Building Stove Doors, Dampers, and Hardware

[matthewwalker]

Hey gang, I've been building these doors and parts using ceramic fiber for a while now. I've settled on some methods that work well for me, and it's time I shared where I'm at so far. Here's a new vid covering some ways to build doors without too much fuss, using ceramic fiber board and metal skins. I use aluminum, but one could easily form some steel from a barrel top or similar around the board and have a nice door. I go over my dampers as well, which are laughably simple. Coat hangers through a chunk of board! Works great. Hopefully you'll find something you can use here.

[wiscojames]

Thanks for sharing some good nuts and bolts info on this critical topic, Matt!

[Orange]

thanks Matt, your nickname should be Simplificator

[gbfisher]

Thanks for sharing this Matt!   It was interesting.
Gary

[esbjornaneer]

Hello Matt,
another great video of yours. Just a couple of Q's:
In the FB door how do the rivets hold the ceramic fibre board? Do they go all the way through, I did not see?
In the oven door, did you just sink the washer on the inside of the ceramic fibre board to accommodate the kength of the screw or does that serve any other purpose?
How long would you expect the coat hanger baffle arrangement to survive at the front end (away from the port) of the upper/second shoebox of Peter's new DSR?
I was thinking further from Satamax's and my comments (both 5th Dec) about the option of having the DSR core supplying an oven on one side and a hob on the other of the second box, and how to keep the heat in the oven during the ember phase. (I have to take time to learn Sketchup so I can show things more clearly.)

[matthewwalker]

Thanks Esbjorn. The rivets are all the way through, and have washers on the ceramic board side that give them some hold. Yes, the oven screws were too short, so I sunk them in the board a bit to get enough thread.

The coat hanger should hold up forever. Keep in mind the gasses are quenching on the glass top right after the port, so temps will be cooler than we usually blast at our barrel tops and other parts. It will be fine. Hope that helps!

[esbjornaneer]

No thank YOU Matt,
Max's suggestion was to have the whole of the 2nd shoebox insulated (roof too) so no cooling until entering an oven instead of the switchback of the Allerton Abbey cooker. He was suggesting that the temps would be close to the same temp as the gases enter the oven on the side.
Instead of retelling the story, here is a link to the page containing both comments. Max's is about 1/3 down the page quoting docbb. Mine is the first after Peter's following Max's.
That means the temps would still be high in the area I am suggesting one could select via baffels to direct the heat to oven or cooking hob...
Ahh. I just thought that it might be possible to have the baffles on the other side of the oven/hob instead of in the 2nd shoe box! Thank you for supplying me with the info to get that idea!

[matthewwalker]

I believe the metal will still be fine Esbjorn. I might be wrong, but I suspect it can conduct through it's length well enough to avoid damage.

[esbjornaneer]

Thoughts are returning to the damber being in the 2nd shoebox but hiding the metal inside the board/damper. Hope it works. I may make a mock-up with a piece of polystyrene I have lying around to show.

Would you be happy to supply a picture/drawing of how the door frame works? I think I got the way you do the top/lintel are the other parts with the flat bit towards the bricks too or is there anything 'grabbing' the bricks?

[matthewwalker]

I'm afraid I don't entirely understand what you are asking Esbjorn. The door frame is simple. I use steel angle fastened to the bricks of the opening with masonry screws. That creates a lip that I can mount the door flange to.

There is no mechanical grabbing of the bricks beyond the fasteners through the steel angle.

[travis]

Thanks for sharing Matt