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Post by Vortex on Apr 21, 2017 1:38:53 GMT -8
Sorry guys. Spring's a very busy time of year for me, and the stove lighting season is almost over here, so it's on hold for a while. I'll probably get some bit's done over the summer and will update the thread then, but realistically it'll be late summer before I really get back on it. Will have to be working ready for next winter though  |
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Post by gugaiz on May 7, 2017 10:50:49 GMT -8
Hi Vortex, Thanks for sharing the info about the door, it is really nice. I am trying to make my own now and I have some questions... I was wondering if you have any picture of the back of that door. I am not sure how you hold the bottom part of the glass. how did you make this door airtight?. How much space did you leave on each side for the glass to expand? What I am trying to figure out is the glass size considering you only have 10mm on each side. Thanks! |
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Post by Vortex on May 7, 2017 14:30:53 GMT -8
Hi Gugiaz, I don't have a picture of the back of that door, and it was for a customer so unfortunately I cant just take one for you. The bottom of the glass sat into a little channel. I left 2mm either side of the glass for the rope seal and 1mm for expansion, so total glass size is 6mm less than the size of the hole. The rope seal for the glass is 12mm wide by 2mm thick, it's sticky on one side. You stick it around the edge of the glass, the glass is 4mm thick so it covers 4mm of the edges of the glass on each side. This is a diagram of how the glass was held in my original stove door - it's posted on one of the pages of the thread somewhere: www.vftshop.com/images/others/Stove/doorframedetails.jpgThis is a picture of the back of an oven door I made for someone. It shows how the glass is held in and how the seal works. (The stove doors I've made so far haven't had seals as they've relied on the leakage around the top edges for the heated secondary air). The metal I use now to hold the glass in the doors is made from 20mm X 2mm square hollow section steel, cut down into angle pieces 20mm x 10mm, drilled and held in place by hexhead self-tappers. The channel for the seal I made by welding a strip of 5mm thick steel down the inside edge of the door, so it left a channel about 8mm wide by 5mm deep. The seal is 10mm round firerope.  |
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eng
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Post by eng on May 11, 2017 1:07:57 GMT -8
Vortex
I like your use of plate bolted to the angle iron frame for the carcass of your stove. It makes it easier to open up to make modifications than a welded one,if you feel the need to later. A nice neat looking project. Thanks for sharing it.
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Post by Vortex on May 13, 2017 4:45:21 GMT -8
Thanks for your comment, Eng. That was my thinking as well, we'll have to see how it works out in practice. The Plate is actually not bolted to the frame, the only bolts are the 16 holding the frame together. The steel plates are just held in place by the bricks pushing them against the inside of the angle.
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Post by Vortex on Sept 11, 2017 11:12:07 GMT -8
Summer is over, time to get the new stove finished... Insulation pieces are all cut now. To give it a bit of extra strength I Added some 2mm steel sheets to back the insulation on the bottom and right-hand sides. The cast dense firebox pieces will fit inside of the calcium silicate insulation boards. The ash-trap hole in the insulation still needs cutting out but I haven't finalised the size and position yet. Ash-box frame is all cut and pieced together, just needs welding up.    Cleanout at back of ash-box, made out of a small brick with countersunk eyelet screw in it, so you can put your finger into it and pull the brick out.  Edit: Ashbox frame welded up now   |
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dkeav
New Member
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Post by dkeav on Sept 11, 2017 11:46:57 GMT -8
I'm curious what is the max temp the calcium silicate board is rated for? Of the products I see available to me, they max out at 1700F/972C. I suppose that would be close for the firebox, not enough for the riser areas though.
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Post by Dan (Upstate NY, USA) on Sept 12, 2017 0:58:31 GMT -8
Will this be a one for one replacement of the old stove or are you building it for someone/someplace else?
