docbb
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Post by docbb on Feb 13, 2016 3:33:30 GMT -8
I guess there are some Russian speaking guys here, (anyway google will translate it in Google English) there is a very interesting rocket heater on "forum house" forum  Here and Herewith DIY or almost heat resistant pipes and a big firebox il let you discover... |
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docbb
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Post by docbb on Feb 13, 2016 6:44:48 GMT -8
DIY ceramic tubes composition (almost google translate) And the composition can be summarized: 40% fire clay (chamotte) 50% clay (consult with the local ceramists, we need at least 1100 degrees C° and quite oily) 10% Kaolin (if after the second casting still adheres to the mold to reduce). Deflocculant there of a percent, depending on the slurry flow. I have a large bucket of construction going around a tablespoon of baking soda and half a spoon of liquid glass. We look to fireclay not precipitated, and on the surface of the slurry is not standing water. If you pour the additives, the slurry becomes like jelly - is not very suitable for casting. We need to get a consistency such as that of PVA glue around. After a couple of hours defending nothing should flake in the slurry - or sink or float.  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2016 8:40:41 GMT -8
Making a geopolymer is much simpler than the cast ceramic
described on the Russian site.
Geopolymers do not need to be fired, only dried.
In the USA or UK metakaolin is quite cheap.
Very fine grog works very well too and can be used for
"just add water" mixtures.
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stoker
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Post by stoker on Feb 15, 2016 14:07:09 GMT -8
Yes, an interesting batch box design.
Looks as if the riser is about 4" diameter, with a horizontal tunnel before it of the same diameter... sort of like a standard J rocket except that the tunnel is squashed down to about 2cm tall at the upstream end, making a horizontal slit where the gases enter the tunnel from the huge box.
I've not managed to work out what's going on with the primary and secondary air, and the grate of tubes and all.
And he says he can run it at anything up to 20kW, which seems extraordinary for a rocket burner of 4" system-size.
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zinya
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Post by zinya on Feb 21, 2016 2:12:22 GMT -8
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tigra
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Post by tigra on Mar 2, 2016 16:19:14 GMT -8
Looks as if the riser is about 4" diameter, with a horizontal tunnel before it of the same diameter... sort of like a standard J rocket except that the tunnel is squashed down to about 2cm tall at the upstream end, making a horizontal slit where the gases enter the tunnel from the huge box. I've not managed to work out what's going on with the primary and secondary air, and the grate of tubes and all. And he says he can run it at anything up to 20kW, which seems extraordinary for a rocket burner of 4" system-size. I speak russian, read that thread and going to build something a bit similar. So, can help understanding the design of this rocket solid fuel boiler. So, if anyone is interested in some aspect of this device, ask and I will try to answer (can ask the author and post his reply here). The pyrolysis chamber is almost airtight welded from metal. All incoming air comes through two channels that can be partially closed. Primary air comes through holes in grate made from tubes. Holes are oriented downwards. Secondary air enters into tube entering riser from below, about 1/3 of riser height, with holes drilled, oriented as spiral. Both primary and secondary air are taken from outside and preheated. Additionally, there's additional channel that directs outside air to the room, by using draft from heated tubes, to create a bit of extra pressure inside the room (traditional stove creates a bit low pressure in the room by sucking air and pushing it into the flue, which is not recommended - first, because it can e.g. draft stinky air from drainage tubing into the house, second, it can create unwanted airflow from cracks in walls/windows/doors, and the most important, having extra pressure in room acts as countermeasure to leaking gases from the stove). The air for room is taken from outside and heated inside the tubing that frame of chamber enclosing the riser and heat echanger is built from, and output to the room throught holes close to the top of that tubing. J-tube is made from cast refractory ceramics, wrapped into high temperature mullite-silica insulation. Around the riser there is a heat exchanger, with total area of about 2 square meters - 1 on inside and 1 on outside, about 1 cm thick. Flue gases come from the top of riser, almost to the bottom heating the heat exchanger, and then back upwards on the other side of heat exchanger. Heat exchanger is tied to hot water heating system inside author's house - warm floors and radiators. The water flows through heat exchanger and the heating system forced by a pump. Author sais that he made cross-sectional area of J-tube according to recommendations related to pyrolisis water heaters pyrolisis slits sizes: 25 kWt - 120×30 mm 32 kWt - 140×30. 50 kWt - 150×30. 80 kWt - 200×30. 100 kWt - 200×40. I ordered the same ceramic J-tube from author and going to try building a masonry stove with it. |
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stoker
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Post by stoker on Apr 14, 2016 10:26:22 GMT -8
Thank you!
It seems quite elaborate... I look forward to seeing how it works out for you!
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serg247
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The mountain can not be conquered, it can allow it to ascend...
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Post by serg247 on Apr 20, 2016 10:55:17 GMT -8
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Post by mkrepel on Apr 26, 2016 6:34:26 GMT -8
Interesting setup. Unlike the PvDB batch box which can pyrolize wood along the entire length of the box, it looks much more like a standard J-tube with a very large feed tube. It looks like it could be loaded and left to some extent, but I suspect that one might have to play with it to keep the end of the wood down in the burn chamber.
It should be a very efficient water heater.
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