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Post by woodman on Oct 30, 2009 22:00:59 GMT -8
I have an 8' and 9' wall to build an L shape mass heater which will horizontally exhaust out the wall.
What should be laid down first (and how thick) on the concrete floor to insulate the burn tunnel ? And won't the floor suck the heat out of the thermal mass if not insulated some way?
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Post by swizzlenutz on Oct 31, 2009 6:42:45 GMT -8
The concrete floor should become in essence a part of your thermal mass I would think. You would get the heat back as radiant heat over time, a few hours maybe more. If you need the heat for an upstairs room then I'm not sure how you would insulate it to keep heat concentrated in your wall or elsewhere. I wouldn't think that it would Suck the heat out as much as just adding to your mass? If anything you have a nice place to put your wood to dry it out a little bit better before burning. Just my opinion and I'm far from an expert. Donkey could probably answer this a bit better for you. Swizzle
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Post by Donkey on Oct 31, 2009 9:57:38 GMT -8
The concrete might heat shock. I'd protect it from the most intense heat right under the burn tunnel. It will act as thermal mass storage too, as swizzlenutz has said.
You can build a small chamber out of brick or cob or adobe. Bricks on edge, bridged with bricks, filled with pearlite/clay or pumice.
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Post by swizzlenutz on Oct 31, 2009 10:30:18 GMT -8
Would it be better to leave the bridges open so you can place the next sticks to burn under the stove for optimal drying? Swizzle
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Post by Donkey on Oct 31, 2009 20:06:17 GMT -8
It's possible.. Maybe a good idea, though if wood clogged the airflow, you could get heat buildup and a fire.
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Post by swizzlenutz on Nov 1, 2009 6:40:23 GMT -8
My first thoughts were to build a concrete, open topped box, (cinder blocks or brick), beside the stove to put wood in. No where's near the entrance or exit of the stove. I guess to best describe what I'm talking about is picture the base of the stove as the top of a coffee table and the space underneath the coffee table is where you keep your wood. In this case there would be a lot more supports then 4 legs in the corners. Just small gaps under the stove to slide wood chunks under for drying. I think 2 side boxes would be a better idea. Swizzle
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Post by woodman on Nov 4, 2009 5:41:17 GMT -8
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Post by Donkey on Nov 4, 2009 8:21:45 GMT -8
Assuming you will be replacing the couch with a rocket stove bench..
You could place the rocket stove fire box by the door, start the run there, take it to the L, turn right, go to the end of the couch, 180, go back to the outside wall, through and out. If you return all the way back to the stove (that is come back down the short run) before going outside, it increases the length even more. It also gives the opportunity to pick up a little heat from the barrel to run the chimney on as the length could sap PLENTY of heat. The difficulty of doing what I just layed out would be in placing clean-outs, you should have one for every run of pipe.
If you don't intend to use all that space as bench and you want something smaller, you could create something more like peterbergs bell stove bench. The bell chambers are very good at using and distributing heat.
Also, with shorter pipe runs, if they angle down, you will sap more heat from them quicker.
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Post by woodman on Nov 4, 2009 10:09:25 GMT -8
Is the heat exiting the riser to hot for standard furnace duct? Here is a pic. of the stove on opposite wall, the door is to the right. It keeps the 2000. sq, foot around 70deg. running 24-7 when it is in single digits outside. The house has 10'' thick Styrofoam block walls. The area where the stove is was an add on I built like a poll barn. I was going to use straw bales but was pressed for time back then. Their is 1'' of stucco over the foam. i147.photobucket.com/albums/r302/scrawford_photos/our%20house/600x450PIC_0475.jpg![]() [/img] |
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