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Post by peterberg on Oct 29, 2013 4:57:27 GMT -8
I've removed the bell, and all is back to normal, drafting a smidge more. Max, maybe you've asked too much from the stove, bringing end temps down too much. Please buy a chimney thermometer and find out the minimum values. Being able to crank the lower end of the riser up to a nice red color is a good sign. |
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Post by satamax on Oct 29, 2013 11:03:16 GMT -8
I've removed the bell, and all is back to normal, drafting a smidge more. Max, maybe you've asked too much from the stove, bringing end temps down too much. Please buy a chimney thermometer and find out the minimum values. Being able to crank the lower end of the riser up to a nice red color is a good sign. Hi Peter. Thanks for the reply. I haven't managed to do the P channel implementation yet. It sure is nice to manage getting refractory tubes and mix to a red>orange collor. I'm absolutely sure you are right about asking the stove too much. I have the water heater "bell" in which the batch rocket is fitted , which is over 1 sqm isa. Then about 7 metres of 15cm diameter piping, 3 of which are buried now, and about 2m which are vertical. With about 1m and a half being 111mm tubing and crossing the wall. Then about 4ish of vertical brick chimney outside. And 3 elbows in the 15cm piping. and another elbow, plus the rotating thing outside. So it's on the verge of stalling for sure!  But it worked lovely today. Burning all day along. The earth around the pipe is drying, and the stones above were getting hans warm to the touch. When the earth is completely dry, it will work better. By then i will have cooler outside temps, and the thing shouls roar. For the moment, i have 15/17C° inside the workshop when i light it, and 8C° outside temp. By the end of november, it should drop to minus temps, at least in the mornings. Then i'll see how it works. |
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Post by satamax on Oct 30, 2013 9:20:56 GMT -8
Peter, i am under the impression it smokes a lot. Could it be that it lacks a P channel? Because dimension wise and insulation wise, i'm about good.
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Post by peterberg on Oct 30, 2013 12:40:51 GMT -8
It could be, yes. However, also a p-channel isn't a cure for all diseases. This stoves are vulnerable to low gas velocity. So, low chimney temperatures, low draft.
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Post by satamax on Oct 30, 2013 13:08:17 GMT -8
Thanks Peter. You're also more than certainly right about low velocity. I think i will insulate most of the exposed tube. Because the main aim is to have something which heats, but also is clean. I hate to see the soot in my tubes, which i have gathered with only few burns.
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Post by satamax on Nov 2, 2013 4:41:31 GMT -8
So, babling away. I have insulated 5 m of the vertical pipe, and horizontal transition to the 111mm tube. Working far better. But i find my exit temps too high. The last 153mm elbow is touchable, but it's hard to leave your hand on it at the top of the burn. And the soil around the buried tube isn't getting much heat. Tho, it might not be dry yet.
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Post by satamax on Nov 3, 2013 8:36:22 GMT -8
Peter, so 'ive been running it today.
And re reading some of the horizontal rocket thread, you asked at some point, if i was going to run the thing like an open fireplace. Which is the case.
I've drilled a tiny hole in the last elbow, and shoved a thermocouple with my fluke dmm.
20 minutes after wet wood startup (i know i shouldn't) 34 ish degrees. Stuffing some drier wood in it, 20 minutes later, i had around 56,ten minutes ago i had 77C°i've just reloaded with dry pine and larch, and it's 75.9C°. Conditions outside are windy, about 6 or 7 C°I still think it smokes too much. Tho, i should go up at the chimney top, and check what it is exactly. Forgot to say, that's about 7m away from the stove.
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Post by filespace on Nov 4, 2013 8:48:07 GMT -8
i think smooth interior stove piping will solve your flow problem once you get rid of all that flex dryer vent looking stuff.. should really speed up velocity of exhaust gasses.
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Post by satamax on Nov 4, 2013 11:00:40 GMT -8
i think smooth interior stove piping will solve your flow problem once you get rid of all that flex dryer vent looking stuff.. should really speed up velocity of exhaust gasses. Mate, that's no flex drier pipe. But proper double wall flex stainless tube for lining chimneys. |
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Post by satamax on Nov 9, 2013 21:29:42 GMT -8
So, latest modification. A Petter cha nnel    |
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Post by satamax on Nov 9, 2013 21:32:34 GMT -8
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Post by satamax on Nov 9, 2013 21:38:14 GMT -8
 It is soo weird. I'm under the impression it does something. But the 45° cut gap on the right side of the firebox doesn't seem to draw at all. |
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Post by satamax on Nov 10, 2013 10:41:48 GMT -8
So after further inspection, it draws a bit. I might enlarge the brick channel. And joint the tops.
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Post by satamax on Nov 10, 2013 11:58:33 GMT -8
By the way, first spell of proper winter, with 15cm of snow outside, and it seems to work wonders! And i can even cook in it!  |
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Post by satamax on Dec 14, 2013 12:03:44 GMT -8
Hi everybody! Well, a little update. The steel plate of the P channel started spalling today. I's still a pain in the --- to start when cold. I prime the tube with denatured alchohol, but it seems this is not enough yet. I might do some mods soon. And i made a new door, playing with my new toy, a 85 plasma cutter.  |
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But it worked lovely today. Burning all day along. The earth around the pipe is drying, and the stones above were getting hans warm to the touch. When the earth is completely dry, it will work better. By then i will have cooler outside temps, and the thing shouls roar. For the moment, i have 15/17C° inside the workshop when i light it, and 8C° outside temp. By the end of november, it should drop to minus temps, at least in the mornings. Then i'll see how it works. 
