|
Post by danray35 on Apr 3, 2011 19:41:32 GMT -8
I recently came across rocket stoves and just had to make one. I wanted to use only bricks. I have about 26 bricks and two flat pavers I am using for the base. I have built and rebuilt with about 4 different ways testing each one to see what works and what doesn't. These have all been test models without mortar. So far I have had limited results. I assumed it was called a rocket stove because it roared somewhat. One of my designs did roar sort of. Until too much debris filled up the combustion chamber and air flow was cut. I am pretty much using the bricks to make a square tower, with a hole on one side at the bottom to add fuel. I made it with a tunnel and without. Ive made it with a piece of metal to raise the fuel up so that air will flow under the fuel. Still I am not really seeing stellar results. On my first attempt it took 45 mins to get a pot of water to boil. I am guessing I would be better off with a pipe for the flue, as a round shape should conduct the flow better. Is there a particular size the flue should be? Looking to learn from others experiences. Thanks to all who respond.
|
|
bud
New Member
Posts: 11
|
Post by bud on Apr 3, 2011 23:13:23 GMT -8
Have you checked out Allan Smith's Hermon Heater--all-brick masonry rocket heater. He has several video's on youtube. However, it's a space heater rather than a cookstove.
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Apr 4, 2011 0:51:58 GMT -8
One of the things which is easily overlooked: the combustion chamber and the heat riser has to have good insulation. Otherwise it won't work at all. And warming up a brick rocket stove will take some time.
This weekend I've built 4 rocket cook stoves out of scrap metal cans and vermiculite during a workshop. After that workshop a couple of guys cooked a meal for 15 hungry men on it. They used a particular type of pan to do the cooking, in my language it's called a wok. As a result, the stoves were christened "wockets". They worked flawlessly, recorded temperatures inside the wocket reached 1550 F. without effort.
|
|
|
Post by danray35 on Apr 4, 2011 2:38:45 GMT -8
Thanks bud Ill check out the videos. So what you are saying Peter is even if I have it insulated, and the right design, patients is in order cause it has to warm up before it becomes really effective?
|
|
|
Post by peterberg on Apr 4, 2011 5:24:58 GMT -8
Yes. The less mass the heart of the thing will hold, the earlier it reaches the ideal temperature. A cook stove made of thin metal pipe will be ready in a couple of minutes. Heavy gauge metal like 1/8 inch 5 to 8 minutes, bricks on its side 10 minutes or more. The catch is: thin ordinary steel will burn out within a month of daily use.
|
|
|
Post by grizbach on Apr 4, 2011 7:32:01 GMT -8
I have a suggestion: You said you built it with and without the tunnel. You need the tunnel for turbulence to get good mixing .
|
|
|
Post by danray35 on Apr 5, 2011 2:56:16 GMT -8
ok I reviewed a couple of videos and modified my layout. I built a tunnel with vertical feed, and wow what difference. The thing roared to life quickly. I could really tell it was working good when I heard two bricks crack. (using cheap concrete bricks til I figure out my design)
|
|