Hey there. I am ready to start the casting adventure. Could you please share some of your experience. I will go for the mould that has been published by Peter, since his advices tell me that it is better for the cast and to get the air out...
i just have a technical question. If i pour the cement to one part of the mold, then i will have to cover the other one, and attach it with some screws?
And how the concrete which will be to much will get out from the mold? And also how the air will get out if it will become solid kind of a box? Should i make some holes in a side of one mold?
Robert, I'm not sure I do understand what you mean. Anyway, casting the firebox and riser half is done with one side open. In effect, a box with no lid on it. The riser is thought to have a fill piece, when the complete mode is filled up to a certain level you have to mount that using screws or other means and pour the rest. Could you post a picture so we could see what the problem could be?
I am sorry. My English is not so good, sometimes i have problems with expressings thought and ideas. But pictures are very helpfull, so i will try using them to describe what i mean.
My questions might be very simple for those who did casting before and they may seem to be an obvious thing. But lets try...
I want to use the mold design that was published by Peter which consist of two pieces.
1. The first piece i just put on the table. This is simple:)
2. Then i pour estimated amount of the concrete (with just a little bit more, to be sure it will be enough)
3. And now i place the other part on top...
and now i have few question about this stage: - how i will get rid of an excess cement? should i make some wholes in the top of the second piece? - if there will be no problem to get out of the air bubbles from the casting if the whole thing will be "closed" in the box?
Sorry for asking such a basic stuff but i am learning and i really appreciated this place and patient teachers like all of you here:)
Robert, Leave the lid out entirely. Your drawing do contain two green pieces. One is the right hand side bottom fill part. Glue or screw that to the side of the box. Divide the other piece in three separate parts. Fix the rear fill part of the riser to the side of the box. Leave the middle part out, the third part could be mounted as a bridge. The trick is to fix the bridge to the box, by means of a piece of plywood which can be screwed to the edges of the box.
This way, you should be able to pour the whole piece without a lid at all. You do need a vibrating table of some sort. When the refractory is properly vibrated and is dry enough, there shouldn't a problem with filling one part higher than the other. In order to avoid difficulties however, you could use a separate block during pouring to restrict the level in the riser part.
This drawing is not to scale or whatever, just to give you the general idea.
Been making the frame and door for the stove with a friend and am now building the test stove in the shed before it goes in the house so here are some photos.
The stove will sit on a wooden floor hence the frame and insulation. Made from pallet racking. Clearance is 8 inches (200mm)
Door... decided not to have a window and has rotary air control.
Door and frame. Made from 'scrap' checkerplate. Thank goodness for plasma cutters!
Base sits on 3mm ceramic paper and is laid dry using 64mm fire brick. Remainder will be using 76mm on edge using clay slip. I haven't included a clean out as this will be taken apart after testing. Space on front is for a shelf to load wood/ash removal.
Last Edit: May 6, 2014 3:04:34 GMT -8 by morticcio: Updated photo location
A couple of courses of firebrick later... I'm not a bricklayer! It's all level but wider by 10mm at the front :-)
Finished... the lid was salvaged from a skip (dumpster). It's the base for a pizza oven. Almost a perfect fit
The left hand side...
Door with slate lintel. The shelf is stacked dry at the moment so isn't level.
Fire started okay - and once warmed up it burnt well. Haven't got a flue gas analyser so unable to take any readings. My digital thermometer is missing so can't take any exit temperature readings.
Once lit the smoke was coming out all the cracks so I'm going to have to use slightly thicker mortar bed when installed in the house and ensure I'm more careful laying the bricks. I'm intending to plaster using a clay/sand mix to finish it off so this should seal it too.
Last Edit: May 6, 2014 3:12:26 GMT -8 by morticcio: Photos location updated
i have two questions. 1. what about this steel frame kind of thing. The one that binds the core together, and the frame of the doors are connected to it. I am wonder how it will react with temperature? will it not bend? You think there will be no problems with doors being "pushed" out?
2. What is that dark piece over the door frame... its some kind of a support for the next layer of bricks as i suppose... what is this made from?
