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Post by Donkey on Jan 22, 2014 10:24:52 GMT -8
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Post by matthewwalker on Jan 22, 2014 11:07:00 GMT -8
Great design Donkey. I like her sunglasses.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2014 11:11:36 GMT -8
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Hot Water
Jan 22, 2014 12:34:35 GMT -8
via mobile
Post by ronyon on Jan 22, 2014 12:34:35 GMT -8
Beautiful!
Two questions:
1.what is the skin of the bell made of?
2.why is the bell set on a pedestal instead of extending to the floor level?
I have a guess that the size of the barrel used for to hold the buffering water might dictate a smaller bell...
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Post by Donkey on Jan 22, 2014 13:18:17 GMT -8
Matthew, Thanks! The figure comes with the software, NOT my doing.  Karl, Nice image of a boiler.. That is of course, a classic piece of tech, built by a company or persons who are highly trained. That boiler also requires a host of other pieces, built by similarly qualified individuals, to insure it's safety and reliability. This design is intended for novices, to be put together (from scratch) in spare time, without specialized tools. parts or knowledge. Look carefully! This design, if followed accordingly, doesn't require any safety parts (I'd use them anyway) beyond the design itself. All it requires is a water supply and faucet. Beautiful! Two questions: 1.what is the skin of the bell made of? Anything that can be insulated and handle a little bit of heat. While modeling this, I imagined heavy-duty hardware mesh, insulated with kaowool (or some such) and earth plastered. Seemed like the thing to do at the time.  It's a compromise. My thinking is that the water tank should be elevated to get it closer to the generation of the heat and that the greatest surface area exposed to the heat should be the tank, not the bell. You may be correct. This is an early visualization, I have done no measuring or calculating yet. In the drawing, the stove is an 8 inch j-tube and the barrel is (supposed to be) a 30 gallon drum. I got the drum from an on-line model library and haven't actually checked it's accuracy yet. Volumes, sizes, shapes, materials, methods, etc. are likely to change. Quick note though, I think that to work properly inside a bell, there should be a little space around the drum. This is why the bell might seem large. Just a guess.. [/quote] |
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Hot Water
Jan 22, 2014 14:57:08 GMT -8
via mobile
Post by talltuk on Jan 22, 2014 14:57:08 GMT -8
Lovely concept mate. I agree its pretty safe. I would recommend a thermostatic mixing valve on the hot draw off point and a temperature/pressure valve as well, just in cade, but easy to fit and cheap enough.
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Post by Donkey on Jan 22, 2014 15:57:19 GMT -8
Yep.
Also a toilet float and filler valve for the buffer water.
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Post by ronyon on Jan 22, 2014 17:32:18 GMT -8
30 gallon drums are harder to find than 55(around here), but a 30 could fit into a 50, or inside a dryer drum(maybe).
I like your focus on ease of construction.Efficiency is grand, but heating water with waste wood at 75%(made up number) is better than paying to heat it with fuel oil, electric, gas , etc.
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joseph
Junior Member
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Post by joseph on Jan 22, 2014 18:07:43 GMT -8
How do you keep the water in the barrel free of bacteria, etc?
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Post by 2tranceform on Jan 23, 2014 6:50:05 GMT -8
How do you keep the water in the barrel free of bacteria, etc? Fire (heat) should take care of the bacteria. A breather cap could be fitted on top of the vent pipe to reduce foreign material infiltration. |
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Post by ga2500ev on Jan 23, 2014 14:48:05 GMT -8
Donkey,
I have a question or two.
Why is the top of the barrel exposed as opposed to being completely encased in the bell. Presuming that it's metal, would not the exposed top of the barrel serve as a radiator to the outside.
Do you think that concrete wallboard sealed with furnance cement could serve as the interior lining of the bell?
Awesome plan. I have everything to do this except for the barrel.
Thanks.
ga2500ev
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Post by Donkey on Jan 23, 2014 19:06:17 GMT -8
Donkey, I have a question or two. Why is the top of the barrel exposed as opposed to being completely encased in the bell. Presuming that it's metal, would not the exposed top of the barrel serve as a radiator to the outside. It's exposed for easy access. My thought was that some kind of insulating cap or blanket could be placed on top but I didn't model that. I think it's likely that it may be too hot for the concrete board as an INTERNAL liner, but it may be just fine as an OUTER liner, with kaowool (or some such) inside that. Well shoot.. Use a different container, like an old hot water tank or some other metal thing. |
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joseph
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Post by joseph on Jan 24, 2014 6:57:59 GMT -8
How do you keep the water in the barrel free of bacteria, etc? Fire (heat) should take care of the bacteria. A breather cap could be fitted on top of the vent pipe to reduce foreign material infiltration. Note the temperatures: |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2014 7:11:32 GMT -8
Fire (heat) should take care of the bacteria. A breather cap could be fitted on top of the vent pipe to reduce foreign material infiltration. Note the temperatures: Tube temperature will be lower than in the barrel. |
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Post by ga2500ev on Jan 24, 2014 8:56:51 GMT -8
The water temp/bacteria issue actually has a couple of angles:
1. The barrel buffer water isn't relevant because it's never supply water. Also it's likely to boil each time the setup is used so there shouldn't be long term exposure at ambient temperatures anyway.
2. Of course 140F water can scald. However, most people keep water rather cranked up and then mix at the faucet yes?
ga2500ev
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