|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 16, 2016 15:26:03 GMT -8
I'm trying to keep to a list of materials that i can purchase locally...it seems that a lot of materials, in the amounts that i need to cast a stove, are rediculously expensive to ship.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2016 7:05:53 GMT -8
buddyrhodes lists three retail locations in Michigan www.buddyrhodes.com/retail-locator/One may also look for local pottery suppliers. Asside of grog they are selling volcanic stone flour suitable as pozzolan, eg. nepheline syenite, which is mentioned as a pozzolan in several patents. However, I myself have yet not tested nepheline syenite. |
|
|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 17, 2016 7:37:32 GMT -8
Karl,
Thank you very much for your input. There is one location that is not too far from me. Depending on cost, which i will look at immediately after making this post, grog may be the way that i go based on your "just add water" recipe.
Just one additional note as an update. I did make a batch of 45% perlite 45% fire clay 10% lime recipe and it worked great. At the moment i'm just performing a "soak" test to confirm that the material, after being dried in a small fire, does not degrade. I'll attach a picture to my next post.
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge and for all of your help in my endeavour to build a durable quality stove! I greatly appreciate not only your help but also the help of all those who contribute in this forum!
|
|
|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 18, 2016 18:33:32 GMT -8
|
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113 
|
Post by lawry on Jun 18, 2016 21:55:41 GMT -8
Looks solid to me. How does it feel? What are the white speckles? Perlite or other aggregate?
|
|
|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 19, 2016 9:47:45 GMT -8
It is definately solid...and very light weight. The aggregate that i used was perlite...probably a little too large, as the puck wasn't terribly difficult to break in two with my hands. It wasn't EASY to break...but not terribly difficult. Again, i think this isbin part brcause the puck was only 1.5" thick. When i cast the stove and riser, i'm planning on going 3" thick. So, i'm going to test a "slab" first at 3" thick and see how it does before going forward. Also going to crush the large perlite aggregate down to a smaller size. I think that the combination of smaller size aggregate and thicker brick should make for a stronger end result. When i have results i'll share.
|
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by lawry on Jun 19, 2016 11:35:41 GMT -8
Update: Done making a mould for the firebox. Took me a week.... For one side.  Decided on the insulative mix for the firebox. Measured it's density of be 1126 kg/m^3, so I need about 22 kg total. Had to whip up some sodium silicate. Took a while. Also modified my cook stove into a curing oven. I will probably cast some time this week. Will update then. |
|
|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 20, 2016 4:44:07 GMT -8
Nice job on the mold...i've seen someone else build the same/sumilar mold in another thread and it was suggested that rather than ramming the mix in from the top, it would be better to do so from what would be the "outside" of the fire box. I'll have to see if i can find the link to this thread and you can have a look at what they were saying. I'd hate to see you spend a ton of time and then run into issues.
|
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by lawry on Jun 20, 2016 5:21:12 GMT -8
The mixes are quite workable. So i expect it to flow in through the crevices easy enough. Plus I made a vibrating base where I'll use rotary hammer drill for just in case. Advice is very welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by firewatcher on Jun 20, 2016 5:21:49 GMT -8
Lawry, So, if I recall correctly, the idea behind filling the mould horizontally was to prevent possible air pockets (I'd have to reread the thread again as it's been a while)...mainly because, I think, this particular discussion was with regard to "pouring" the refractory material being used. I imagine that one could run into the same issue with ramming the material into the mould in the vertical position though, especially if you incorporated the 45 degree "wedge" at the base of the heat riser portion. If you're so inclined, give the following thread a read if you haven't run across it already. Peterberg contributed quite a lot of personal experience to this thread as well. donkey32.proboards.com/thread/741/6-horizontal-mouldWhat composition is the insulative mix that you referred to? |
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by lawry on Jun 20, 2016 5:41:13 GMT -8
Thank you firewatcher I had no seen this thread. I'll go trough it.
|
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by lawry on Jun 20, 2016 6:15:13 GMT -8
My mix by mass is
Fly ash 322
NASIO/NAOH 152
RIVER 108
PERLITE 20
VERMICULITE 14
River is river sand it has aggregate 7 mm and Smaller
|
|
lawry
Junior Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by lawry on Jun 20, 2016 8:57:50 GMT -8
Karl I managed to find this material called prophylaxis. See the spec sheet  Can it be used to create geopolymer as it is without other additives? What do you think? |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2016 10:15:05 GMT -8
Not without calcination.
Pyrophyllite is a chrystaline mineral composed of aluminium silicate hydroxide.
If it is cheap it could be used instead of fire clay as a fine aggregate to enrich the alumina content.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2016 10:55:23 GMT -8
Everyone with talent as a craftsman or handyman some tools and a junkyard nearby
could get access to virtually unlimmited amounts of pozzolan by taking an old barrel,
an old electric motor strong enough to let the loaded barrel rotate up to about 250 times/minute,
ball-bearings and a few pieces of steel to build a ball mill.
Weld a few steel rods inside the barrel to take along material.
Even old glass could be milled to pozzolan this way.
|
|
