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Post by talltuk on Nov 9, 2013 16:38:55 GMT -8
Hi folks. Just got my first barrel back from sandblasting. Lovley mat rough finish on it. Its gonna sit outside in all weather at my mates field so wondering how to stop it rusting or if its worth bothering. Could get them to roof it but a bit of hassle. Thought about stove paint maybe.
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Nov 13, 2013 2:58:21 GMT -8
Carbon black, since its outdoors put a coat of oil or wax on it and heat it up, the black carbon left over will give some rust protection...
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Post by talltuk on Nov 13, 2013 13:35:33 GMT -8
Ok ta wolf. Thats usually stocked by woodburner suppliers yeah?
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Nov 14, 2013 7:38:43 GMT -8
Um no, I have used it for small parts before, you don't need to buy anything, I have had success using vaseline, wax, and vegetable oil.
AH the correct term to google is "oil blacking"...
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Nov 14, 2013 7:42:36 GMT -8
From another site "To blacken steel, with oil there are a lot of things that are on the net that are old BS passed down from the days the smith was next to a tar pit.
First: is DO NOT USE USED MOTOR OIL! In the last 25 years or so the material in the engines that the oil is used in are a lot of exotic stuff. Cadmium and all the other heavy type metals that wear away and are collected in the oil.
When you heat up and burn the oil the heavy metals can become airborne and you inhale them.
Second: there is no advantage to using used oil with the high carbon in it. You will not transfer more carbon to the surface skin of the metal. The heated oil layers a very thin coating of carbon on the surface.
Third: Don't use old oil as it might be a synthetic blended oil with the natural oils. The higher priced oils that are sold as specialty oils will say so the regular oils use it as an extender, to make the natural oil go longer therefore make a cheaper product.
Plus with all the additives that are in the oils, for this and that you have no idea what will be in the smoke and fumes you could be inhaling.
Fourth: This is simply a heat patina with an oil finish. And if that's the case, I would use Linseed oil over motor oil any day. After 500 degrees steel turns blue/black anyway. Dipping orange hot steel in oil will make it fairly brittle as well. I've used the linseed oil, or even other vegetable oils to get a blacken finish on forge work, with or without paraffin or bees wax. Depending on what kind of black you're looking for. The colors or depths of darkness can vary from brown through black.
In this English Art college text book. Here what was said about the linseed oil.
* It is less likely to burst into strong flame, like the other oils.
* Higher flash point or ignition point along with smoke point.
* If it does it can be put out easily .
* And yes at the orange heat or above the black heat range the idea, was I think from what I have read was to get carbon into the surface of the steel. But then you may have a problem with scale. It was liked by the wrought iron workers in England because it gave a good outdoor finish.
To coat it you have a number of options, be warned that this is an outside the shop exercise. Smoke, smell and more smoke!
Over a sand tray with the piece in the center using a torch. Then brush the linseed oil on with a natural bristle brush(hog bristle) rather than a synthetic one which would disappear! The same can be said if you wipe it on with rags and gloves over a sand tray. make sure the rags aren't synthetic as some of the material has a low melting point. Don't use the oven to heat the piece or reheat to give it a second coat. This can be very detrimental to your wallet. New stove oven and to your health and happiness!
Fifth: food use utensils the food grade oils with the peanut and canola oils having the highest smoke point temps. Than say a vegetable oil.
Whether it is for kitchen accessories, tools or anything in the house if you have little ones running around that put everything in their mouths do you want them sucking on heavy metals. Which are on the fireplace set?
You can think of it like seasoning a iron pan, you don't need to get it forging hot. You need to heat it up to open the pores if you will to accepts the oil carbon layer.
I have used the rag and wipe on method this works the best with straight simple items.
The natural bristles hog brushes work best for something with a lot of scroll and curlicues.
If it is a large involved item a weed burner and an oil type sprayer will work.
It is a false economy to think you are saving money by using the old motor oil, besides you can all was sneak some out of the kitchen or save the used fryer oil or some of it. But be aware using fryer oil does have it drawback the lingering smell attached to what you coat.
And finally if the item is given as a gift or sold at some point it will have to be reapplied or tell them to paste wax it every 6 months to a year. the heavier the use the more often. As in the old style ranch farm dinner triangle or gong."
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Post by talltuk on Nov 14, 2013 12:50:44 GMT -8
Ok so wipe the barrel down with veggy oil, light the stove and stand back as it smokes away. Nice!
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Nov 19, 2013 22:22:40 GMT -8
Yes an redo as needed...
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Post by talltuk on Nov 20, 2013 0:30:43 GMT -8
Excellent, thanks mate. That will be nice and easy for my friends to upkeep.
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Post by bogdan1109 on Jan 9, 2015 13:54:54 GMT -8
Good advice, I just finished a stove in the yard (for heat the doghouse) and causes problems with rust!
Thanks!
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