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Post by smokeout on Jan 15, 2018 15:57:02 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 16, 2018 1:46:55 GMT -8
Looking good! I have some old bed frame angle iron that looks just like that, except painted. Another good use to save them for! |
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Post by invention1 on Jan 20, 2018 16:47:07 GMT -8
Watch out for that bed frame iron. It's free, but it can be awful hard. Messed up a few drill bits trying to save money on steel. It welds and cuts OK if you've got the right tools, and drills OK if you are using really good drill bits maybe cobalt.
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 20, 2018 18:00:32 GMT -8
That's a nice looking door. I usually do my doors out of flat plate reinforced with some angle to hold the glass and prevent warping.
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Post by smokeout on Jan 20, 2018 18:31:18 GMT -8
That's a nice looking door. I usually do my doors out of flat plate reinforced with some angle to hold the glass and prevent warping. Do you have any photos you can post? I just received my glass. I think I have a good way to secure it into position, but I'm open to ideas |
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Post by Vortex on Jan 21, 2018 2:39:26 GMT -8
Use some of that flat sticky fire rope seal to wrap the edges of the glass to cushion it against the steel, and be sure to leave a little room around the edge of the glass for it to expand and contract otherwise your glass will break. I hold them in with a small piece of angled steel screwed into the door frame, like this:  |
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Jan 21, 2018 8:49:16 GMT -8
I used the same method as Vortex, sandwiching both sides in flat fire rope seal.
The fasteners on the steel frame holding the glass against the door are just more than hand tight to let the glass 'float'.
If you're not 100% sure pop down to your local woodstove shop and look at the stove doors to see how they've done it.
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 21, 2018 11:34:30 GMT -8
I usually cut some thin angle iron out of the corners of square stock. Slight taller than the glass. Then I use the glass plus some washers to place the pieces where I want them and tack it in place. I only use three pieces of angle bottom and sides so the glass just slides into place them I pack in some ceramic fiber to hold it in place and allow for expansion. This seemed better to me than screwing anything since when the glass brakes in 10 years those screws will be welded in place or at least that's been my experience with stove doors
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Post by Vortex on Jan 21, 2018 15:15:13 GMT -8
Those small bits of angle steel are 15mm x 15mm by 2mm thick, cut out of 20mm x 2mm box section, the smallest angle steel that I can buy is a bit too heavy for the job.
You cant see it in the picture but those screws are hex head self-tappers, so they'll be easy to get out, but you're right in principle, I wouldn't use any other type of screw as the slots in the heads corrode away and then you cant get them out.
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Post by invention1 on Jan 21, 2018 17:12:34 GMT -8
Beautiful! For us less artistic types, is there a halfway decent aftermarket stove door that can serve as a door or a bell/bench cleanout? Vogelzang's higher grade of barrel stove door isn't bad. I think it needs a better clamp on the handle, Here is a hackable handle that might serve. Also could use improved gasketing, but youse guys know how to make that happen. I'd prolly weld up the extra air inlet, or close it on a gasket, and add a properly sized primary air inlet. Maybe leave it alone and include it in the primary air calculations? Vogelzang used to sell a cheap stamped steel barrel stove door that was absolute crap, when I've messed with it. As bad as the old Sotz (a.k.a. Soots) stoves. Yeah, I had one. Admit it, so did some of you. But even this, with a better gasket, might make a fine bell cleanout, No? None of these compare with your nice artistry, but for us that probably won't match such craftsmanship, this kit might be an alternative to a leaky home-made door. Any other/better suppliers? |
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 21, 2018 18:02:42 GMT -8
Some here might disagree but the door does not need to be air tight just reasonably tight.
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Post by invention1 on Jan 21, 2018 19:41:11 GMT -8
Some here might disagree but the door does not need to be air tight just reasonably tight. Why you are correct sir! We aren't making airtight wood stoves here. I forgot! [EDIT] but what about that bell cleanout? Air leaking there might be bad, maybe a draw killer? or worse? Whaddya think? |
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Post by briank on Jan 21, 2018 19:46:32 GMT -8
One of these days when finances permit I’m going to import a pallet of these doors, which look easy to mount on a sheet metal frame around the BBR: m.alibaba.com/product/60254326372/Cast-iron-wood-stove-door.html?spm=a2706.7843667.1998817009.8.d04A5N#module-big-image-0In the meantime, I’m searching for older Vogelzang Frontiersman wood stoves and just using their frame and firebox door with glass. So far I’ve found three on Craigslist. I picked up the first two for $45 each, and the third for $150 last week. But it came with 10’ of class A stainless steel chimney including a complete through the roof assembly, and I sold that tonight on Craigslist for $125. So for a net investment of $115 I’ve gotten 3 full wood stoves to modify - or $38 each total. |
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Post by briank on Jan 21, 2018 20:00:40 GMT -8
Beautiful! For us less artistic types, is there a halfway decent aftermarket stove door that can serve as a door or a bell/bench cleanout? Vogelzang's higher grade of barrel stove door isn't bad. I think it needs a better clamp on the handle, Here is a hackable handle that might serve. Also could use improved gasketing, but youse guys know how to make that happen. I'd prolly weld up the extra air inlet, or close it on a gasket, and add a properly sized primary air inlet. Maybe leave it alone and include it in the primary air calculations? Vogelzang used to sell a cheap stamped steel barrel stove door that was absolute crap, when I've messed with it. As bad as the old Sotz (a.k.a. Soots) stoves. Yeah, I had one. Admit it, so did some of you. But even this, with a better gasket, might make a fine bell cleanout, No? None of these compare with your nice artistry, but for us that probably won't match such craftsmanship, this kit might be an alternative to a leaky home-made door. Any other/better suppliers? These folks sell a nice stainless steel version of the barrel stove kit: tennesseebarrelstoves.com/product/base-camp-stove-kit/ |
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Post by josephcrawley on Jan 22, 2018 5:51:58 GMT -8
Some here might disagree but the door does not need to be air tight just reasonably tight. Why you are correct sir! We aren't making airtight wood stoves here. I forgot! [EDIT] but what about that bell cleanout? Air leaking there might be bad, maybe a draw killer? or worse? Whaddya think? If you examine the commercial cast iron clean outs you will see they are not air tight either. If you ever have a bad cold start you will see the bricks are not air tight in the least. Just keep it reasonable. |
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