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Post by painterd on Dec 6, 2015 4:00:08 GMT -8
Jon, A 7" will be kinda small, but may work good enough for a small fish house. I'd go with a 3" tube for the burner then and make the stove at least 18"- 20" long. Don't forget about making a baffle about 3" from the top of the stove inside to capture all the heat from the flame before it exits the stove.
You may also want to look at the Clarry stove design, which would work pretty well for a fish house or small building. They are made for heating wall tents. They are a simple design and look easy enough to make. I have all the material to make a 4" version of the clarry stove here, but haven't gotten around to welding all together just yet. I'm also thinking of adding another riser/tube to my Clarry design to capture more heat before it goes up the chimney. So it would be 2" long, go up 4 " then back 16", up 4" more then back another 16" then out the stack. It would capture more heat and not waste it all out the stack that way. PD
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 7, 2015 9:32:12 GMT -8
Painters, thanks
I thought of cutting the 7" tube about 22" and putting about 10 or 12 piece at the back to form a 90 making a L
Putting exhaust at the bottom of the L and the pot for cooking
Burn tube also 3 with a 90 on the back a inch or two from the top
I've seen some rocket similar but out of 100 lb LP tanks
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Post by painterd on Dec 7, 2015 15:39:18 GMT -8
Unless you plan on keeping the temp of the stove 500 degrees or less, mild steel will eventually burn out, flake off and if nothing else, warp with the excessive heat. It may take some experimenting with, but you have the right idea. Trial and error is how I did it and eventually figured it out so it works for me. My problem wasn't so much with the stove design, which I knew would work from past experience, but the burner design and feed tube size, to keep the stove from back burning up into the hopper. With the Riley stove burner design and a 2 X 3 " feed tube, I no longer have that problem. As I've stated before, my burner and burner tube is 4", but my wood stove pipe is 6" so I have plenty of draft to pull air thru the burner. That makes a lot of difference how hot the pellets burn too. Sometimes I have to close the air feed down a bit or it burns too hot. PD |
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 7, 2015 17:27:36 GMT -8
Painters, you got any pics and dimensions.
Or do you think a clarry version would work betterfor my fish house
Thanks Jon
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 11, 2015 19:32:33 GMT -8
PD you got me thinkin
what do you think of this, instead when putting a nother horizontal tube 6" above, why not put it level with it. I was thinking it might be a nice cooking surface and I like the exhaust towards
the back of the stove
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Post by painterd on Dec 23, 2015 15:49:52 GMT -8
Yes, the Clarry version would be better for a fish house in my opinion. My thought is to extend the heat output of the Clarry design by adding another horizontal tube with one more riser tube. That way the flame would pass forward, the up and back, then up and forward again before exiting the stove in the rear. I know it would work and produce more heat (more mass to heat up) And that way, your smoke pipe will be in the rear of the stove.
My wood furnace pellet burner works that way. The flame comes out of the 4" tube (about a 10" flame) bounces off the back of the stove, goes up and back, over the baffle the back toward the exit. I'm heating my house right now as we speak. The stove is at 350 degrees, exhaust temp is at 200 or so and the hot air being blown up to the main level runs around 100-120 degrees, depending on how far I open the air intake. There is absolutely no smoke coming out of the chimney, just a little heat wave you can barely see.
I'll try to post some photos of it soon.
The demensions of the 4" burn tube are 24" long. 16" of that is inside the stove (26" firebox) and 8" outside the stove where the pellet feed tube connects to the 4" tube. My pellet feed is a 2" X 3" square tube (12" long with a slide shut off to stop the pellets from feeding when I want to shut it down) and the hopper made of galvanized duct tin, pop riveted together, made large enough to hold a 40 lb.+ bag of pellets. The burner tube also has a door on the end of it to control the air intake, so I am able to adjust it.
As I mentioned before, I just fabricated another woodstove door with a 4" X 4" square hole in it and bolted the burner tube onto it. And like the original door, I added a small 3 X 4" glass in the upper corner of the door to be able watch how the flame and how the burner is working.
I am able to take it all apart and put the original stove door back on if I ever want to burn regular cord wood again (not likely because the pellet burner works so well!)
