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Post by pinhead on Sept 19, 2017 11:04:16 GMT -8
After burning this stove daily last winter - and multiple times over the weekends - I can say the riser has held up very well; looking through the port reveals a riser that looks virtually identical to when I started.
I'll try to get a camera into the riser to see just how it's held up. I don't really want to remove the barrel but if I can't get a good view with the camera, I could be convinced to do so in the name of rocket science.
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Post by Orange on Oct 14, 2017 12:30:07 GMT -8
I am absolutely amazed at how well the ceramic-fiber insulates the riser; draft takes off instantly and the 8-inch pipe gets appreciably hot but not nearly as much as I had assumed with only one inch of insulation. can you estimate the temperature of the metal pipe behind ceramic fiber? |
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Post by pinhead on Oct 16, 2017 5:00:22 GMT -8
I am absolutely amazed at how well the ceramic-fiber insulates the riser; draft takes off instantly and the 8-inch pipe gets appreciably hot but not nearly as much as I had assumed with only one inch of insulation. can you estimate the temperature of the metal pipe behind ceramic fiber? Unfortunately, no; it's been a year since I built it and I don't want to burn it "open" since the cellar has now become my HAM shack. |
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Post by wiscojames on Jan 9, 2018 14:54:59 GMT -8
I'm building some thing similar. What do you think is minimum top gap for this configuration? I have 8 inches planned now. How far do you think I can cheat the barrel to one side to move a little farther from the wall? I am thinking of insulating the inside of the barrel on one side, the side closest to the wall. If you were doing it again today, would you do the roof the same way? Corrugated and cob? Or?
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Post by smokeout on Jan 9, 2018 17:53:02 GMT -8
Congratulations Pinhead, that is an awesome find when you get a woman to help build a heater. Good luck on your move.
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Post by pinhead on Feb 26, 2018 10:12:07 GMT -8
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Post by drooster on Feb 26, 2018 10:29:09 GMT -8
Which of the terrifying wedding-waistcoat Doug Ptaceks on that Friendface page is you?
I like the use of heavy stone blocks in your stove.
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Post by pinhead on Feb 26, 2018 13:38:47 GMT -8
Which of the terrifying wedding-waistcoat Doug Ptaceks on that Friendface page is you? I like the use of heavy stone blocks in your stove. I'm the one with the mustache.  |
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Post by pinhead on Feb 26, 2018 13:47:58 GMT -8
I'm building some thing similar. What do you think is minimum top gap for this configuration? I have 8 inches planned now. How far do you think I can cheat the barrel to one side to move a little farther from the wall? I am thinking of insulating the inside of the barrel on one side, the side closest to the wall. If you were doing it again today, would you do the roof the same way? Corrugated and cob? Or? I'm sorry I haven't responded to this sooner. Peter recommends 12" top-gap on all Batch Boxes. I don't expect 8 inches to be too restrictive in a 6-inch system but at that point, it's entirely experimental as it's outside of the original parameters. As for the roof, yes, absolutely; it has held up exceptionally well, hasn't cracked anywhere, and is surprisingly strong. I'm fairly certain this construction is what I'll consider my "standard" method. The only thing I'll likely change is the throat of the batch box, as my clay mixture hasn't been able to survive the rigors experienced in that area. |
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Post by jonahlomu2 on Jun 1, 2018 3:08:42 GMT -8
Great thread. I'm planning on using the same riser for an 8" j' tube. Do you have any idea how this would affect the barrel top/riser gap? I'm thinking 2-3 inches...
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Post by pinhead on Jun 4, 2018 9:43:14 GMT -8
Great thread. I'm planning on using the same riser for an 8" j' tube. Do you have any idea how this would affect the barrel top/riser gap? I'm thinking 2-3 inches... The insulation material shouldn't have any effect on the usable top-gap, though I build all of my stuff (both J and BB style) with a foot or more top-gap; I personally see no advantage of a small top-gap. HOWEVER, I've spent most of my time working with Batch Boxes so I don't have as much intuition with regards to tuning a J-tube. |
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Post by jonahlomu2 on Jun 4, 2018 15:23:44 GMT -8
Thanks pinhead. Having read about yours and other peoples use of half barrels as a bell/bench IV decided to try and do the same. Bench will be a 15ft L-shape. I'd like to use a brick duct to carry the smoke as far as the start of the curve in the L before introducing it in to the bell. The idea being that it should encourage the hot gases to fill the chamber faster. The exit will be at the bottom next to the combustion unit. Can you see any potential problem with this? P.S. Thank you for the inspiration. The ceramic fibre has saved me a lot of time and money  |
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Post by pinhead on Jun 7, 2018 12:24:18 GMT -8
Thanks pinhead. Having read about yours and other peoples use of half barrels as a bell/bench IV decided to try and do the same. Bench will be a 15ft L-shape. I'd like to use a brick duct to carry the smoke as far as the start of the curve in the L before introducing it in to the bell. The idea being that it should encourage the hot gases to fill the chamber faster. The exit will be at the bottom next to the combustion unit. Can you see any potential problem with this? P.S. Thank you for the inspiration. The ceramic fibre has saved me a lot of time and money No problem at all as long as as you build it with enough CSA as to not cause a flow restriction. |
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Post by pinhead on Jul 21, 2022 9:58:39 GMT -8
I know this was ages ago. And there's probably already been better "case studies" of the longevity of the 5-minute riser. But FWIW, here's after a year (the video was taken a few years ago but I just now got around to uploading my videos to Youtube). youtu.be/uyKA6CR4epk |
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Forsythe
Full Member
Instauratur Ruinae
Posts: 208
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Post by Forsythe on Jul 28, 2022 10:13:51 GMT -8
I’d recommend either a zircon-based rigidizer (best option) — or a colloidal silica (like Sairset) [or alternative: fumed silica] for rigidizing the interior of a heat riser. Sodium silicate might shorten the life of the ceramic fiber — and may even cause a 6”+ system size to increasingly shrivel away or melt, densify, and lose its insulative properties over time. Ash will likely accumulate and stick to the hottest, lowest section of that fiber tube… considering that it would be fluxed & “wetted” by the sodium content in sodium silicate. Sodium is a “flux,” meaning it reduces ceramic softening temperature, and that encourages even more flux (potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium oxides from ash) to adhere during the hottest peak of the burn. How slow or rapid that process occurs would hinge upon the ceramic fiber’s original density, composition, and temperature rating, how hot your riser interior gets, how much sodium is applied, and how much ash gets sucked through your riser by the draft created in your particular heater + chimney build. |
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