Post by matthewwalker on Sept 21, 2013 7:49:30 GMT -8
After looking at what you already have working there, I don't know what to say Max. That is a crazy exhaust path man! Through your shelves and woodpile? Are you saying you could dig and go straight to the wood stack there from the elbow, in the dirt floor? That seems better, but man, I don't know. You are in uncharted territory my friend.
Thanks a lot Matt for your reply. Well, i would go across the room underground. Then use a slanted tube against the wall to reach the hole through the wall behind the wood rack. The wood have been touching the pipe for two years, and hasn't scorched it yet? Tho the output of this one is higher.
I don't want to bring the rack forward, but i might have to. About wild tube path, i know, but i'm a tennent, and can't do much modifications. Otherwise, i would be through the chimney above my bench on the left of teh stove. But this would mean going through the vault! My landlord doesn't want me to do this
Post by matthewwalker on Sept 21, 2013 9:29:52 GMT -8
I understand Max, and I wasn't really thinking that the path through the wood stack was dangerous. You've got so much exposed flue before it gets there, frankly I'm surprised it still has enough heat to draw. One thing you might consider, since it's working well currently, is a bypass valve that would allow you to run it as is to get it drawing, then bring either some additional mass or just more barrel radiators on line after the draft is strong. So, at the elbow there, put in two T's with a damper in between. Run the send/return loop into a barrel bell, or some mass, or something. That way you can run as is, then flip the damper and get some heat into the workshop. I set up a system like that coming out of my Walker Stove in a friend's place, who has a really tall stack. It's pretty great, once it's pulling, it can handle a long flue run, or a big radiator.
Matthew, frankly, i need to shorten that tube. It smokes back like mad when it's windy. And often, when it's snowing here, there's southern wind. So, i need shorter tube. I haven't started digging since i have a bad cold. But i'll see what tomorow brings.
So guys, i've been running many times this thing in the workshop! It gets too hot in there imho! 26c° the other day. I'm nearly heating the whole of 150sqm i have with it There's one thing i like. When the fire goes out, the bell stays warm for three to five hours. After five hours, you still can feel the metal being a smidge hotter than the room.
I have to thank Peter for leading me towards bells.
My bell on the outside top ranges from 63C° 1/4h after lighting to 120C° at the top of the burn. Spiking up and down 80C° when there's just embers left, to 110C° with the flames and so on. By 18h yesterday, i had no embers left, having left the fire to die, about an hour, an hour and a half before. At 21h30 the bell was still warm to the touch. I'd say in the 30/40C° range.
I burried a pipe, to replace the one which was going over the laders. And added a barrel bell. Well, it's not working at all. Acrid smoke. No draft etc. Tomorow, i will remove the bell. See if what i have just in tube is good enough.
I'ce removed the bell, and all is back to normal, drafting a smidge more. Or at least i have the impression. I've removed about 1m of tube. Compared to the pipe going at the ceiling. And i have noticed something. The refractory tube and concrete i have used to assemble this goes to bright red!
Notice the fact that there's no difference in collor between the back of the pipe and the front?
Sorry tho, my phone cam takes bad pics, making this purple, when it's orange in reality.
flybywire: Glass window from an old washing machine is designed to take high temps. Cheap solution to your need.
Jan 27, 2019 0:10:58 GMT -8
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jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
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Sept 14, 2020 7:29:27 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: Hi there. I was directed this way by folks on the Permies.com website and am hoping I can get some information on how a total newbie can get started designing, siting, building, and not-dying-in-a-horrible-house-fire with a new RMH in a 160-year old home
Oct 21, 2020 6:52:10 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: The people over there recommended either a 6" batchbox or an 8" J-tube. I don't know what those are but am going to try to figure that out. What I need is a blueprint that I can scale to fit the need for my house. I have something likne 5000 square feet
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:00 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: but I do not need to heat all of it by any means. probably only need to heat half of that, maybe less.
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:15 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: moreover, the house has 3 storeys (large attic) so I assume if I get very efficient heating on the ground floor, that will go a long way toward heating the upstairs as well, no?
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:59 GMT -8