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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 13, 2016 0:03:34 GMT -8
@karl the width of that blade in the video is as wide or wider than the blade on the picture I show above. I am thinking a diesel engine with more power will give me more uses from the same machine. Plus it is more powerful for digging. But I wonder if when making cob it is easier to have the blade in the front rather than the back. I also don't know if the extra weight of the diesel powered machine makes it harder to maneuver back and forth and in quick turns.
I have no experience with this, so I have no idea.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2016 1:54:34 GMT -8
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Post by DCish on Jan 13, 2016 19:28:17 GMT -8
I've used both kinds of machines, front and back. The front tine tillers are a beast to wrangle. However, for mixing in a limited area, you can use brute force to keep them in check and get the mixing done. The 8hp rear tine tiller that I used was a dream in comparison. It had a high and low speed, and on low speed it moved quite slowly and did a very, very thorough job. Although it was bigger, it was balanced well, and easy to pivot on the wheels for a return pass. Personally, I would vote for the rear tine version in every circumstance that could possibly accommodate it. The model I used also had reverse, so if space were confined, backing up for a second pass would be no issue.
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 14, 2016 4:09:10 GMT -8
@dcish Thanks for your feedback. These are good points I didn't consider. I am leaning towards the rear tine version because of reasons like you mentioned. I am also lusting for the diesel powerful machine!
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Post by dustinmattison on Feb 23, 2016 22:59:55 GMT -8
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Post by philippeelskens on Feb 24, 2016 11:13:26 GMT -8
Looks cool! Definitely give an update on it's performance when you get some practice with it! I'm interested in a similar machine. How much did you pay for it, what brand/type is this? Also, how do you feel this thing would perform in a rocky soil (for gardening, not for making cob...)? |
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Post by dustinmattison on Feb 24, 2016 19:51:57 GMT -8
philippeelskens It cost about $1000. 10 HP. It is a good Chinese brand so it was a few hundred dollars more expensive. It is export quality. But I don't know the name. I need to check. One problem I am having is that the clay when wet gets all clumped and stuck into the blades. I don't know how to solve this. Should I add more water and sand? I will try that today. I think rocky soil shouldn't be a problem, as long as the rocks are not too big. I hit a couple of big rocks which isn't good, but small rocks easily get tilled. Dustin
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2016 1:08:58 GMT -8
I would try to mix soil, sand and straw thoroughly
in the dry state and add water later.
Should save a lot work.
The man in the video said he mixed it very wet,
even if he then had to wait a week or so until it
became dry enough for use.
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Post by patamos on Feb 25, 2016 7:40:25 GMT -8
Might be helpful to put the straw in last
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Post by dustinmattison on Mar 13, 2016 5:23:01 GMT -8
@karl when I mix the straw sand and clay in a dry state and then add water the problem I have is that if the water is too little the clay clumps and clogs up the blades. If I add more water, the rototiller digs deeper and gets stuck in the mud. I added to paddles on the ends which help prevent it from sinking, but now the width of the blades is so wide it makes it hard to turn the machine. The rototiller is heavy. I still haven't figured out the best way to do this. I guess a 5 HP smaller rototiller would be more advantageous in this situation.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2016 5:58:10 GMT -8
Yes, for the small relatively flat patches you have mentioned
a smaller rototiller with a smaller plow shaft would be easier to handle.
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