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Post by peterberg on Dec 15, 2019 3:39:14 GMT -8
The riser stub is the riser? If so, I can't make the bell this dimensions,  Is there another way to proceed? The riser stub is the short vertical riser beside the firebox where most of the afterburning action is taking place. The top box is just... the top box which regulate the action inside the riser stub. And yes, you can change the bell in order to have it acting as a real bell. At the right of the bell in your drawing there's a low piece, right in front of the chimney pipe. Build that as part and as high as the bell and there you are. Here's a picture of that detail, just to show it can be done. You could even choose to have the chimney pipe inside the bell, the inside part of the pipe could be masonry work as well.  |
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Post by miquel on Dec 15, 2019 22:51:18 GMT -8
You are right! I'm still a little shorter, 4.5 times
CSA of the stub riser, but I supose it will be fine, isn't it?
If I put the chimney inside the bell I have to isolate it?
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 19, 2019 5:47:03 GMT -8
Is this design suitable for use as an open system? without the conduit for the second combustion air
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Post by peterberg on Dec 19, 2019 6:58:29 GMT -8
Is this design suitable for use as an open system? without the conduit for the second combustion air There are some details in this particular design which I wouldn't recommend. Like the piped bench for example, all the bends are forming possible restriction points. A bell bench, blind ended or not would be much better in that respect. Having said that, a chimney bypass would be a recommended item in such a construction. |
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 19, 2019 8:19:54 GMT -8
but if we analyze only the core it is suitable to be built as an open system?
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Post by peterberg on Dec 19, 2019 9:40:03 GMT -8
but if we analyze only the core it is suitable to be built as an open system? Yes it is, and tested as well. The development model is still in my workshop and operational. Now and then I do a demonstration for a visitor, open every time. Building a new heater one would need to close part of the opening until the whole of the heater is thoroughly dried out. |
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 19, 2019 22:49:04 GMT -8
This discourse makes me think that an open system is more sensitive to what comes after the core.
Could it be said that an open system is more suitable to have a large bell after it, rather than, for example, a cooking plate?
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Post by peterberg on Dec 20, 2019 1:20:03 GMT -8
This discourse makes me think that an open system is more sensitive to what comes after the core. Could it be said that an open system is more suitable to have a large bell after it, rather than, for example, a cooking plate? The idea is that the DSR2, whether open or closed, is less sensitive to what comes after the core, as long as there are no severe restrictions. It seems to me that you are good in asking more questions after every answer you get, much like Miquel. |
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 21, 2019 6:23:41 GMT -8
my questions are founded on doubts, thanks for having dispelled it
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Post by miquel on Dec 29, 2019 1:46:58 GMT -8
I done my DSR2 sidewinder casting the parts. Now I don't know how many time it's needed to dry correctly so they don't break with premature fire. Any advise how to proceed?
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Post by peterberg on Dec 29, 2019 3:35:54 GMT -8
I done my DSR2 sidewinder casting the parts. Now I don't know how many time it's needed to dry correctly so they don't break with premature fire. Any advise how to proceed? Keep the parts moist by plastic sheet or something like that for a week, highest strength is reached by then. What I did in the past with a lot of large cast parts: let those dry until the weight stops to get lower. Time to reach this state is dependent on temperature and humidity. So what you could do is to place those parts in a ventilated oven, set the temperature on, say, 40 ºC and leave it like that for 24 hours. Weigh the parts (or just one) beforehand and after. The result should be castings that won't dry any further just by air. Assemble the parts and run the core very carefully. Alternatively in an oven for 8 hours at 150ºC if I remember correctly. This should get you proper dried and cured castings. Weight is very important: after the process is done the parts' weight should be very close to the dry weight of the used refractory castable. Or forget all the above, assemble right out of the mold and run it as hot as you are able to. That's what I did with my first castings, it satisfied my curiosity no end but the parts were like ehrr... very brittle, very light. |
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Post by Pierre on Jan 8, 2020 11:08:39 GMT -8
Peter must have the patience of a Saint.
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Post by miquel on Mar 24, 2020 11:23:34 GMT -8
In the end i got my DSR2 sidewinder with bell finished. Attached some photos and video. If you watch the video it seems to me that with the door close there isn't enought draft, air missing? And when I open te door the smoke go away and the draft improve. Any advise? The air aperture in the laterals of the door how wide has to be? |
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Post by josephcrawley on Mar 24, 2020 13:12:01 GMT -8
Having the upper door open of course would cause a significant decrease in draft as you did in the video. How does it perform with the upper door closed? Also until the stove is up to temp it is by design that the door will need to be cracked open a hair. At least this is the case with standard floor channel air intake dimensions(meaning pre dsr2). Here's the link to Peter's drawing of the dsr2 you can use the scale tool in sketchup to match the size of your core then measure the various air intakes. donkey32.proboards.com/thread/3503/double-shoebox-rocket-mark-ii?page=243rd post down. |
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Post by peterberg on Mar 24, 2020 13:58:50 GMT -8
Yes Miquel, Joseph is right, that top door should be closed during the entire burn time. What do you expect, have you seen a single video from the development stage where the core is run with that door open?
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