information value is good enough. Sound is abominable, the microphone is on top of the camcorder. The shot taken from the top of the riser probably damaged the thing, there's a purple spot just left of the middle when there's bright light.
+52° 1' 47.40", +4° 22' 57.80"
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deadstarsstillburn: The people over there recommended either a 6" batchbox or an 8" J-tube. I don't know what those are but am going to try to figure that out. What I need is a blueprint that I can scale to fit the need for my house. I have something likne 5000 square feet
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deadstarsstillburn: but I do not need to heat all of it by any means. probably only need to heat half of that, maybe less.
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deadstarsstillburn: moreover, the house has 3 storeys (large attic) so I assume if I get very efficient heating on the ground floor, that will go a long way toward heating the upstairs as well, no?
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