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Post by Vortex on Sept 12, 2017 1:47:43 GMT -8
I'm curious what is the max temp the calcium silicate board is rated for? Of the products I see available to me, they max out at 1700F/972C. I suppose that would be close for the firebox, not enough for the riser areas though. It says a 1000*C armilcfs.com/pdf/super%20isol.pdfIt's used as a backing insulation to dense firebrick on pottery kilns, so should be fine how I'm using it. It wouldn't be any use in a firebox without protection as it has no resistance to abrasion at all. You can saw through it with a blunt handsaw with no effort. It's compressive strength is good though. I tried an offcut with a blowtorch, it glowed red in about 30 seconds and I could keep my hand on the other side which was only warm to the touch. It's structural characteristics didn't seem to change after being heated. Will this be a one for one replacement of the old stove or are you building it for someone/someplace else? It's a replacement for my original stove. The firebricks in the firebox are disintegrating at the back right-hand side, so it would need rebuilding anyway. I originally built it as a prototype with the intention of it lasting one winter and it's done 10. The fundamental design turned out to be the best all round stove I've ever used, since then I've just been tweaking it and experimenting with different ways of building it. |
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Post by Vortex on Oct 18, 2017 10:47:32 GMT -8
Casting of the firebox pieces took a lot longer than I'd expected, but they're all done and in place now. Also got the ash trap hole cut out.   Tertiary air channels (Still needs entry hole making through the right-hand side wall). 7 holes going down through the firebox roof and 7 coming out the front end in the throat. I used 1/4" basket willow pieces to form the holes, the downward ones I was able to pull out, the ones on the throat will be left to burn out.  Bottom of the secondary burn chamber forms the top cover for the tertiary air channels. It's cast from a mix of perlite, fireclay and calcium-aluminate cement, with a skin of just fireclay and CA cement on the top.  All in position. Lintel will have calcium silicate board insulation in front of it. I probably should have left room to insulate the front end of the side and grate castings... Will have to think about that.  I have all the materials for the secondary burn chamber, so it shouldn't take long to put together. More soon hopefully... |
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Post by matthewwalker on Oct 18, 2017 11:18:06 GMT -8
Looking really good so far.
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Post by patamos on Oct 21, 2017 21:59:22 GMT -8
Trev,
Please say more about the tertiary air channels.
Am i correct in guessing that they are pointing forward down through the top plate ?
I take it you have fit a flat plate atop those corrugated shapes to create air passages?
Where are they coming from and how do they get that far?
Apologies if i missed this news earlier in the thread...
Getting ready to shape some such set up myself over the next two weeks. Have been thinking of hacking up an old kiln shelf to create a 1" thick sloping top plate that slots into the dados in my pre-cast sides. But haven't thought too much about tertiary air.
Interesting to read through some of the MHA literature on standardized performance tests of various designs. It appears the font to back and up trajectory of gasses tends to fare well (sometimes even best) in the smaller cookstove applications.
These are signs that you did a good job of researching as you nutted out your original design.
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Post by Vortex on Oct 22, 2017 5:48:43 GMT -8
Hi Pat. This picture below should make it easier to understand. The air enters through a hole in the right-hand side of the stove (yet to be made) marked with the big circle and arrow. The 7 smaller circles mark where there are vertical holes going down through. The 2 rows of 7 black dots linked by dotted lines are where there are horizontal holes going through and coming out on the front edge in the throat. I used basket willow sticks about 1/4" wide to make them (to burn out on first firing). To cast the top I put a thin piece of sheet metal over the surface and laid a sheet of plastic over the top of that, then just troweled the mix into it (For the mix I used perlite, fireclay and some CA Cement.) After 2 days I lifted it out by the edges of the plastic, removed the metal and plastic and laid the cast back in.  Edit: Had to lift it out again so took a picture of the underside, willow sticks were loose so I pulled them out:  I built metal box stoves in the 80's, 90's & early Naughties, and learned a lot about how wood burns that way. Then I got interested in masonry stoves and later rockets stoves, so I'm incorporating stuff from way back. |
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Post by Vortex on Nov 10, 2017 11:44:18 GMT -8
Some more progress made on the new stove. Internal chimney wrapped in 1" ceramic fibre blanket to reduce heat loss from the bell.  Then the whole thing wrapped in aluminium tape (used to seal the joints on stainless steel stove pipes), to protect it and stop the horrible ceramic dust getting everywhere.  Side panel off to cut out the hole for the tertiary air inlet.  Secondary burn chamber without the top  Looking down the secondary burn chamber (Brick above lintel removed). Tertiary air holes in the throat. Right and left 'Swirlers' to induce inward flowing vortexes to mix gases.   Ceramic fibre board top on secondary burn chamber  Front panel, firebox and bypass lever holes cut out and in position.  |
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Post by matthewwalker on Nov 10, 2017 18:04:52 GMT -8
Very very nice work Trev, it looks like it's going to be a heck of a stove. New location as well? You aren't going to move that beast over, are you?
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