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 27, 2015 15:00:58 GMT -8
PD, got stove done
Works ok, doesn't seem to be as hot as I'd like
Built it like I described earlier.
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 30, 2015 11:07:58 GMT -8
My clarry clone is done.
It's 3x3 24" tube with 2x3 6" long rise, 2x3 18 " top and another retuning back
3" round pellet feed and 3" to 4" exhaust
It starts and burns good but can't boil water, it just gets hot and bubbles
Any ideas?
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Post by painterd on Dec 31, 2015 15:47:52 GMT -8
I'd try getting an adapter for your 3" exhaust expanding it to a 4" exhaust to get more draft and also make it longer (taller). The secret to burning pellets that way is a good strong steady draft to burn the pellets hot. My stove is a 4" tube going into an old wood furnace, which has a 6" pipe going into the chimney. The chimney starts in the basement, goes up thru the first floor, thru the attic then out the roof, so there is a very strong draw for the pellet burner. In a fish house, you aren't going to get much of a draft if the stack is just going thru the roof and that's it. You should try adding a longer extention to get more suction for the burner.
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 31, 2015 20:57:04 GMT -8
PD, I did make exhaust go from 3-4"
Make a Riley style carb to put in to my 3" tube
Seems to be about same heat, just got a thermometer and the Riley style is running about 370 on my top leg just after the 6" rise and 250 before going to exhaust
Now checked ng clarry style carb
The Riley seem to leave more ash and creasoot running down as it turns out of pellets
I would post pics but can't figure out how to
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Post by trapperjonmk on Dec 31, 2015 21:14:10 GMT -8
I forgot to mention I have it on my shop with exhaust out the window and 3' of pipe above the lower side of my roof
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Post by trapperjonmk on Jan 1, 2016 19:05:05 GMT -8
Ran it today for about 6 hours with clarry carb set up.
Temp on top tube reached 550 degrees and tube before exhaust was 350.
I throttled it back from about a 1-1/8 of draft on high to about 1/2 for low, low temp dropped to 275 on top tube didn't check on exhaust.
What I noticed was creosoot dripping out of the elbow outside the fish house.
Also it didn't burn all the pellets.
There was about a cup of pellets that hung up and burn at base of feed tube.
Like I need to put some holes in feed tube to create a wash.
Would like to hear some input to guy that ar running these types of stoves. Thanks Jon
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Post by plcnut on Jan 2, 2016 16:04:57 GMT -8
Just curious: Are you using ultra low moisture pellets? Have your pellets been sitting around for a while?
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Post by trapperjonmk on Jan 3, 2016 6:52:11 GMT -8
Just bought them at Menards.
Wonder if I need insulated pipe since I just have galvinized and
It seems to only do on low temp like the chimney gets to cool.
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Post by painterd on Sept 5, 2016 12:58:01 GMT -8
Any gravity fed pellet stove needs to have an air tight hopper so the air doesn't get sucked thru the pellet feed and cause a "back-burn" up the pellet chute. That's been my finding while experimenting with all my stoves so far. After sealing up my hopper, I never get the a back burn into my feed tube now.
I'm still making different configurations with my burners to get a slower burn (use less pellets) and a lower heat so I don't get cooked out. My current stove used a bag and a half a day, which is a lot. I'm going from my 4" burn tube to a 3 1/2" tube and a smaller burner to see how much difference in pellet consumption there is.
My new stove is a lot smaller also and has a 4" exhaust compared to a 6" exhaust on my bigger stove. I should have a little less draft and a slower burn, which is what I'm looking for. I hated getting the house too hot and having to shut the stove down and start it up when I need heat. I'd rather just run a cooler fire and let it run all the time to get more even heat. I can always slide open the ash door to slow down the burn too I need be.
I'm also going to install a barometric damper in the pipe to keep the exhaust pressure more even, so it doesn't suck too much air on the cold winter nights, which make the fire irregular and burn too hot sometimes.
I'm going to do a test burn as soon as the weather starts to cool off. That will give me time to finish the sheet metal box up making to enclose the fan motor, so I can install a furnace filter and keep the hot air cleaner coming upstairs. I may as well build it right as long as I have time.
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