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Post by energyseeker on Jan 9, 2012 16:34:28 GMT -8
has anyone seen or used a half of a propane tank for the heat exchange barrel and is there any problem with that. I have access to propane tanks that I am going to be building into a bio diesel processor. My rocket stove is going to have high use and I want to be able to weld to the outside of it to configure water heating pipes for heating thermal mass water tanks. I was hoping for the durability but I don't know if it will mess up the air flow. I could also cut the dome and weld the top in any configuration. Any thoughts.
Also I have used kiln bricks (the light ones), feels like pumas. Can I use these to build my fire box and heat riser.
Thanks all,
Shaun
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Post by peterberg on Jan 10, 2012 5:21:53 GMT -8
A friend of mine has done specifically that. The propane tank, being about one foot wide, could accommodate a 4" equivalent rocket only. He did use the bottom half up-side-down because of the rounded end, an aerodynamically ideal shape.
The light kiln bricks are nice for the hottest parts, less mass compared to normal fire brick and speedier heat-up.
P.S. Welcome to the board!
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Post by energyseeker on Jan 10, 2012 11:11:17 GMT -8
Thanks Peter, The propane tanks I will be using will be 250 and 500 gallon sizes so these will work well with eight inch systems. I have to still get a shop up and running but I have green houses and comforts for my wife to finish first.  I hope to be up and running within 6 months so it won't be that I have given up on this. If anyone has other information that can add to a starting point before I am up and running than that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all, Shaun |
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Post by Donkey on Jan 10, 2012 16:50:43 GMT -8
Have you chopped into a propane tank before?
There are some safety rules to follow.
Just 'cause the tank isn't hissing anymore doesn't mean it's empty, and simply tipping it upside down isn't enough.
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Post by energyseeker on Jan 10, 2012 20:32:01 GMT -8
Yes,
The best way is to fill the tank with water and add some degreaser. Bio diesel by-product degreaser works great. Give the tank a good shaking and drain off enough water to make a cut about 15 inchs. Always make sure that the filler plug and any other hole you can leave open is open. take your plasma cutter or torch and make first cut. start rolling and cutting and by the time you get all the way around most of the water is out. The same trick works for cutting open gas tanks.
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Post by canyon on Jan 12, 2012 9:13:26 GMT -8
I used a 100 lb propane tank for a 6" system for my neighbor. I cut one end off and welded a 3/8 inch plate on top for a flat cooking surface. Had to use kaowool for riser insulation because of narrow gap on the sides so the wider tanks you are looking at are much better for perlite insulation. At any rate there is no problem that I see with propane tanks when dealt with safely and I like re-using them and other tanks like hot water tanks.  |
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Post by thewongs on Mar 6, 2012 16:01:24 GMT -8
I'm just in the process of building my first small rocket out of an old air compressor tank. It's only a 25l but should do a small experimental heater... I hope!  Anyway... I think gas bottles and compressor tanks should be great for the job because they are always made from high grade materials (due to safety laws I imagine). |
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morticcio
Full Member
"The problem with internet quotes is that you can't always depend on their accuracy" - Aristotle
Posts: 371
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Post by morticcio on Mar 9, 2012 15:45:35 GMT -8
The light kiln bricks are nice for the hottest parts, less mass compared to normal fire brick and speedier heat-up. I presume the light kiln bricks you refer to and the insulation bricks found here kilnlinings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11 are the same thing. Are they as hard wearing as normal firebrick? Or do you prefer to use normal fire brick for the feed tube / heat riser and keep the lighter brick for the burn tunnel? I've seen videos of the lighter ones being used to construct the whole heater - feed tube, burn tunnel and heat riser - so I guess they must be suitable. Also does it matter if the surface of the brick isn't perfectly smooth? |
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Post by canyon on Mar 9, 2012 22:38:39 GMT -8
The light kiln bricks are nice for the hottest parts, less mass compared to normal fire brick and speedier heat-up. I presume the light kiln bricks you refer to and the insulation bricks found here kilnlinings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11 are the same thing. Are they as hard wearing as normal firebrick? Or do you prefer to use normal fire brick for the feed tube / heat riser and keep the lighter brick for the burn tunnel? . Also does it matter if the surface of the brick isn't perfectly smooth? Not being perfectly smooth is good for turbulance which is needed in the combustion area. These insulation bricks are what are known as "soft" bricks as opposed to regular firebrick known as "hard" brick. They are awesome but not appropriate for the feed tube or the part of the burn tunnel that the wood or cleaning tools are going to be hitting or rubbing as they disappear easily, you can cut them with your fingernail or a matchstick. |
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I hope to be up and running within 6 months so it won't be that I have given up on this. If anyone has other information that can add to a starting point before I am up and running than that would be greatly appreciated.
