complete batch box masonry stove

[caty]

Good afternoon to all.
I would like to know, with your consent, if  is possible  build a full masonry stove ,with bell, batch box as fire box,oven,cooking hod,water heater 10-12kw,as in the attachment below.
Thanks.
With respect.

[satamax]

Duh, are you tall, blonde and with a good figure? Single may be? A little introduction, few words, starting may be by hello! Would have been nice. Henceforth, i will not reply to this! Even if i had an opinion!

[caty]

Good evening dear forum.
I am a new user,from Romania,and kindly ask to accept my apologies because i did not make a nice introduction.
I try to find out which of the solutions should be chosen .Of course,with your help and patience.So,I try to find a stove „tall, blonde and with a good figure”, to be possible on simple cooking and to warm the entire house.
Best wishes.

[ericvw]

Nice , caty, and welcome!
satamax, will you proceed?
Eric VW

[ge0rge]

Thank you very much.
I think it is not possible to build a stove how I dream.
It is more than stove,first off all it is a heating water stove,and second a cooking machine.
Water heater radiator works with a pump,should be in a bell an the stove should release just two kw in the room where will be build,in a kitchen room.
I did in sketchup a drawing,but the stove has a normal fire box,with superior combustion,one bell and an 10-12 kw radiator.
I do not know how to design a stove complete,to not have deposits on the radiator surface.The cooking plate(hob) change everything.
With respect.

[Donkey]

In short, yes.
But it's a thorny problem that will require a lot of thought and some compromise to pull off.
Welcome!

[caty]

Thanks.I know that the idea is not the best.It is possible to pear the bell, radiator and bell with batch box,but the problem comes from cooking plate.I chose the batch box because it has burning cleaner and more complete,compared with upper burning where,the mixture of primary and secondary air is more picky to obtain gasification.
So,to have a ”complete” wood stove,need to find a way to combine radiator with cooking plate.
If it is necessary 10 -12kw for radiator,how big should be wood container and ricer to get 14-15kw per total?
It is possible to use a single riser and to distribute to the two holes on two different levels?
How many kw can retrieve a cooker hobs?
With respect.

[caty]

So can not give anyone nozzle sizes, wood box and ricer sizer for 14kw?
Or which of the sizes in the table of the Mr Peter would correspond to 14kw of power?

[caty]

So... such a stove as in drawing, it won't work .Maybe just a dumper derivation of the cooking plate.

Attachments:

[peterberg]

Caty,
Such a stove as you want doesn't exists up till now. With every function you'll add, some or all of the other functions will be compromised. When you want to cook on a heater and an oven inside, the heater function isn't up to the job or the water won't boil for hours.

The only question I am able to answer is about the power. The muchtested 150 mm version can yield 12 to 20 Kw, depending how much fuel you load it with. For size of different parts like the size of the firebox or the port, please read this thread carefully. It's a tried and tested design, keep as close to the given dimensions as possible.

[caty]

Dear Mr Peter,thanks a lot for your answer.
So I am dreaming of ”green horses on the walls”...In this case I will see how to make a dumper to deviate the fire under the kooking plate,and from hear to the bell with radiator.The most important it is the heating home system and second the rest.I want to use ceramic bricks for high temperature and to double with red bricks.I steel do not know how many kw will be lost through plate and even if I mount the plate directly over wood-burning deposit,I will not get good temperature to cock,because the deposit will be minimum 1 meter high,to have a good autonomy.The drawing I did it is just an example to understand better what I want,but the arrangement of components will be different.

Attachments:

[caty]

Good morning.
I found some help for calculations, and resulted like a ricer 13 cm is enough for 14 kw.
Perhaps I'll use a ricer with square section side equal to 13-14 cm,to enlarge the size of the fire box in.I'll keep the dimensions for P channel and nozzle(throat)4,68x1,42cm and 4,7x20,6cm.The dimensions of wood box will be width -190mm,height 1200mm(80 liters),depth 510mm.
I noticed that, usually, the chamber of wood ensure a burning for 90minute., that means a volume of 20 liters.
May I increase this room to 80 liters to provide combustion for 6 hours?How many chances are likely to ignite the whole amount of firewood?
Thanks.
Best wishes.

[peterberg]

Feb 27, 2015 2:11:35 GMT -8 caty said:

May I increase this room to 80 liters to provide combustion for 6 hours?How many chances are likely to ignite the whole amount of firewood?

You could do that, but it's quite certain your stove will smoke like mad. The proportions of the whole thing are very important, stick to the spreadsheet when you want the thing to work at all.

The dimensions of the p-channel and port are correct for a 130 mm system but the firebox is not. That should be width 187 mm, height 280 mm and depth 374 mm. The only dimension which could be larger by about 40% is the depth.

[caty]

Good afternoon.
Mr Peter,thanks for advice. My main concern is not smoke, but the fact that it can ignite the entire quantity of wood if the door is not sealed very good.
With the depth of box I will go to 520 mm maximum.
Best regards.

[peterberg]

Feb 27, 2015 8:24:03 GMT -8 caty said:

My main concern is not smoke, but the fact that it can ignite the entire quantity of wood if the door is not sealed very good.

I think that is exactly what will happen rather sooner than later. In a batch box design like mine, during every burn all the fuel will ignite. It is designed this way to handle that situation. Your latest drawing shows a large fuel stock right above the fire. This is asking for trouble, the stock will start to heat up and combustible gases will be released to form a very explosive concoction. The only way to avoid that is cooling the fuel below self-ignition temperature. Something like what mr. Richard Hill did in the second half of the seventies.