3. what is teh ISA of the bell?
4. You would not like to place the oven there?
and yes... i am jelaous, waiting for the day when i build my bell rocket
Robert, thanks for comments. Here's some answers Q1. what about this steel frame kind of thing. The one that binds the core together, and the frame of the doors are connected to it. I am wonder how it will react with temperature? will it not bend? You think there will be no problems with doors being "pushed" out? A1. The steel we used for the door is heavy, heavier than it needs to be, but was scrap hanging around in the shed for past 10 years. We welded 40mm angle iron to (hopefully) prevent any warping. I have allowed for expansion and used superwool/ceramic paper as gaskets where possible. Will be firing the stove daily over the next week to check for any stress/cracks etc. The steel frame & perlite is great too - the underside is cool to touch even when the stove is an inferno.
Q2. What is that dark piece over the door frame... its some kind of a support for the next layer of bricks as i suppose... what is this made from? A2. Its Welsh slate, approx. 70mm thick. It was left over from the window cills (or sill) when we did the barn up 12 years ago. I had a 450mm firebrick I could have used but found this piece of slate and thought it fitted it well with the stove and door. The shelf below the door is the same material.
Q3. What is the ISA of the bell? A3. Approx. 5m² as I stacked some additional firebrick behind the riser.
Q4. You would not like to place the oven there? A4. I have thought about an oven so there might be one in final installation! We did make pizza in the stove last night :-)
I couldn't wait to build my own bell stove either! It has taken over 9 months to get to this stage. I must've build this stove in my head a thousand times. It was great to eventually light it for real :-)
Many thanks to everyone on here for their plans, ideas & inspiration. And a massive thanks to Andy for helping with the moulds, frame & door.
Much appreciated. The door works great. I don't really miss the window - you know by the noise it makes if it is running well and you can see the flames through the grill if you really need to! Handle stays cool to touch which I wasn't expecting. Also, a clean white firebox must be a good sign, but would love to test combustion efficiency etc so if anyone near Bristol has a flue gas analyser please get in touch!
One modification - when the P-channel slider was closed there was no noticeable difference in the rocket roar so I added a strip of rope to seal between the top of the firebox and the P-channel. It seems to have done the trick - now when the slider is closed you can hear the rocket roar lower significantly. This also remains much cooler than the rest of the door.
those are one beautiful stove Morticio,clean design.One thing ill sugest for the finnal plaster and thats to add some kind of mesh in to the plaster.Wire mesh or special mesh for heaters.Because its single skin heater made out of fire bricks it will be expanding and contracting quite a bit so ill for sure add the mesh it there and prepare my self for tiny cracks in plaster.So again realy nice heater.
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
michaelegan: i am unable to open the sketchup files on my mac. I used sketchup a few years back but apparently the company now requires a subscription. does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to use the program or how to view pictures without spending money?
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mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
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deadstarsstillburn: Hi there. I was directed this way by folks on the Permies.com website and am hoping I can get some information on how a total newbie can get started designing, siting, building, and not-dying-in-a-horrible-house-fire with a new RMH in a 160-year old home
Oct 21, 2020 6:52:10 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: The people over there recommended either a 6" batchbox or an 8" J-tube. I don't know what those are but am going to try to figure that out. What I need is a blueprint that I can scale to fit the need for my house. I have something likne 5000 square feet
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:00 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: but I do not need to heat all of it by any means. probably only need to heat half of that, maybe less.
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:15 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: moreover, the house has 3 storeys (large attic) so I assume if I get very efficient heating on the ground floor, that will go a long way toward heating the upstairs as well, no?
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:59 GMT -8
BenAlexanderT: Happy new year everybody. I wish you the best
Dec 31, 2020 15:06:14 GMT -8
Solomon: Anybody in Southern Oregon, in Jackson or Josephine counties?
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gnomedome: i realsie this is from 2009
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gnomedome: i realize this is from 2009 id love to see the photos from this ..as im looking to build a sauna soon similar to this .... if anyody sees this post email@example.com..... the photos in this post did not show up
Apr 14, 2021 8:32:00 GMT -8