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Post by Vortex on Feb 2, 2022 2:54:53 GMT -8
5 kilograms of fuel. It accelerated for a long time. The rocket brick oven in the next room had already started and was buzzing, but this one had not yet. Well, 10-15 minutes flared up against 3-4 minutes of rocket fire. Then I set the valves and went on business. When he returned, he saw not even a crimson, but an orange-yellow afterburner. The pyrometer, designed for 950 degrees, went off scale! In the chimney - 85 degrees. After that, the bypass was turned off, and after a couple of minutes the chamber turned just cherry red, the temperature in the chimney dropped to 55 degrees. It is necessary to come up with some kind of middle position between the two positions of the bypass - on and off. Make a latch on the control handle, or something. If it is running too fast you can add resistance by increasing the top chamber surface area to volume ratio (best) or slightly reduce the size of the top chamber exit. Do you have a threshold behind the primary air? If the primary is blowing on the fuel it can be driving it faster. Also using larger pieces of wood, gradually reducing in size to kindling on top helps slow it down, as does packing the wood tighter with less gaps. Do you have a chimney cowl on the stove pipe? They add resistance, mine got torn off in a very strong storm wind earlier this winter, my stove was running at the time and the reduced resistance and much increased draw made the stove go into thermal runaway like I've never seen before. It was scary, the afterburner went to white hot and the thermometer probe in the afterburner went up and up and eventually got to 1268C before the probe stopped working. My previous record had been 986C. The vermiculite board roof of the afterburner looked like burnt flapjack after, but survived in one piece and is still going. |
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Post by hof on Feb 2, 2022 3:58:17 GMT -8
Primary air feeds through the door`s frame, left and right. Also I use coal burn air (5%) for starting stove and for coal burn in the end.  |
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Post by Vortex on Feb 2, 2022 5:28:35 GMT -8
The coal burn air is OK at startup, I use it then sometimes if I haven't used enough kindling and it's stalling. It will drive the stove faster if used after startup though.
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Post by hof on Feb 2, 2022 12:09:19 GMT -8
950 deg
No smoke, LOT of steam.
Still drying.
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Post by Vortex on Feb 2, 2022 13:15:57 GMT -8
Perfect! Are you using the secondary air through the afterburner much?
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Post by hof on Feb 3, 2022 0:30:37 GMT -8
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Post by Vortex on Feb 3, 2022 2:32:38 GMT -8
If it's fly-ash it'll just wipe off with a wet cloth, if not then the surface of the glass is getting etched from too high a temperature on the glass. IIRC Robax is rated 850C, Neoceram 800C, they're the best, cheaper makes are more prone as they have a lower temperature rating. What is the size of the gap between the inside of the glass and the front of the shelf / afterburner roof? Mine is 110mm, so your 160mm system should be 118mm. If it is already then make it a bit larger by pushing the shelf back a little, that will lower the temperature on the glass. You can polish it out of the glass with various things, I've used an orbital sander with a polishing pad and T-Cut Original ( www.halfords.ie/motoring/paints-body-repair/scratch-repair-paint-restorers/t---cut-original-500ml-333872.html ), Iron Oxide powder, and Cerium Oxide. It can take a while though. I usually re-polish the glass once a year when giving the stove it's annual clean out. Read through this thread on the subject: donkey32.proboards.com/post/31270/thread |
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Post by hof on Feb 3, 2022 3:45:15 GMT -8
If it's fly-ash it'll just wipe off with a wet cloth, if not then the surface of the glass is getting etched from too high a temperature on the glass. IIRC Robax is rated 850C, Neoceram 800C, they're the best, cheaper makes are more prone as they have a lower temperature rating. What is the size of the gap between the inside of the glass and the front of the shelf / afterburner roof? Mine is 110mm, so your 160mm system should be 118mm. 140 mm Robax: - operating temperature up to 680 °C, elevated temperature (thermal shock) up to 760 °C |
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Post by Vortex on Feb 3, 2022 5:41:08 GMT -8
It happens very slowly on mine, so you must have higher temperature there. Where and how are you measuring the temperature in the afterburner? I have a probe through the side wall, in line with the middle of the port. www.glassdynamicsllc.com/robax.html |
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Post by hof on Feb 12, 2022 1:09:07 GMT -8
Overload
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Post by Vortex on Feb 12, 2022 5:19:11 GMT -8
It's because your fire is burning from the bottom of the stack of firewood, that releases too much wood gas too quickly and overloads the air supply. stack the wood below the kindling quite tightly, so there are no large holes for the fire to fall down through and start burning from the bottom.
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Post by hof on Feb 12, 2022 6:42:46 GMT -8
It's because your fire is burning from the bottom of the stack of firewood, that releases too much wood gas too quickly and overloads the air supply. stack the wood below the kindling quite tightly, so there are no large holes for the fire to fall down through and start burning from the bottom. Ok. Yesterday I leave 2" gap betwin rear wall and wood. Result - this video. Today was much better. |
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Post by hof on Mar 18, 2022 5:02:17 GMT -8
The stove works great!
ISA about 7 meters + bricks around the chimney (around 2 meters). The mass of the stove is large, the bypass came in handy. Due to the large mass of the stove, there is no overheating at individual points, the entire surface is heated more or less evenly. The stove can be heated for 6 hours in a row, throwing firewood 3-4 times in small portions. Many air supply adjustments allow you to adjust the combustion and behavior of the stove as you need it now.
I heat up the stove with an open bypass to 110 degrees in the chimney, then I close the bypass and the temperature in the chimney drops to 60-70 degrees. If to heat well, then 80 degrees.
No smoke, only vapor, like little cloud.
Calorifer tube works, give more heat to high big workshop. Heat is enough.
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Post by Vortex on Mar 18, 2022 10:42:21 GMT -8
That's great news, hof. I'm really pleased it worked out OK for you.
Any more problems with the afterburner glass?
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Post by hof on Mar 19, 2022 5:25:59 GMT -8
That's great news, hof. I'm really pleased it worked out OK for you. Any more problems with the afterburner glass? Absolutly blur. See nothing. |
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