Well, I haven't quite figured that all the way out yet. Right now I have a 1.5" steel pipe ending just as the port begins. I figure I'll put a 90 elbow so that it sticks more or less into the port at the near end in the short term. Long-term it'll take some more thought. Likely a walker-type floor channel ending mid-port, I'd think.
DC, a fella over at Permsteading was playing with whole builds of super wool a few years back. Here's a link to the last iteration. If you search that user or BOOH you'll find more ideas for your wool. I think it works fine, but is permeable, so I believe it isn't a great choice on it's own.
I suspect you are over estimating the IFB wear. Try it. They work great, and it will take a long time to wear one to the point of being a worry. At which point your other ideas are still valid.
Another thought: I could just use IFB, and after it gets nicked up a bit, I could use a "hard" mix such as the guy in the post you linked to is using, or that other folks are experimenting with, and "paint" a few layers of it on to make a hard over-layer that I could touch up if I ever felt the need. And given your positive experience with IFB, I may never need to even do that.
walker - what firebrick temp rating did you use when playing with IFB? Do you think 2000 degree F good enough? Seems to me that would be fine since this wouldn't come near the temp of a forces-air forge, I'm guessing.
Post by matthewwalker on Jan 26, 2017 8:05:28 GMT -8
I'm not sure DC, they were given to me from a kiln tear down. They are white, and extremely light, <1lb. And yeah, if they get bad enough to worry about over time, then we can figure out a liner or insert. It will take a while.
Oh, edit: Temp rating in my experience is a function of density, so I'd go for the lower rated ones. 2000 sounds good. They won't melt no matter what the rating.
The insulating Refractory Bricks I got recently are incredibly light. The first one I picked up I almost ended up throwing across the room because I expected it to be a lot heavier than it was. You can see why if you look closely at the surface of them, it's made up of thousands of air bubbles about 1 to 1.5mm in size. The supplier has them down as being made of Alumina and silica, I guess their using some kind of foaming agent to get the air into them.
They're quite soft, you can just about scratch the surface with a finger nail and leave a mark. Easy to work with as you can saw them with a plain wood saw. Haven't tried them out in a stove yet, but the temp rating is 1200*C / 2190*F.
After some research, the nearest refractory supplier is over an hour away. Since time is my enemy, I bit the bullet and ordered a single brick online. I figure I'll cut it into sections and test a couple of different ideas for abrasion resistance, and let you all know how it comes out.
dan0: I don't have any castable refractory, but I seem to recall seeing some approximate recipes around. Maybe there is something I can dig up to come close. I also need to return to Karl's geopolymer thread and see if I have the ingredients for a small batch of the stuff he cooks up.
Probably it makes sense to try a mortar mix as well, such as Walker's 3:1 sand:clay mix.
wiscojames: Thanks, that's good data. I'll make a fireclay slip and build up a layer on one of the test sections.
DC, Castable refractory mixes are mostly made from material that has been fired to a very high temperature and crushed to 3mm or less, it's known as 'grog', and a high temperature cement like Ciment fondue.
My local supplier has a bit on their website that says "Firebrick is made from crushed firebrick" - which begs the question where did the first firebricks come from?
One sack of castable I had last year contained some bits that had escaped the crusher and so were easy to identify, these included bits of electrical ceramic insulators and pieces of old clay red bricks, and Lots of bits that looked like porcelain.
I homemade some last year from old crushed fired clay roof tiles sieved through a 3mm screen and mixed 5-1 with ciment fondue. I also made some from my local clay which is mostly Alumina & Silica screened down to 3mm and mixed with the ciment fondue. The local clay one has done 4 months in my firebox and is still perfect.
TexasGonzo: Sooooo glad I found this site! Its always rewarding to find such a super group of folks! To any and all, feel free to PM me anytime. Thanks for having me!
Mar 11, 2019 18:56:41 GMT -8
jlmtech: GADGET: CONSIDER USING A JET PUMP INSTEAD OF A BLOWER FAN TO INDUCE DRAFT; NO CLOGGING.
Mar 26, 2019 8:19:28 GMT -8
michaelegan: i am unable to open the sketchup files on my mac. I used sketchup a few years back but apparently the company now requires a subscription. does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to use the program or how to view pictures without spending money?
Aug 20, 2019 18:41:48 GMT -8
mannytheseacow: michaelegan: download AutoCAD student version for free... import .SKP
Aug 23, 2019 13:33:44 GMT -8
topbaza: hi everyone, been searching all over net and this is were i need to be i think!!
Sept 28, 2019 6:16:25 GMT -8
anounaki: Hi, why I cant upload photos when I make new tread to this forum?
Feb 28, 2020 2:09:40 GMT -8
ahansen: photos under 1 mb not possible?
Jun 4, 2020 0:09:21 GMT -8
belgiangulch: Photo's are possible. They must be downloaded elsewhere and the image url (adress) is copyied.
Sept 14, 2020 7:26:15 GMT -8
belgiangulch: While creating a thread click on the small picture in the banner above the reply. A box pops up, paste the image url in the box. Pay no attention to the huge list of numbers and such.When you finish and hit reply your post with pictures will come up.
Sept 14, 2020 7:29:27 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: Hi there. I was directed this way by folks on the Permies.com website and am hoping I can get some information on how a total newbie can get started designing, siting, building, and not-dying-in-a-horrible-house-fire with a new RMH in a 160-year old home
Oct 21, 2020 6:52:10 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: The people over there recommended either a 6" batchbox or an 8" J-tube. I don't know what those are but am going to try to figure that out. What I need is a blueprint that I can scale to fit the need for my house. I have something likne 5000 square feet
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:00 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: but I do not need to heat all of it by any means. probably only need to heat half of that, maybe less.
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:15 GMT -8
deadstarsstillburn: moreover, the house has 3 storeys (large attic) so I assume if I get very efficient heating on the ground floor, that will go a long way toward heating the upstairs as well, no?
Oct 21, 2020 6:53:59 GMT -8
BenAlexanderT: Happy new year everybody. I wish you the best
Dec 31, 2020 15:06:14 GMT -8
Solomon: Anybody in Southern Oregon, in Jackson or Josephine counties?
Jan 16, 2021 21:54:43 GMT -8
gnomedome: i realsie this is from 2009
Apr 14, 2021 8:30:44 GMT -8
gnomedome: i realize this is from 2009 id love to see the photos from this ..as im looking to build a sauna soon similar to this .... if anyody sees this post email@example.com..... the photos in this post did not show up
Apr 14, 2021 8:32:00 GMT -8