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Post by Vortex on Mar 1, 2017 10:53:35 GMT -8
Owning only nine of these very heavy magnetite bricks I'm jealous of the sheer MASS in that contraption! Rocket stove Lego. I have 90 of them now, in 3 different sizes  |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 1, 2017 12:01:39 GMT -8
I cant find much info there, but they sell stove plans so they'll not be giving a lot away. Did notice they say they use secondary air up through the ashbox, like I do. They also say they experimented with positioning of secondary air up the sides of the firebox behind the door, but no mention of the results. Glad to see they're using glass in the door now, it makes such a huge difference. |
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Post by fzurzolo on Mar 1, 2017 12:37:51 GMT -8
Thanks Vortex and Drooster.
Yeah I didn't realize you were gonna cast some of the stove sections in the stuff. In that case I'm guessing you're better off without lime. You can start drive off the CO2 at temps that might be possible in your stove. But as Drooster said, it's great for "lowish temp" stuff where "meltingness" can be avoided
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Post by 1967gto on Mar 1, 2017 17:44:50 GMT -8
I built a rocket stove with perlite and castable refractory. That was the best insulated firebox ever, but not at all durable. What if you coated it ITC 100 HT? Would that keep it from getting all torn up from loading wood?
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Post by Vortex on Mar 2, 2017 2:07:13 GMT -8
The inside of the firebox will be 1.5" / 25mm thick dense castable refractory slabs, with the same thickness insulating refractory layers on the outside of that. It will all be dry stacked in position, so each piece holds the next in place. I did a rough sketch of how it will go together and posted it a few pages back: www.vftshop.com/images/others/Stove/disasemblable.jpgMy present stove can do those long slow gasification burns because the mass of the firebox stores a lot of heat, which radiates back into the fire in the latter stages of the burn. You do have to get a very hot fierce fire going at the beginning to charge up the mass though, and if it's not hot enough or you try and shut the primary air down too soon, it will crash and smoulder. My thinking is there should be a happy medium of enough mass to hold the heat for the gasification mode but insulated so the heat's not leaking away into the rest of the stove mass. I hope it will make it easier and quicker to get it up to gasification temperature. Time will tell. |
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Post by 1967gto on Mar 2, 2017 7:09:08 GMT -8
Ahh. I get it now. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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Post by patamos on Mar 3, 2017 8:24:48 GMT -8
I built a rocket stove with perlite and castable refractory. That was the best insulated firebox ever, but not at all durable. What if you coated it ITC 100 HT? Would that keep it from getting all torn up from loading wood? If you mix equal parts sodium silicate and fine sand, and may be some water (depending on how liquid your SoSi is in the first place…) then smear it on the clay perlite it will create a fairly durable hard shell. I usually go about 1/4" thick. |
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Post by patamos on Mar 3, 2017 8:30:45 GMT -8
I cant find much info there, but they sell stove plans so they'll not be giving a lot away. Did notice they say they use secondary air up through the ashbox, like I do. They also say they experimented with positioning of secondary air up the sides of the firebox behind the door, but no mention of the results. Glad to see they're using glass in the door now, it makes such a huge difference. Ya i guess he has to make a living off his innovations. I know for a while he was trying out Matt's rear side exit, ala batch box sidewinders. But i think the front to back to upper front burn path you have makes good sense. Reviewing the MHA test results of various sized cores, it appears to offer the most efficient burn in smaller boxes that are deeper than they are tall. I'm mostly curious about how Max has crafted the cook deck. He also used it in a demo build up at MHA Wildacres gathering last year. |
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Post by matthewwalker on Mar 3, 2017 10:07:23 GMT -8
for a while he was trying out Matt's rear side exit, To my knowledge he's never tried mine Pat. I met with Max and Lasse when they built the one in Max's garage using a sidewinder similar to Shilo and Adiel's, but without prior knowledge so they weren't aware of some of that progression. I tested theirs with the testo and returned home to design a clean cook stove core. I have shared the walker riserless with them but they have not built one to my knowledge. |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 3, 2017 10:26:25 GMT -8
I know for a while he was trying out Matt's rear side exit Sounds a bit risque  |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 3, 2017 10:40:17 GMT -8
I'm mostly curious about how Max has crafted the cook deck. He also used it in a demo build up at MHA Wildacres gathering last year. The radial lines help stop the cooktop surface bulging from the thermal expansion above the hottest parts. The lines will just be ground in to the surface. My present stove top bulges badly because it's too thin. On the new stove I'm going for as much mass in a small package as possible, so it will have a 10mm thick steel top with large lift out expansion plates to allow quick access to the internals, this solves the problem just as well. If you mix equal parts sodium silicate and fine sand, and may be some water (depending on how liquid your SoSi is in the first place…) then smear it on the clay perlite it will create a fairly durable hard shell. I usually go about 1/4" thick. I'll have to see if I can get hold of some sodium silicate, apparently a pottery supply place a friend deals with sells it by the liter in two different thicknesses. I guess the thicker one just has less water? |
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Post by patamos on Mar 6, 2017 9:24:20 GMT -8
for a while he was trying out Matt's rear side exit, To my knowledge he's never tried mine Pat. I met with Max and Lasse when they built the one in Max's garage using a sidewinder similar to Shilo and Adiel's, but without prior knowledge so they weren't aware of some of that progression. I tested theirs with the testo and returned home to design a clean cook stove core. I have shared the walker riserless with them but they have not built one to my knowledge. My apologies Matt. I remember your mention of being involved in their testing. But forgot that your 'eureka' on the riser-less core followed from that time. |
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Post by ilpiccolo on Mar 14, 2017 8:21:56 GMT -8
On the new stove I'm going for as much mass in a small package as possible, so it will have a 10mm thick steel top with large lift out expansion plates to allow quick access to the internals, have you a picture of the new cooktop? What if instead of using a 10 mm slab will use two 5 mm overlapping? (Maybe with a little 'in the midst of ashes) |
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Post by Vortex on Mar 14, 2017 10:22:46 GMT -8
At the moment the new stove top is just a slab of 10mm steel plate, so not much to look at. I would think 2 pieces of 5mm steel on top of each other would bow up from the heat more than a single piece of 10mm, as the 2 pieces could slide over each other so wouldn't have as much rigidity as a single piece. The 10mm steel plate will sit on top of the firebrick under the angle steel, (with a square hole for the internal chimney to come through level with the top). There is exactly 10mm gap between the top of the firebrick and the underside of the angle steel. I was thinking I'd have to have a ceramic paper seal between them to allow for the slight variability in the firebrick sizes but it turned out perfectly. I wasn't happy with the first internal chimney that I made, the 2mm steel I used was too light for the job, so I got hold of a length of 150mm x 150mm x 5mm hollow section steel and made a better one. I finished making the bypass damper yesterday.  |
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Post by fzurzolo on Apr 20, 2017 13:51:17 GMT -8
Hi Vortex,
Any further developments? Have you put a flame in your new stove yet?
I believe I speak for many others when I say we are anxiously awaiting any further news from your stove development. |
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