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Post by lennyk on May 14, 2013 17:08:44 GMT -8
Hello,
I just welding up a 1/4" thick 4" hollow square steel tube rocket stove similar to the uninsulated ones sold commercially.
Somehow it is not rocketing, do you guys think 1/4" is too thick
to work uninsulated ?
I also observed that depending on how the wind blows the draft is affected badly and can shut it down.
Any suggestions ?
thanks,
L
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Post by peterberg on May 16, 2013 2:07:22 GMT -8
Lennyk,
You have to provide more information, otherwise you won't get any answers. Like size, length, pictures. And what's your motivation to leave out insulation?
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Post by lennyk on May 16, 2013 2:25:20 GMT -8
Ok, I've attached a pic.
tunnel size is 4" square
From bottom to top it is 15" tall,
chute is 9" long on bottom side and is at 45 degrees.
I was using some 1 1/2" pieces of oak barrel.
Reason for going uninsulated was I saw a few other people made similar ones and put them directly under a grill to make hamburgers etc.
Suggestions ?
thanks,
L
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Post by lennyk on May 16, 2013 16:01:12 GMT -8
The good news is I was able to get it rocketing.
I was using oak barrel staves, about 1" thick and wider
apparently hard for these big pieces to get lit.
Cut strips about 3/8 and everything is ok now.
Using newspaper to start but it is a little messy as the bits of newspaper ash fly around.
I may make a little stand below to put a can and light some methylated spirits there.
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Post by peterberg on May 17, 2013 2:31:10 GMT -8
So, you get the thing going by providing more burning surface. By doing so, the temperature has gone up and the combustion improved. When you are satisfied with that, everything would be OK, isn't it?
Another way to achieve an even better result is to insulate the riser and chute assembly. The combustion temperature will be even higher then, more hydrocarbons will burn away. The net result would be more heat, using the same amount of fuel.
Yes, I know, this bare steel pipe will produce heat. A lot of people are satisfied with 50% of the possible result, wasting the rest. That wouldn't be my choice but it's your stove, you have to do what you see fit.
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Post by lennyk on May 17, 2013 3:31:06 GMT -8
agreed, it is really a prototype and I used some extra 1/4" plate I had and it is very heavy.
I will build another properly when I get some thinner material like 1/8 or 3/16 and make it insulated with a Freon tank.
as well as make the upper chimney of thinner material for less weight.
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Post by Donkey on May 17, 2013 6:23:04 GMT -8
When you get it working really well, it is going to burn through the metal in a short time.
Maybe not the one you are currently working with (no insulation, short heat riser) but once you insulate, make a slightly longer heat riser and figure out the right wood configuration, it'll burn itself up..
At that time, you'll be so impressed with it, you'll be back to build it out of something else..
I recommend you just start at that place, forget the metal, build your next one in a different way.
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Post by mechartnik on May 17, 2013 18:02:46 GMT -8
I'm also using steel pipe in some of my experiments...here's the trick (although you loose CSA): sleeve the INSIDE with refractory material - insulation where you need it, and saves the steel structure.
Andor
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Post by misterjimbo on Apr 13, 2014 18:30:16 GMT -8
Haven't built one yet but I am gathering parts. I have prepared one with the 8" chimney made of round 1/4" by 3 1/8" ID diameter pipe. I was planning to join it to a piece of horizontal 4" square steel and use a piece of perforated stainless for the wood to burn off of.
What part of a good, hot burning stove burns out? The chimney? How do you sleeve it with refractory material?
As long as the inch-squared chimney dimension is equal to the exhaust space under the pan will it 'rocket' correctly? Does too much in flow air space mess up the works? My container is an old steel fire extinguisher.
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