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Post by pinhead on Jan 22, 2018 7:39:58 GMT -8
Beautiful! For us less artistic types, is there a halfway decent aftermarket stove door that can serve as a door or a bell/bench cleanout? Vogelzang's higher grade of barrel stove door isn't bad. I think it needs a better clamp on the handle, Here is a hackable handle that might serve. Also could use improved gasketing, but youse guys know how to make that happen. I'd prolly weld up the extra air inlet, or close it on a gasket, and add a properly sized primary air inlet. Maybe leave it alone and include it in the primary air calculations? Vogelzang used to sell a cheap stamped steel barrel stove door that was absolute crap, when I've messed with it. As bad as the old Sotz (a.k.a. Soots) stoves. Yeah, I had one. Admit it, so did some of you. But even this, with a better gasket, might make a fine bell cleanout, No? None of these compare with your nice artistry, but for us that probably won't match such craftsmanship, this kit might be an alternative to a leaky home-made door. Any other/better suppliers? I'm using a Vogelzang Barrel Stove door that I made semi-airtight using standard oven door "rope." The pic is fuzzy because I cropped it from a wide-angle image but I think you can see the rope around the periphery of the door. photos.app.goo.gl/OA8oao5Hhd8PVRbI3I'll also be modifying this door with a 6x6 ceramic window so I'll get pics of that when I finish that as well. I chose to make the door airtight because there are times when starting the stove from "stone cold" before chimney draft gets going that a small amount of smoke will escape the top of the door. Since the stove is in an airtight cellar, any amount of smoke is "too much." EDIT: And I added a window. Overview video with the window.
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Jan 26, 2018 15:39:53 GMT -8
My door was CNC cut and folded by a local steel fabrication shop from plans I got from a Dutch guy on another forum.
The CNC work was so clean and precise.
Then I got a friend to weld the joints, make the hinges, weld the primary/secondary air slides and add the rim/edge for the door seal.
If anyone is interested in the plans let me know. I will dig them out, upload them to my Amazon S3 site and post a link.
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Post by wiscojames on Jan 26, 2018 17:25:19 GMT -8
I'm not quite there yet, but as for shared knowledge, it's great. Some day I hope to need those plans.
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Post by DCish on Feb 3, 2018 17:43:18 GMT -8
My door was CNC cut and folded by a local steel fabrication shop from plans I got from a Dutch guy on another forum. The CNC work was so clean and precise. Then I got a friend to weld the joints, make the hinges, weld the primary/secondary air slides and add the rim/edge for the door seal. If anyone is interested in the plans let me know. I will dig them out, upload them to my Amazon S3 site and post a link. If you could post, I, for one, would be grateful!
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Post by esbjornaneer on Feb 5, 2018 8:42:56 GMT -8
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Post by smokeout on Feb 5, 2018 16:12:25 GMT -8
I have the glass on hand for my door, just gotta find time to install it. 5/8"x8"x8"
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tadiv
New Member
Posts: 24
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Post by tadiv on Feb 9, 2018 12:21:21 GMT -8
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Post by frenchstoves on Feb 11, 2018 12:02:04 GMT -8
Hello😊 I'm just working on my first build. I restore antique french stoves and we have doors available.
I think it might be too costly in shipping for most to import our doors to the USA (I will find out if anyone is interested) but if anyone from europe wants one please get in touch.
I will only ask a non-profit value 5-30€ for each door plus postage, if its for a rocket project.😊
My own first rocket will have a feeder chamber lined with brick with a door made using an antique french Mirus.
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Post by michel on Mar 15, 2018 6:23:10 GMT -8
Hi All, Still busy with my stove, but done with the door! Thought i should share it here. photos.app.goo.gl/MGsExQ67wdNEQMma2I designed it in sketchup and made it together with a dutch welding company. It has an inlet for sec/primary air and is basically a frame that is mountable on a frame thats build in the stove. Its for a 15 cm system. Hopefully in the next weeks i can finish the stove and finally light it, will post pics. Ofcourse only then i will know if this door is functional, fingers crossed! If it works i will share my design here. Frenchstoves: A friend of mine is really interested in your offer about the doors (as am i but unfortunately i already made one) I send you a pm.
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Post by ericaus on Mar 15, 2018 13:36:22 GMT -8
That's a good looking door Michel. So is yours tadiv. Tell us Michel,are both the handles linked? Why did you go for the two handles and not just a single? What type of finish did you apply? Stainless button head screws would probably contrast well with the darker finish. The hex head bolts look good though. Can you give us some images of the inside? I'll be starting my doors soon, but I'm thinking polished stainless would look good. It would end up pretty costly though. Eric
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Post by Vortex on Mar 18, 2018 10:50:43 GMT -8
Nice looking door Michel. The steel looks a little thin, is that why it has 2 handles? I wont use anything less than 5mm steel angle, preferably 6mm, otherwise you can run into warping issues. This is my latest door. The catch is just a temporary job as I have to take out the frame to weld the proper catch on and cant do that while the stove is in use.
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Post by michel on Mar 19, 2018 10:26:20 GMT -8
Thanks Vortex and Eric, Eric: The two handles are a design thingy as i noticed too late that my bolt placements were screwing with the handle placement... The finish i used is called 'Kachelpoets' in dutch, dont know any other name for it. Its a tube with graphite and linseed oil that you rub on like you would polish your shoes. Here a pic of the inside: photos.app.goo.gl/zAEKOSgGMZ0DOoEw1I used some kind of white insulated firebrick and plastered it with heat resistant cement/glue for a more abrasive resistant survace. The dimensions are not entirely correct, mainly because i wanted a more clear view on the fire. I will add sloped sides but am thinking of a metal basket of sorts. Here is hoping it will work... I will post more pics when i am done to show the project. Vortex: Yeah, it might be that it will warp, i am afraid i did too little research. Both frames that capture the glass are 5 mm thick and because they are mounted with bolts, i was hoping it will be sturdy enough. The handles will help a bit i hope... still time to add some steel to prevent warping, should i? Your door looks great!
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Post by Vortex on Mar 19, 2018 11:13:42 GMT -8
Michel, You could use the center right door bolt to hold the door handle on and hold the glass in position.
I can't see a glass seal between the glass and metal of the door in your picture. (Look at my picture above, there's a seal around the edge of the glass so the metal can expand without breaking the glass) do you have one?
If you have 2 pieces of flat 5mm bolted together then I think your door will be OK, angle is better of course. If you make a steel basket use at least 6mm steel, even then it'll only last a few years so be prepared to replace it.
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Post by michel on Mar 20, 2018 7:58:21 GMT -8
True, i thought of that too, but somehow went with this solution.. not sure why but i think it looks cool;-)
Yup, the glass is sealed with the rope stuff it needs to give it room to expand, but thanks for the heads up. As every situation is different, and you dont know what you dont know, all tips are welcome!
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Post by ericaus on May 1, 2018 0:23:17 GMT -8
While we're on the subject of doors, I'm just wondering whether to have the door latch pull to open or rotate to open. I suppose it doesn't really matter as long as it functions as it should. I'm just thinking a pull to open handle would be nice to use, seeing that opening the latch gets followed through in the same motion as opening the door. Better than having to twist your wrist. Maybe I'm thinking too much about this. What do you think?? Eric
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