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Post by sibelius on Jul 29, 2015 12:01:54 GMT -8
Hi folks,
I have a lazy 8" rocket stove with the traditional "J" system. I have many question about the "J" and "L" bactch box system.
- Is it possible to modify my "J" 8" to a 6" Bacht box and keep the same heat riser with the same barrel? I guess I have modify the height. diameter will be wrong. - I like the "J" feeding is it possible to combine two feeds inlet on a batch box? I mean build the batch box and add a door on the top? I don't know if it is possible! - What about keeping the "J" rocket and build the batch box next the "J" with the same heat riser? - Is it possible to cook on the barrel with a batch box? The fire is at the bottom. - I wondering if it is possible to modify the width of the 6" firebox to use as a oven when the fire is finish? maybe juste for the size of a small pizza? What about the depth? Is it possible to get 21" of depth?
Thanks a lot for the people who knows !
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Post by satamax on Jul 29, 2015 13:15:10 GMT -8
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Post by sibelius on Aug 1, 2015 0:16:53 GMT -8
Merci Satamax,
But I don't find all the answers in this treat !
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Post by satamax on Aug 1, 2015 4:10:44 GMT -8
Well, i wouldn't do a dual batch and J with the same riser. The door on top is possible, it's been done once iirc. Tho, you will have smoke back if you open it at the wrong time.
I would leave the riser as is, 8 inch. I have done that on a smaller scale with the range retrofit. It is possible to cook on top of the barrel, but Peter says it's better to have a big heat riser gap, around 1 foot.
If your firebox is too wide, you will be overfueling the rocket.
21 lenght, i'd say no prob.
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Post by sibelius on Aug 1, 2015 11:50:19 GMT -8
Ok thank you for the answers satamax. I will keep my heat riser of 8" and put 1 feet of gap on top of it! I don't realy know how I will make the second door on top I will think about it. I guess it is only possible to open the top door when the batch box is hot.
What the consequence of overfeeding ? So I will only modify the depth and just a little bit the wide.
I have a special door of fresh air on my "J" rocket how can I use it for the batch box? I mean I don't want to make a hole on the batch box door for the 20% of air I would like to take the air from the outside. Just the P channel will take the aire in the inside of the house. Do you know a post of it?
Where I live in France I don't find riser of ceramic I guess I shouldn't use my old steel riser but I have no choice for the moment so I will try with it. It is a big pipe of steel wall 1,5cm
Merci max
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Post by satamax on Aug 1, 2015 13:06:41 GMT -8
Where are you in France? Might be near me? May be!
Overfeeding makes thick black smoke! I know i manage to make wider than usual batch boxes, but there's a certain limit. And without a testo, i can't tell if it realy affects the stove that bad!
I would say, don't use your steel riser! Even that thick. It will burn out at some point! Using outside air is known for giving more trouble than what it's worth. And about your door options, i don't know. Pics might be in order!
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Post by sibelius on Aug 1, 2015 23:26:47 GMT -8
I'm next to Germany the biggest city near to me is Strasbourg in Alsace.
Ok so how do you think i can modify the box for the 6" at is maximum without get the overfeeding point? I don't have testo. What do you mean when you said "Using outside air is known for giving more trouble than what it's worth." You don't think is a good idea to take the air from the outside? But if you don't the house will take the coold air outside by the defaut of the isolation of the house. Why you get trouble with this configuration?
If I can't find ceramic riser and steel will burn what do you advice to use?
Thanks for you help
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Post by satamax on Aug 2, 2015 0:20:25 GMT -8
Well, go to the other side of the border! www.tona-schornsteine.de/de/TONA-International/about-TONA.htmlwww.schiedel.com/And if you don't have a pasive house, i's better to get the air from the inside. Because the air tube gives some drag, and makes the system slow, if it's long. It can revert as a chimney too in certain cases, because the air hasn't been pre heated and the chimney is cold too. And i'm absolutely not a fan of airtight houses.
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Post by sibelius on Aug 2, 2015 11:44:58 GMT -8
Ok Merci I will check in germany. I Don't have a passive house but a house with a good isolation with straw ball. I have in my J rocket both air from inside and outside, and you are right when use the air from the outside the rocket go slowly. So I will try the different element you tell me. Thanks a good continuation see you later
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Post by sibelius on Feb 5, 2017 7:35:23 GMT -8
So I will give some news about my 6" batchrocket building. The size of my bach box are width 24 cm height 36 cm depth 54 cm so in inches it is W 944" x H 14,17" x D 21,25" -So I thing it is too big for the 6" because when I look outside on my Roofing chimney it's look like grey so i guess the overfeeding point is exceed. This is not good and I have to modify the box for that. -I Can cook on the barrel its work great !!! -The oven is great for cooking two bread. its take 25 minute and it is very good !! photo bread-The outside fresh air is not working at all. I still do not understand why. I abandon the idea of the door on top. So I will try to modify the batch for non overfeeding. I am interesting on the Straight cast core, 5 parts and the Floor channel but I don't understand where is the the input of the primary air.
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Post by peterberg on Feb 5, 2017 9:11:34 GMT -8
The primary and secondary air inlet are combined. Since the air inlet is low in the door, directly in front of the floor channel entrance, that one is always served best. The primary air need to go up, around that triangular piece of steel in order to enter the firebox. How it works: firebox hot, air cold (comparatively) so air stays low at first, feeding the floor channel at max even when the air inlet is opened only halfway. That height difference is a must, and can be further tuned with the distance between the door and the triangle. For more detail: see batchrocket.eu/en/applications#redbell, the SketchUp drawing is at the end of the article.
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Post by satamax on Feb 5, 2017 9:58:21 GMT -8
Sibelius, what is your batch made of? To me, that's not much bigger. Does your smoke disapear right after the chimney end, like a meter or so? If yes, it,s mostly steam. I would say, make it with primary air taken into the room. This is the first test. Use the driest hardwood you can get. Big pieces, not kindling. And see what it does.
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Post by sibelius on Feb 5, 2017 13:43:42 GMT -8
Thank you Peterberg for the good explanation now I understand the floor channel. I was wondering why there is no metal triangle on this picture ? Thank you Satamax for helping me. The batch is made from brick refractory the heat rise of ciment refractory 1600 C° the door inox. Maybe your are right about the steam but I am not sure I will try to burn big and dry pieces of wood and take à video ou the smoke on the roof. Moreover the max temperature I got on the vertical top on the barrel with the magnet thermometer is 250°C I think it is not enough is that right?
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Post by peterberg on Feb 6, 2017 2:20:25 GMT -8
I was wondering why there is no metal triangle on this picture? The explanation is simple, really. This picture was taken during development, the whole of winter 2015/2016. The final configuration is a little different but the drawing is updated to reflect the now stable situation. That triangle piece doesn't need to be that shape, of course.
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