Post by misterjimbo on Jun 27, 2015 18:14:46 GMT -8
A ROCKET STOVE
By MisterJimbo
I built a rocket stove from a discarded fire extinguisher. The can is 9” across and is 19” tall. I cut it exactly where the domed top joins the sides resulting in the top being turned over and set into the can. The result is a depressed dish going 1” down to the chimney. The side fuel / air port is made of 4” x ¼” pipe with a 3/8” back wall welded on. The 3” diameter chimney is 7” long. With a hole saw I cut a hole into the top of the 4” pipe, inserted the 3” chimney and welded it on. I then cut the chimney edges off the inside of the 4” pipe with another hole saw. This resulted in a very clean transition from the fuel input to burn chamber and directly up through the chimney. I cut a hole in the can top with a 3.5” hole saw and it fit down around the chimney. The top is held in place with screws and can be removed if needed. Screws are threaded into the top as air clearance supports. I used a piece of stainless steel, perforated with ¼” holes as the fuel support. A small sheet metal door can close off the fuel access above the fuel port leaving only the air path under it. The can is filled with lava stone below the burn chamber and perlite for insulation above. Over all, the stove weighs about 25 pounds. It is very stable and doesn’t even wobble with the pan full of water on top.
It has a swinging handle screwed to each side.
Because of poor planning the complete welded ‘L’ would not fit into the can. I had to slit the can down to the 4.5” side hole and force the ‘L’ in. The seam was closed and repaired with a stainless cover riveted on.
I painted it and made the first burn test one week later. It was a success. It brought 1 liter of water to a rolling boil in less than 11 minutes.
By MisterJimbo
I built a rocket stove from a discarded fire extinguisher. The can is 9” across and is 19” tall. I cut it exactly where the domed top joins the sides resulting in the top being turned over and set into the can. The result is a depressed dish going 1” down to the chimney. The side fuel / air port is made of 4” x ¼” pipe with a 3/8” back wall welded on. The 3” diameter chimney is 7” long. With a hole saw I cut a hole into the top of the 4” pipe, inserted the 3” chimney and welded it on. I then cut the chimney edges off the inside of the 4” pipe with another hole saw. This resulted in a very clean transition from the fuel input to burn chamber and directly up through the chimney. I cut a hole in the can top with a 3.5” hole saw and it fit down around the chimney. The top is held in place with screws and can be removed if needed. Screws are threaded into the top as air clearance supports. I used a piece of stainless steel, perforated with ¼” holes as the fuel support. A small sheet metal door can close off the fuel access above the fuel port leaving only the air path under it. The can is filled with lava stone below the burn chamber and perlite for insulation above. Over all, the stove weighs about 25 pounds. It is very stable and doesn’t even wobble with the pan full of water on top.
It has a swinging handle screwed to each side.
Because of poor planning the complete welded ‘L’ would not fit into the can. I had to slit the can down to the 4.5” side hole and force the ‘L’ in. The seam was closed and repaired with a stainless cover riveted on.
I painted it and made the first burn test one week later. It was a success. It brought 1 liter of water to a rolling boil in less than 11 minutes.