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Post by Orange on Sept 11, 2021 13:18:25 GMT -8
main bell construction - looks simple but a lot of manual work:
side slits for primary air according to specs:
top view - on right side comes firebox, on left is the opening to secondary bell:
needs additional grinding... top view of primary bell:
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Post by Orange on Jul 17, 2021 11:49:19 GMT -8
6 inch J is not suitable for any space imo, to little power.
what's the distance from top of heat riser to barrel?
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Post by Orange on May 14, 2021 13:49:17 GMT -8
here's the test I did: left: steel + waterglass right: steel + waterglass + chamotte powder they behave the same. heated up to ~200C, booth look ok and stick well to metal (I guess it's not off-gassing): heated up to ~400C, white thing formed and it peels off easily so it can't stand higher temperatures:
I may try that kaolin clay instead of chamotte powder..
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Post by Orange on May 14, 2021 13:36:08 GMT -8
that linseed oil really looks good, I'm just unsure how all those paints behave at higher temps: for above example here's Linseed Oil Paint SAFETY DATA SHEET:
fuegos had it tested and it obviously didn't boil or combust, only thing is unsure if it still off-gasses.
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Post by Orange on May 12, 2021 21:34:29 GMT -8
hi, very nice documentation (and a lot of work)! Sorry to hear it's not working as expected. Here are my observations: - that's a lot of mass around the core but I don't see insulation, maybe thats why it doesn't burn clean (some people have reported temerature in heat riser around 1000C) - those triangle pieces at the bottom of the firebox really take a lot of volume - is linseed oil on metal stable and doesn't off-gas when heated? - if you heat the room to the same temperature, how much less wood do you need compared to classic stove (with or without the bell)? - calculator here says you need 250mm system for 2-3 fires a day to heat the whole house batchrocket.eu/en/building#size
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Post by Orange on Apr 29, 2021 2:22:27 GMT -8
ok, I don't know if "chamotte powder" will work, it's made from fireclay and grounded clay tiles? It's the most common ingredieant for high-temp mortar when mixed with waterglass in 3:1 ratio.
and I'll have to check how well it sticks to metal, probably better than just clay.
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Post by Orange on Apr 25, 2021 3:25:07 GMT -8
thanks, I had to grind that down: @karl is there some simple solution regular people can use? For example painting metal with waterglass?
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Post by Orange on Apr 20, 2021 1:31:54 GMT -8
as with the most things are not black-white.
It's good to control and regulate if it lowers polution because general population is careless.
On the other hand we know that nwo cabal wants to use any excuse to bring total control over population and tax them to poverty (in Europe "citizens" are already giving ~50% of their income to goven-mind).
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Post by Orange on Apr 17, 2021 11:14:28 GMT -8
found one more problem - new steel is coated with some gray stuff whichs smells when heated. It can't be removed with chemicals or burnt away so I guess only thing that works in grinding.
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Post by Orange on Apr 11, 2021 10:34:22 GMT -8
It think it would be hard to get "Non toxic for direct food contact".
I'm also interested if modern heat-resistant paints don't have any off gassing?
If not than I'd rather leave bare metal or paint it with mud or woodash/coal.
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Post by Orange on Apr 11, 2021 10:23:19 GMT -8
tested few small pieces, this CFB is rated for max 1260C: burned them with small torch for about a minute, I think it also reach max around 1250C. There was a bad burn smell comming (binders or whaterver chemicals) so that's not good. Here are the samples, from left to right: 1. untreated cfb 2. cfb top layer painted with waterglass 3. cfb whole painted with waterglass
4. cfb top layer painted with clay+sand 5. cfb whole painted with clay+sand
Results: 1. untreated cfb - bit softer/weaker but not as bad as in foxtatic's video 2. cfb top layer painted with waterglass - hard top layer developed 3. cfb whole painted with waterglass - hard layer developed 4. cfb top layer painted with clay+sand - bit harder top layer developed but not hard as the waterglass 5. cfb whole painted with clay+sand - bit harder layer developed but not hard as the waterglass so I think it's defenetely worth coating cfb, even with mud. I don't know how much insulation value is lowered but I think not much since material is still very light. I think I'll paint all sides with waterglass and btw the one I used is like 30 years old
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Post by Orange on Apr 5, 2021 9:00:20 GMT -8
nice documentation! Since you're using half barrels, do you notice the difference in temp between bench's top-edge and top-middle?
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Post by Orange on Feb 26, 2021 7:03:57 GMT -8
nice to hear! Any more pics (from build or while it's running)?
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Post by Orange on Feb 21, 2021 9:47:53 GMT -8
But the more difficult part would be insulating it. Maybe I could just buy a bag of loose vermiculite and build a temporary container around the core and test it that way. BB doesn't require insulation, for example Batchblock has none. And I remember Peter said somewhere insulation is preferred after the first port.
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Post by Orange on Feb 20, 2021 11:38:38 GMT -8
Thanks for the info, now we know much higher temps can be reached. I've heard here that coating with waterglass helps against bending, maybe screwing them together also helps.
And CFB max temp rating is only for 15min or so and there should be max temp rating for continous use.
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