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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 21, 2017 9:34:57 GMT -8
It is finally done! 2500 kg of red bricks in the living room ... and wife hasn't dismantled it yet! My heartfelt thanks for the forum, Peter and others for resources and advice! SPECS: system: 160mm CSA, connecting on 8cm from floor level into the 4,5m high old brick chimney. Bypass connection also present. Measurements: W:120cm, L: 70cm, H: 198cm; weight 2,5 tons oven: W: 44cm, L:43cm, H: 18-23cm, sitting on the top of the riser, exhaust passing through the oven (oven exhaust about 2,2 times the system CSA) Original thread: donkey32.proboards.com/thread/2308/brick-sidewinder-riser-baking-oven
Work diary: Diary
Final finish will be some lighter color paint finally, but i am working to get that plan cancelled  Red brick, bit dirty looks so grounded! Floor surrounding the heater will get probably the 1cm thick stone slap covering Thanks forum and nice autumn for all! **edit: it actually burns... FIRE! |
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 21, 2017 9:44:19 GMT -8
...I will discuss about my need to keep the under-primary air as part of the set up in specific future thread. It is related to the surprise found later about the chimney. Otherwise I would have omitted the under-air for sure; wanted to go by the book for sure with my first major build.
- I will also discuss about the performance of the heater on this thread as soon as I get the infra red temp meter!
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Post by wiscojames on Nov 21, 2017 9:49:39 GMT -8
Really nice work - great documentation - don't hide that nice masonry work by painting it!
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Post by drooster on Nov 21, 2017 11:07:14 GMT -8
2500 kg of red bricks in the living room ... and wife hasn't dismantled it yet!
Final finish will be some lighter color paint finally, but i am working to get that plan cancelled No. BatchDevil looks good au-naturelle. Put yer wife on the line I'll sort 'er out ... |
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Post by satamax on Nov 22, 2017 9:41:29 GMT -8
I love the looks!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 23, 2017 5:22:33 GMT -8
Thx for compliments guys - and your steady opinions are marked!  I knew I would get some construction-ethical support here. After all, only a brick would hide the bricks self laid behind some industrial paint? Plastering and all such is different, but they're not for me as the design is single skinned. I feel that this will be THE reason to use the builder's veto if a need should arise... |
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Post by satamax on Nov 23, 2017 7:29:30 GMT -8
Just oïl the bricks!
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Nov 23, 2017 22:40:38 GMT -8
Please please PLEASE use that veto! It is beautiful, old world and modern at the same time!
I think/hope she will grow to love it...
Painting it is something that likely can't be easily undone, and that red brick is beautiful.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 24, 2017 5:11:10 GMT -8
The secretariat is already initiating the draft process for VETO. Satamax: Oil is actually interesting option. So far I did not think of it. It would be a kind of good compromise... although in the back of my mind I have also been entertaining the idea to even apply a very very thin clay slip to make it look even more organic and authentic by making it more "foggy". Any suggestion for finishing oil from your experience? Oil would also solve my gravest mistake in the building process... this followed as rapeseed oil was applied to cast iron parts to protect them from mortar. I did not sweep them dry enough. So far I have not been able to get the stains away. Oiling the surface would be a kind of "if u can't beat em, join em" -solution. I am also pondering in mixing darker kind of brick color pigment to clay slip in order to create organic and irregular mosaic pattern by painting some of the bricks darker. How would that sound? |
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Post by rakettimuurari on Nov 24, 2017 5:14:13 GMT -8
I quoted you manually... this would have been easier way  learning the thread mechanics slowly. |
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Post by Orange on Nov 26, 2017 6:46:15 GMT -8
nice documentation!
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 2, 2017 0:09:44 GMT -8
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 2, 2017 0:53:07 GMT -8
Performance / temp analysis - first iterationGot my BP21 pyrometer finally. Measured the temps outside the heater during 25hrs from highest burn of one full batch (6-7kg's of cord-wood spruce). Outside snowy and -1'C. House is a wooden blockhouse of 65m 2 from 30's with some modernization of 15cm SPU foam insulation in the ceiling. Walls of the main room are not insulated expect the crevasses between the 30cm diameter wood blocks, wind stopper chipboarding of 1cm thickness, and modern windows. Apart from the BR heating is done with direct electric batteries and DC Converter/ air source heat pump (correct translation?). Room temps are measured in the living room where the BR stands. Original "battery" brick wall just behind the BR probably effects remarkably to the steadiness in room temps as it has gathered heat from weeks of daily heating. It is separated from heater by 1cm rock wool expansion joint.  www.dropbox.com/s/4wplcmyx4r7qgzl/Heater%20temps.jpg?dl=0Firing sequence: Lighting from the dead middle of the batch, door open - under-air&secondary air closed 3 min: fire reaches port. Door closed - under-air fully open - window wash 3mm open 10 min: full blaze 61 min: last flames disappear. Window wash closed, under-air decreased. 75 min: couple of embers of fingertip size left on the grid. Under-air closed. 90 min: no glow anywhere - chimney damper closed.
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Post by rakettimuurari on Dec 21, 2017 14:14:30 GMT -8
Performance / temp analysis - second iteration
- damper comparisonMeasured the temps outside the heater during 12hrs from highest burn of one full batch (6-7kg's of cord-wood spruce). Outside snowy and 0'C. Difference to first iteration is that chimney damper was left entirely open after the burn in purpose to find out about the usefulness of the damper in a bell system. Temp comparison closed vs open damper
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Post by independentenergy on Dec 21, 2017 22:10:05 GMT -8
I always boiled try potassium silicate or waterglass but I have not succeeded yet.
diluted correctly and sprayed on the surface creates a layer of protection against stain, revives the color of the surface, makes it waterproof, prevents flaking.
you could try, maybe on some advanced brick.
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Red brick, bit dirty looks so grounded! Floor surrounding the heater will get probably the 1cm thick stone slap covering
learning the thread mechanics slowly.
