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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 8, 2016 16:40:53 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2016 6:02:45 GMT -8
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reyh
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Post by reyh on Jan 9, 2016 10:33:01 GMT -8
I have do work on some mud coated house. I don't know what that's for but if you only intend to build stoves one by one the machines you show seem oversized to me. The best when we do coating is an used petrin backer. Instead, we use some big mixer in old bathtub, and concrete mixer. The concrete mixer is best with petrol engine than electrical, "cause you can fit the speed. As mud is much more adherent than cement it can stay glued on the border and not mix when the machine run too well.
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 9, 2016 17:51:29 GMT -8
@karl do you think the picture of the blue and yellow machine in this post is close enough to an auger mixer? I has 2 spinning blades, but they are more flat compared to the video you shared. I actually found that video before, which gave me the idea to find a machine like that. I guess the idea would be the auger type, but if I can't find it do you think the one above can work? I am building a cob house so I need a lot of cob. Dustin |
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 9, 2016 18:33:21 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2016 22:17:52 GMT -8
The advantage of auger mixers is that they not only can mix,
but also can slowly move the material out of the machine.
Could even be combined with an extruder for making building blocks.
Auger mixers can run continuously, feeded at one end
and filling the material directly into something eg. bags at the other.
While two augers would be better, one should be able to do the job alone.
Auger mixers as you have posted are offered at alibaba
for mixing concrete, mortar or soil.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2016 0:24:15 GMT -8
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reyh
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Post by reyh on Jan 10, 2016 3:12:55 GMT -8
I am building a cob house so I need a lot of cob. Dustin Sound interesting! Can you quickly explain how it's build, the technique. I imagine it's far different from what we do around me. Thanks |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2016 4:58:15 GMT -8
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 10, 2016 17:15:57 GMT -8
danielI am talking to the supplier of this machine below. He says this functions just like an auger. Do you think this would work? Instead of wider screw type design, it has flat plates. I think I can find augers and replace them with the blade set up below. Maybe I should experiment with both types? As far as a rototiller, that looks like as much work as just using my feet to make cob. Do you think a diesel engine would be better than using an electric motor? The wattage I have available in the mountains isn't that high, so I might have to use a petroleum powered engine.  
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2016 5:35:08 GMT -8
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 11, 2016 15:04:46 GMT -8
@karl I am trying to picture whether a tractor tiller/roto tiller would work on my clay soil. The soil is probably 80-90% clay and it is compacted in the ground. Would I first have to dig up what I need and then drive the tiller over it? I need to study the technique in order to evaluate this option. My location is on a mountainside, and I am going to use a flat area which has good clay soil. I will add sand.
It looks like I will still have to use my feet to compress the straw into the clay and sand. Right?
Do I first plow loose the soil an then move it to a separate processing area, or just process it directly from where the soil is? I will read those materials you sent in more detail.
Since my location is in the mountains, I will need a rototiller, not a tractor.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2016 6:19:38 GMT -8
No, you do not need to use your feet to compress the straw into the clay and sand if you use a rototiller. The ability of a rototiller to dig into compacted ground depends on its ability to exert pressure. The pressure depends on its weight, the number of tine discs, the kind of tines and the rotations direction if it has traction wheels. Without traction wheels a depth bar allows to dig deeper into the soil and break it apart, by restraining the forward motion of the tiller. Rototillers can also drag a plow. What you should know before you buy a tiller. www.cleveland.com/insideout/index.ssf/2012/04/what_you_should_know_before_ge.htmlwww.youtube.com/results?search_query=rototiller+digging+ching+yeeAs one can see in the videos by ching yee, even a small rototiller can be a powerful tool to break up even very hard soil, shredd branches, dig holes or trenches. In most of the videos a depth bar is used. By judging the videos it looks like it would be the best, if possible, to mix in a rather dry state and add water later as required. |
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Post by dustinmattison on Jan 12, 2016 15:02:10 GMT -8
@karl Thanks for your help. I am trying to figure out what kind of tiller will work best in small hilly spots in the mountainside. I have relatively flat patches of maybe 5 to 10 feet where I can till. So I need to be able to move back and forth and in different directions within the small spaces. If I get a rear-tine tiller I don't know if it would be too big to maneuver. But I think because it is heaver and bigger it will do a better quicker job. I will watch those Youtube videos to see if I can find an answer... I am thinking this one might be a good choice, it is heavy duty and not too big:  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2016 23:03:26 GMT -8
I am thinking this one might be a good choice, it is heavy duty and not too big: Looks quite oversized for patches of maybe 5 to 10 feet. Things like this, likely 10-15 HP, are intended for gardens of several thousand square feet. You could use it to drag a quite large and heavy cart. 5HP tillage blade digging a pool of more than 10 feet. www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_wibxdXHSc |
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