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Post by satamax on Sept 15, 2013 13:31:10 GMT -8
So, i went back to the workshop, to light up that thing again, and make proper videos.
So would you say rockety enough?
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Post by PeterG on Sept 19, 2013 0:09:10 GMT -8
That is well cooool, or maybe hot ;-)) I can understand your excitement.
Now this type of stove is becoming more known about (thanks in no small part to this forum imho) it will be interesting to see how people conceive their own versions.
Power to your rocket!
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Post by satamax on Sept 21, 2013 5:41:37 GMT -8
So, plumbed into the workshop.  I have too much tube imho.  But being old mews, i have soil just under the tube. I might take the pick and shovel, and dig, instead of going up.  I would shorten the tube of may be 3 metres. I don't think it would impede much with the draft. And gather a bit of heat for the messy side of the room. Your opinion thought gentlemens. Do i make a double barrel bell where the elbow is, before going in the ground, or do i skip this stage? |
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Post by matthewwalker on Sept 21, 2013 7:49:30 GMT -8
After looking at what you already have working there, I don't know what to say Max. That is a crazy exhaust path man! Through your shelves and woodpile? Are you saying you could dig and go straight to the wood stack there from the elbow, in the dirt floor? That seems better, but man, I don't know. You are in uncharted territory my friend.
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Post by satamax on Sept 21, 2013 8:11:51 GMT -8
Thanks a lot Matt for your reply. Well, i would go across the room underground. Then use a slanted tube against the wall to reach the hole through the wall behind the wood rack. The wood have been touching the pipe for two years, and hasn't scorched it yet? Tho the output of this one is higher. I don't want to bring the rack forward, but i might have to. About wild tube path, i know, but i'm a tennent, and can't do much modifications. Otherwise, i would be through the chimney above my bench on the left of teh stove. But this would mean going through the vault! My landlord doesn't want me to do this  |
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Post by matthewwalker on Sept 21, 2013 9:29:52 GMT -8
I understand Max, and I wasn't really thinking that the path through the wood stack was dangerous. You've got so much exposed flue before it gets there, frankly I'm surprised it still has enough heat to draw. One thing you might consider, since it's working well currently, is a bypass valve that would allow you to run it as is to get it drawing, then bring either some additional mass or just more barrel radiators on line after the draft is strong. So, at the elbow there, put in two T's with a damper in between. Run the send/return loop into a barrel bell, or some mass, or something. That way you can run as is, then flip the damper and get some heat into the workshop. I set up a system like that coming out of my Walker Stove in a friend's place, who has a really tall stack. It's pretty great, once it's pulling, it can handle a long flue run, or a big radiator.
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Post by satamax on Sept 21, 2013 10:36:32 GMT -8
Matthew, frankly, i need to shorten that tube. It smokes back like mad when it's windy. And often, when it's snowing here, there's southern wind. So, i need shorter tube. I haven't started digging since i have a bad cold. But i'll see what tomorow brings.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2013 6:24:57 GMT -8
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Post by satamax on Sept 22, 2013 7:38:44 GMT -8
Karl, not working, i've tried many. my landlord hasn't let me raise the chimney above the wall, so when i have southern wind, i get overpresure hence smoke. I have this on the wall. I might try to add a motor to it, so i get to heat up the workshop on my days off (i work for the chairlift company in the winter) , even if it's windy.  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2013 8:33:27 GMT -8
Karl, not working, i've tried many. my landlord hasn't let me raise the chimney above the wall, so when i have southern wind, i get overpresure hence smoke. The rotating cap you have on the picture works in a different way. Would likely work better if not hanging down. A weathercock style wind directional chimney cap should work better even if you can not raise the chimney above the wall. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOvtBq8R9rs |
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Post by satamax on Oct 11, 2013 2:27:01 GMT -8
So guys, i've been running many times this thing in the workshop! It gets too hot in there imho! 26c° the other day. I'm nearly heating the whole of 150sqm i have with it There's one thing i like. When the fire goes out, the bell stays warm for three to five hours. After five hours, you still can feel the metal being a smidge hotter than the room. I have to thank Peter for leading me towards bells. |
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Post by peterberg on Oct 12, 2013 10:29:25 GMT -8
Glad to be of any help.
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Post by satamax on Oct 15, 2013 22:32:40 GMT -8
So, for the ones intrested.
My bell on the outside top ranges from 63C° 1/4h after lighting to 120C° at the top of the burn. Spiking up and down 80C° when there's just embers left, to 110C° with the flames and so on. By 18h yesterday, i had no embers left, having left the fire to die, about an hour, an hour and a half before. At 21h30 the bell was still warm to the touch. I'd say in the 30/40C° range.
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Post by satamax on Oct 28, 2013 13:05:52 GMT -8
Doom! I had a working system, and now it's not anymore.    I burried a pipe, to replace the one which was going over the laders. And added a barrel bell. Well, it's not working at all. Acrid smoke. No draft etc. Tomorow, i will remove the bell. See if what i have just in tube is good enough. |
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Post by satamax on Oct 29, 2013 4:00:18 GMT -8
If ever anyone follows my babling. I'ce removed the bell, and all is back to normal, drafting a smidge more. Or at least i have the impression. I've removed about 1m of tube. Compared to the pipe going at the ceiling. And i have noticed something. The refractory tube and concrete i have used to assemble this goes to bright red! Notice the fact that there's no difference in collor between the back of the pipe and the front?  Sorry tho, my phone cam takes bad pics, making this purple, when it's orange in reality. |
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