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Post by independentenergy on Jul 13, 2014 10:05:31 GMT -8
Hello everyone Looking to build a rocket-stove in my house before this winter. I just built a masonry stove j-tube, so now I want to build a batch-box, I do not have much experience so I would submit my design to you, if you find the critical points in the drawing, please tell me. I'm sure it will work, it's a long time since this project stove. I live on the second floor and then to weight problems can not overdo the weight, I have to build a reinforced base to support the stove. This is the design: A.jpg  A....skpthanks |
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Post by peterberg on Jul 14, 2014 3:23:45 GMT -8
Looks alright to me.
Some remarks: The slanted sides of the firebox should be ending in a horizontal surface as wide as the port.
Under the firebox there's an opening, probably for an ash drawer. If that is the case, the opening in the firebox floor should be starting no less than one third of the firebox' depth behind the door. Additionally, the ash drawer should be airtight in order to avoid air coming in from under the floor. In short: the ash drawer can't act as an air register.
It's unclear what system size you like to build, but I presume it's a 6" or 15 cm system. In that case, all the inside surfaces shouldn't add up to more than 6 sq m. or 64.6 sq ft. Also the pillars in the bench are area space.
The lower opening in the upstream channel should be wider than system size or slightly higher above the floor of the bell in order to avoid a possible restriction. A way to do this is to place the channel on pillars, creating three openings. Those should together be about 1,5 times the area as system size, preferably.
The top of the bell, all the masonry above the riser should be constructed out of refractory material. This could be done by making the top double-walled. Two distinctly separate walls with some mineral wool between those.
The higher opening in the side of the upstream channel looks like a bypass opening. That's alright, but I feel it should be situated a bit higher, let's say halfway riser height.
There's no cleanout opening to give access to the bell's floor, preferably to reach the lower exhaust opening. Dust will settle in that bell so it's necessary to clean it out, say, every two years.
A very ambitiously project, especially the cul-de-sac bench, but it will work as it has been done before.
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Post by independentenergy on Jul 15, 2014 2:52:18 GMT -8
hello Peter thanks for the support. For the oblique sides, I do not know if I understand, but I settled on this new design, so is it correct? 5cm approximately as the width of the door. It is an ash tray and is hermetically sealed, I will use the measures that you have shown me to place the opening. I have one more question, what size it is the primary air intake? Yes the system is a 6 "15cm, calculating only the bell are 5.5 square meters without the bench. but considers that the Bypass (I up) does not help you function better a bell a little bigger? Keep in mind also that the stove is 55cm long then more power .. I have, however, reduced the diqnsione the bench in order to fall within the 6 square meters. I have a question, what is the effect of a bell too big? and a too small? I have corrected the opening for the outflow of gas from the base of the chimney, there are now three openings. I thought for the use of masonry in the hottest part of the upper, industrial refractory bricks (1600 ° C) just above the batch-box use bricks resistant to approximately 800 ° C, the parts in contact with the wall of the house will be insulated with Superwool, in the visible parts I wanted to use the cardboard to match a jacket made of stone or brick, what do you think? However, I must pay attention to the total weight of the stove should be as low as possible. For cleaning, I made a door at the end of the bench and then I thought I'll open the top removable for access to the inside of the stove  10.skp |
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Post by peterberg on Jul 16, 2014 8:36:38 GMT -8
For the oblique sides, I do not know if I understand, but I settled on this new design, so is it correct? 5cm approximately as the width of the door. Yes, this is what I've meant. Main air inlet is 20% of the riser csa. This is dependant on the quality of the chimney versus the internal friction of the stove, some stoves do need a wider opening, like 30%. When the sotve isn't dried out yet it certainly need more but to that end you could open the door a crack. You could use the bypass to tune the stove while running. Using this you can get away with a larger bell. When the bell is too big, notably without a bypass, you run the risk of stalling the chimney while the stove is revving up. Largely due to low temperature and therefore condensation in the chimney. Could be done, but the stove as a whole won't be lightweight at all, rather the opposite. |
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Post by pyrophile on Jul 21, 2014 12:11:29 GMT -8
What are the dimensions of the place to heat?
I am afraid that a single brick wall will release too much heat too fast. I would rather use about 15cm thick walls . If you have a problem with weight, use a rather insulative coating (a lot of hemp for example) to slow heat transfer. Not fired bricks (compressed earthen bricks)are a bit more insulative too.
If you don't need heat behind the walls where the stove is , think to insulate behind the stove to prevent to heat your neighbours or outside air.
Benoit
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Post by independentenergy on Jul 26, 2014 12:35:59 GMT -8
Benoit
the room is 5 square meters, I thought of using a wall covering made of stone or brick, and isolate the two walls with something ...
I have to build a reinforcement on the floor for safety.
I'm still considering the best solution.
if you were using bricks laid flat 11cm wall thickness would be that type of coating can I use?
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Post by pyrophile on Jul 28, 2014 11:17:56 GMT -8
5m2? or 50?
5 is too little, 50 is not small.
Considering your drawing above, you must remember that only half of your stove's surface radiates in the room. Half.
How are made your walls? Are they insulated? By inside or outside?
Are there rooms around? Without plans, it is difficult to help well.
For walls I use bricks, fired or not. Sometimes concrete blocks if money lacks.
When the bricks are old (second-hand) and beautyfull, I let them without coating. Rather in big places (I think, but I may be wrong, that they radiate a bit more than not fired bricks).
For coating, you can coat or not. Coating is not so easy. If you never did, maybe you could find somebody who knows. .
I use to plaster with earth (and sand). In the middle of the plaster I let fiber glass "net" to prevent cracking.
Then 5 or 50m2?
Benoit
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Post by independentenergy on Aug 1, 2014 2:46:52 GMT -8
Sorry, I do not know why I wrote that thing ...
the room is about 16 square meters.
The back wall from the outside, the side wall by the stairway to the first floor.
I'm going to isolate both of these walls, but it is also possible to conduct these walls? would warm the wall that still facing into the room, to even out ..
Bricks will use at high temperature in the upper part of the stove and red brick refractory in the lower part, say under the heat riser.
For this reason I have to cover, the bricks are not all the same, I experimented with sand and ground grid in fiberglass but I fear that my wife does not like too much.
coat of stone 5/6 cm?
in the middle of the insulation ...
the thickness of the front walls then it should be 15/16 cm.
Approximately this stove could weigh 2000kg?
thank you
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