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Post by fasardi on Nov 15, 2021 7:54:49 GMT -8
Hi to all!
Thanks to this forum input and specially Peterberg's, two winters ago i have builded a DSR-II, 6 inches, open system.
To make the project easier and cheaper, i decided not to build a door for the top chamber, so i closed it, and did a provisional door in the firebox.
This summer i'm planning to build a proper door for the firebox, even with some glass to get a good look of the fire, and a door for the top box too. I'm looking for ideas since the project seems a little challenging, i'm an below average welder, and making the air entrances in the sides of the door isn't very hard, but making them really airtight when closed seems a little difficult.
And some tips on how to hold the glass to the metal frame would be appreciated too.
Thanks in advance!
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Post by Orange on Nov 15, 2021 10:46:37 GMT -8
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Post by fasardi on Nov 16, 2021 8:39:01 GMT -8
I liked specially this one (it's your design!) How did you hold the glass to the frame? Did you put the ceramic glass, with the rope, and then weld a metal strip? it didn't broke with the heat of the welding? |
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Nov 16, 2021 11:12:39 GMT -8
Looking at the door of my box stove it has a thin sheet metal L shaped strip on the inside of the glass with the fiberglass rope between the glass & the door.It is held in place with metal tabs that are screwed not welded into the door frame.On top of this is the second rope that seals against the frame of the stove.
In manufacturing welding is often chosen over drilling and tapping because of cost, if the assembly doesn't need to be taken apart in the future.For the DIY metalworker this method needs a lot less investment & is easier to learn than welding.Matt Walker has a door design that is made with aluminium profiles and pop rivets which is even simpler & cheaper to make.
To achieve an airtight door seal some amount of flex in the closing mechanism is essential.
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Post by fiedia on Nov 16, 2021 11:17:24 GMT -8
The door I built for a 125mm/5’’ batch rocket used the DSR2 design by Peterberg given Here I believe this sketchup model is for a 6’’ system. It looks the same as Orange doors. Peterberg explained that he had to reduce the inlets for his DSR3. I had also to reduce them to optimize my batchrocket. Look at the discussion page2 of this thread: HereRegarding air inlet tightness: there is an example of inlet door in the model. It works well. You just have to put it at the end of the burn to keep the heat inside the bell. Otherwise there is no need to adjust the inlet opening. Regarding door tightness: I welded the hinges on the door and window frames in situ. I mean that I built both frames and stuck them together with the same clearance on every side before welding the hinges. After that I glued a 10mm diameter high temp gasket all around the door. I found the gasket at my local stove dealer. Regarding window tightness: I used another gasket 20x2mm glued on the 4 window edges (in a U shape). Look at the picture on page 1 of the last thread and you will see that the glass is held between the window frame and a glass holder frame. You can adjust the thickness of the holder frame bottom corners with a trimer until you get the right clearance for the glass. It should stay in place when the door is on vertical position but you should be able to move it between the frames manually. I then drilled the top of both frames and inserted a latch (a cut nail). One can change the glass just by removing this nail. Hope it is clear enough, otherwise, please ask for more details. |
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fuegos
Full Member
not out of the woods yet
Posts: 177
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Post by fuegos on Nov 16, 2021 11:51:46 GMT -8
"I then drilled the top of both frames and inserted a latch (a cut nail). One can change the glass just by removing this nail" what a great idea - simple & easy to do.
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Post by Orange on Nov 17, 2021 13:46:56 GMT -8
yes that's a great idea. I just spot welded a piece of metal to hold the glass against glass rope. I don't have glass rope around door I think there is very little air that can come trough.
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Post by fasardi on Nov 18, 2021 4:09:44 GMT -8
After that I glued a 10mm diameter high temp gasket all around the door. I found the gasket at my local stove dealer. Regarding window tightness: I used another gasket 20x2mm glued on the 4 window edges (in a U shape). Look at the picture on page 1 of the last thread and you will see that the glass is held between the window frame and a glass holder frame. You can adjust the thickness of the holder frame bottom corners with a trimer until you get the right clearance for the glass. It should stay in place when the door is on vertical position but you should be able to move it between the frames manually. I then drilled the top of both frames and inserted a latch (a cut nail). One can change the glass just by removing this nail. Hope it is clear enough, otherwise, please ask for more details. Thanks! that's really clear! I just have one doubt, wich glue did you use to hold the gasket? Here I can get one that is silicone based, it's used in engine motors and holds around 300 ºC, and another one than is used in motor exhauts, holds until 1000ºC, but is a little harder and maybe could damage the glass. |
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Post by martyn on Nov 18, 2021 4:17:45 GMT -8
You can buy many sizes of flat heat seal strip that has a glue already on it, very common stuff to find in any stove shop.
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Post by fiedia on Nov 18, 2021 6:04:18 GMT -8
As Martyn wrote, the 20x2mm flat gasket around the glass is sold with glue on it.
The glue on the round gasket around the window frame came my local stove dealer. Websites selling such gaskets also offer such specific glue for stove and chimney insert. |
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Post by fasardi on Nov 24, 2021 8:08:12 GMT -8
Well, after checking a few sites, at least in Argentina they sell the gasket without the glue on it. All they offer is the glues i mentioned previosly. They told me than the usual practice is putting the gasket and pressing it with the glass directly. They hold the glass with four metal straps than press the gasket and are rivet (riveted? don't know the term) to the metal of the door. I guess they don't visit this forum!
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Post by martyn on Nov 24, 2021 9:56:13 GMT -8
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Post by fiedia on Nov 24, 2021 14:12:15 GMT -8
Looks like I was not clear enough. I used two types of gaskets : - for the glass: a thin flat one 20x2mm around the edge of the glass (U shape). It is self adhesive which helps keeping it in place while assembling the window. It is then trapped between window frame, glass and glass holder frame. Having glue here is not mandatory. You may use screws, rivets or welding to hold the glass frame to the window frame, I gave you another solution which is removable. Do not press too much, the glass should have some freedom to expand less than the metal frame. - for the door: a round fat gasket about 10mm diameter around the door to improve the tightness between the door and its frame. If you do not use glue here, the gasket will fall down every time you open the door. All commercial stove have such a door gasket and it has to be replaced regularly. Therefore, if you go to your stove local dealer, open the door, show the gasket around the door and ask him how to change this specific gasket next year, he may sell this round gasket with some tube of glue for maintenance of his stoves.
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Post by fasardi on Nov 30, 2021 7:34:35 GMT -8
You where really clear fiedia! The real problem is than in Argentina, or at least in the usual online shopping here (mercadolibre) there isn't any available glue or gasket with glue on it. I saw it online in other countries but not here. Maybe i'll find it in a stove dealer, i'm starting to ask, thank you!
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Forsythe
Full Member
Instauratur Ruinae
Posts: 208
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Post by Forsythe on Dec 12, 2021 6:36:13 GMT -8
You where really clear fiedia! The real problem is than in Argentina, or at least in the usual online shopping here (mercadolibre) there isn't any available glue or gasket with glue on it. I saw it online in other countries but not here. Maybe i'll find it in a stove dealer, i'm starting to ask, thank you! Something really useful I learned while browsing the Masonry Heater Association’s photo archives of their annual meeting builds: GE Type 1 Clear Silicone sealant / caulk is the same exact type of high-temperature silicone sold as their red fireplace sealant — the only difference is the iron oxide they add to the latter to make it red… and charge 4 times the price for it. Be sure it’s the type 1 which smells like vinegar (acetic acid) — not the type 2 “paintable” kind. |
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