grga
Junior Member
Posts: 76 
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Post by grga on Dec 9, 2020 12:05:58 GMT -8
Good point Vortex. It would be nice to have core from more insulative material but still scratch resistant at least as castable (calcium aluminate cement + grog).
Karl thank you for comments. I have used hydrated lime for mortar for red bricks building a bell. I am from Slovenia, central Europe.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2020 3:51:43 GMT -8
I am from Slovenia, central Europe. According to Wikipedia, Slovenia is the most prosperous country in the former Yugoslavia with only about two million people. The gross domestic product per inhabitant is more than three times as large as that of Serbia and around half as large as in Germany. Doesn't look too bad from a distance. No idea what you can buy in Slovenia and at what prices. With a DIY chain mill you can make pozzolans for binders or fillers from volcanic rock or old bricks for little money. Sandblasting slag can be used as a substitute filler for grog. In Slovenia there are two sources of fly ash (the thermal power plants at Trbovlje and Šoštanj) with over 500,000 tons of fly ash produced per year. Maybe you can get some.
The LTGS technology works with virtually any kind of finely divided aluminosilicate like clay (even of the lowest grade from the garden), milled bricks or volcanic stone powder.
There is no cheaper nor a simpler way to make DIY refractory. If you have more specific questions then please post in the appropriate thread or maybe even better open a new one.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2023 12:28:28 GMT -8
It's hard to believe that it's been almost 3 years since "Kansas City 1" came about...
I FINALLYgor together all of the components necessary to have a try at the recipe.
I'm not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but i'm wondering if someone could verify the volume that "one recipe's worth" is supposed to make.
I "scaled" the recipe provided to make what should have turned out to be 144 cubic inches (12" x 12" x1"), but it only made enough for 12"x12"x0.75".
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 3, 2023 15:51:18 GMT -8
One additional question, how did you "temperature cure" your pieces after the initial 10 day "ambient temperature" curing?
I did an initial "heat curing" (after a 14 day ambient temperature cure) by placing my 12"x12"x0.75" plate inside of my camp fire ring approximately 12" from a small fire. I gradually added more and more wood making it a fairly large fire and left the plate in place for about 3 hours until the flames died down. After that, i set the plate on top of the coals overnight.
After that curing, the material was still able to be scratched easily enough to create a groove in the plate.
I then tried applying a propane torch flame for 60 seconds to a focused spot on the plate (getting that spot glowing orange). After letting the spot cool, scratching at that spot did not wear material off easily.
So i'm wondering how to appropriately "high temperature" cure the finished product reliably.
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Post by sksshel on Oct 10, 2023 12:46:14 GMT -8
It's hard to believe that it's been almost 3 years since "Kansas City 1" came about... I FINALLYgor together all of the components necessary to have a try at the recipe. I'm not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but i'm wondering if someone could verify the volume that "one recipe's worth" is supposed to make. I "scaled" the recipe provided to make what should have turned out to be 144 cubic inches (12" x 12" x1"), but it only made enough for 12"x12"x0.75". The volume quoted was what my experiments produced. It's always a good idea to make a little extra to make sure you have enough. |
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Post by sksshel on Oct 10, 2023 12:49:45 GMT -8
One additional question, how did you "temperature cure" your pieces after the initial 10 day "ambient temperature" curing? I did an initial "heat curing" (after a 14 day ambient temperature cure) by placing my 12"x12"x0.75" plate inside of my camp fire ring approximately 12" from a small fire. I gradually added more and more wood making it a fairly large fire and left the plate in place for about 3 hours until the flames died down. After that, i set the plate on top of the coals overnight. After that curing, the material was still able to be scratched easily enough to create a groove in the plate. I then tried applying a propane torch flame for 60 seconds to a focused spot on the plate (getting that spot glowing orange). After letting the spot cool, scratching at that spot did not wear material off easily. So i'm wondering how to appropriately "high temperature" cure the finished product reliably. The best way to temperature cure the end product is a kiln. I do not have one. I went ahead and built my firebox and cured it in use. |
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 10, 2023 16:20:19 GMT -8
Fair enough, i just wasn't sure how "exact" the volume was. I know that with variations in thickness of my test pieces, it's difficult to get a precise volume.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 10, 2023 16:26:16 GMT -8
I'm going to have to retry the recipe as the test piece that i made, after curing in a camp fire, was weaker than a piece of drywall. I don't have any pictures unfotunately. I'll have to document better next time around.
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 11, 2023 16:01:37 GMT -8
Sksshel, one additional question...when you mixed a batch of this recipe, how dry was the mix? I know that you've specified the amount of water that you used, but in my initial trial i only used 1/2 of what was called for and the mix was very wet (i wonder if that may have been why my test piece ended up so weak - decreased concentration of the chemicals which promote the geopolymerization).
In a recent trial of a "basic" LTGS mixture (waiting for it to ambient temperature cure right now), i only added enough water for the mix to become "a mess of small relativley dry looking pebbles". I then used a hammer and wood block to beat it into the mould.
In your description, it sounded like your mix was maybe at least "spreadable/uniform" but not able to be vibrated into the mould.
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Post by sksshel on Oct 12, 2023 10:59:38 GMT -8
Sksshel, one additional question...when you mixed a batch of this recipe, how dry was the mix? I know that you've specified the amount of water that you used, but in my initial trial i only used 1/2 of what was called for and the mix was very wet (i wonder if that may have been why my test piece ended up so weak - decreased concentration of the chemicals which promote the geopolymerization). In a recent trial of a "basic" LTGS mixture (waiting for it to ambient temperature cure right now), i only added enough water for the mix to become "a mess of small relativley dry looking pebbles". I then used a hammer and wood block to beat it into the mould. In your description, it sounded like your mix was maybe at least "spreadable/uniform" but not able to be vibrated into the mould. That doesn't sound right. The consistency was about that of Sheetrock Mud. It won't pour. It needs to be scooped into the molds. The amount of water stated in the recipe was what I actually used. As I mixed the batch, I kept track of the amount of water used. |
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Post by firewatcher on Oct 12, 2023 11:27:46 GMT -8
Ok, thank you for the description of the consistency...that will help me to gage how close i am to what you experienced.
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