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Post by firewatcher on Jun 24, 2016 9:17:43 GMT -8
buddyrhodes lists three retail locations in Michigan www.buddyrhodes.com/retail-locator/One may also look for local pottery suppliers. Asside of grog they are selling volcanic stone flour suitable as pozzolan, eg. nepheline syenite, which is mentioned as a pozzolan in several patents. However, I myself have yet not tested nepheline syenite. Karl,
It looks like I'm just destined to have to powderize the perlite that I have. I spoke with the one sales location on the Buddy Rhodes site that was somewhat near me and he does not carry any of the pozzolan materials listed on the site. I've contacted several pottery businesses and they've all told me that they do not sell material to the public. Construction/cement supply businesses don't seem to have any idea what I'm talking about when I ask if they carry pozzolans/cement extenders/perlite/etc. I CAN purchase most of the materials that you've suggested in the past, but by the time that I pay for shipping of the products, unfortunately I may as well buy straight-up refractory casting material in a bag.
One example:
The manufacturer of one fine-grade perlite quoted me a price of $8 for a 4 cubic foot bag. The price quoted to ship it to my residence was $32. Fire clay costs me $24 and I can pick it up from a local supplier. Enough silica gel and lye to make 2L of sodium silicate costs me about $10. Total cost is $74 (and I'd need a lot more sodium silicate than the 2L). One bag of refractory cement, which I can buy and pick up locally, costs $75.
My only hope at this point is to find a local supplier who can provide a pozzolan. Unfortunately at this point, I've not been able to do so. Going to keep looking though. 
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2016 10:07:53 GMT -8
Prices and shipping seems to be a big problem in the US. From my German point of view a bit insane. For waterglass you may look at heavy duty cleaners like TSP/90® from Red Devil, which is Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate according to the SDS. Two lb would be enough for 3-5 liter liquid. At Ebay 4 lb are sold for US $9.90. Other brands may be cheaper. You need to look up shipping yourself. Laguna Clay has a lot of distributors. www.lagunaclay.com/distributors/Those unable to get pozzolan cannot make geopolymers. |
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Post by firewatcher on Jul 12, 2016 4:18:10 GMT -8
Lawry,
Just curious if you've cast your core yet and if so how it went...
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lawry
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Post by lawry on Jul 13, 2016 1:37:20 GMT -8
Hi firewatcher I did cast it but it was a disaster!😓
It seems I was too impatient with it and I took it apart too early and it broke into pieces... I used Clay in this mix. And as Karl said clay takes too long. I plan to use the last of my Fly Ash for the next attempt. Plus I got hold of Silicon carbide.
Yesterday I was busy with a batch of sodium silicate. So i might cast again today
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Post by firewatcher on Jul 13, 2016 13:39:03 GMT -8
Sorry to hear about your misfortune...hope that your next attempt works well for you. I'm kind of on a tangent at the moment trying to get a ball mill built. I'm having a bit of trouble with making a belt that doesn't slip on the barrel.
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Post by firewatcher on Jul 13, 2016 13:40:42 GMT -8
Hi firewatcher I did cast it but it was a disaster!😓 It seems I was too impatient with it and I took it apart too early and it broke into pieces... I used Clay in this mix. And as Karl said clay takes too long. I plan to use the last of my Fly Ash for the next attempt. Plus I got hold of Silicon carbide. Yesterday I was busy with a batch of sodium silicate. So i might cast again today Here's what i've been working on in the mean time so that i can pulverize some zeolite and some perlite...  |
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Post by keithturtle on Jul 15, 2016 22:40:59 GMT -8
I'm having a bit of trouble with making a belt that doesn't slip on the barrel.Two things to help the friction interface: Wrap the belt contact area with sheet natural rubber, 1/16 to 1/8" thick, bond with contact cement; use a segmented belt. Keep the motor as low as possible so you don't try and lift the drum off the backside rollers Turtle
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Post by dave17 on Jul 16, 2016 3:55:08 GMT -8
You might also try a dryer drum belt, they are built to grip a metal surface like you have. You could probably recycle the motor out of a dryer also.
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Post by dave17 on Jul 18, 2016 3:04:57 GMT -8
Oh, and this design of ball mill is similar to compost mixers people make out of barrels. One thing they reported was that if the wheels weren't perfectly aligned the barrel would eventually walk off one end. The fix for that was to add a wheel at one end touching just inside the lip on the top/bottom of the drum and put the thing at a slight angle to keep it in one place.
Let us know how well this grinds, it could be a really useful tool!
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Post by firewatcher on Jul 18, 2016 7:11:25 GMT -8
Thanks everybody for the great suggestions! My brother mentioned that he may have a dryer belt available...and I received a motor from a co-worker so i should be able to assemble this all in the near future. Waiting to do so is killing me, but unfortunately i won't have the time to work on this for 2 weeks due to plans over the next 2 weekends. |
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Post by dave17 on Jul 22, 2016 6:14:38 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2016 8:15:18 GMT -8
The LTGS tech is far too complicated requires a lot expensive equipment and works only for ram molds. For a say 10% mixture one cannot simply mix clay with 6.7% calcined clay and 3.3% lye, add water and mold it then cure it at 85°C for some time and finaly fire it at 450°C. Such a procedure would cause a far to small change of the chemical and physical properties. The LTGS tech requires a very much stronger alkaline attack on the calcined clay. First one needs to calcine some of the clay and mix it with 50% NaOH, KOH equivalent and a small amount of water, then cure it to get the oligosialate geopolymeric precursor. Second the high alkali precursor needs to be crushed in its gel state before it can be mixed with the rest of the clay. See olso: Characterization of low-purity clays for geopolymer binder formulation. www.researchgate.net/publication/278402295_Characterization_of_low-purity_clays_for_geopolymer_binder_formulationInvestigating the possibility of utilizing low kaolinitic clays in production of geopolymer bricks. www.irsm.cas.cz/materialy/cs_content/2010/Mohsen_CS_2010_0000.pdf |
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lawry
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Post by lawry on Jul 24, 2016 8:45:48 GMT -8
Just over a month ago I tried casting a 200 mesh grog brick.... Unlike the Fly Ash bricks, it didn't harden at all instead it oozed out the liquids. Even after a week it was still soft I broke it into two pieces and I forgot about it. Today I tried to crumble it and smash it but I couldn't.  Here is a video of me cutting it to show its structure. vimeo.com/176041605Recipe : Grog 180 Aggregates 245/245/210 NaOh 71 NaSiO 29 Notes: since this mix oozed liquids out so much, I am guessing I need to reduce the solution quantity. Maybe let the mix of grog and 45g NaOh solution rest overnight. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2016 10:25:36 GMT -8
Grog even if very fine takes quite long to harden at ambient temperatures without a sufficient amount of lime.
As grog is dense it may cause segregation if it does not harden fast, which may look like oozing.
As patience is not one of my strong points I prefer dry, just add water mixtures
with lye powder and quicklime, wich give an additional speed boost by heat of dissolution and heat of hydration.
Looks like the pieces got very hard after some time.
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lawry
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Post by lawry on Jul 25, 2016 11:54:45 GMT -8
So Karl can we make soapstone?
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