|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 9, 2019 13:25:24 GMT -8
Moved it to the cooking section, easier done than re-posting. Thank you Peter! I was going to tag you and donkey to ask one of you to do that, but you beat me to it!
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 9, 2019 13:07:34 GMT -8
Hi... I may be the first one to have seen this post as it is in a section of the board used for announcements.
You should re-post it in the “Rocket Stoves for Cooking” section.
People will likely need more info as to the internal construction of the unit to give much useful advice.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 9, 2019 13:02:07 GMT -8
I think a coil in an open bath tank whose “ballast water” is the only thing directly heated by the flame, is the easiest truly safe way to heat water.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 9, 2019 12:59:23 GMT -8
Smaller tube has a higher risk of flashing water to steam, with a lower amount of heat input... larger surface area in proportion to volume of water and flow rate.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 9, 2019 12:49:52 GMT -8
Coastal, I'd think by doing all that, the friction in that area is increased quite a bit. Not to mention making the build more complicated. According to what I've done now the restriction is 1/3 of the top box' csa, leaving 2/3 open. What I am planning to do is hanging a brick down about one inch from the ceiling and one brick on the top box' floor, mimicking a tajine or römertopf or whatever baking or cooking vessel. [ I guess I overestimated the restriction you have there... it looked like about 1/3 open in the pics... 2/3 open would be fine... I just want to be able to see what’s happening “behind the bricks”
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 7, 2019 0:18:57 GMT -8
You can also use the search function on the forum...
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 6, 2019 23:35:57 GMT -8
Yes, I’m thinking of a couple of 45 degree wedges placed on either side above the port like this
/| |\ Maybe 1/3 of the height of the chamber, maybe less. Would be interesting to combine with an immediate downstream obstruction like in Peter’s latest experiment with two bricks blocking off the back of the chamber too and see if there is any synergystic effect between the two... I described this idea and my idea for a neoceram plate as an obstruction instead of the bricks, in that thread.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 6, 2019 22:45:38 GMT -8
I would like to see it with the box blocked from the top, with the bottom 1/3 open, where the back of those bricks were, using a piece of neoceram... :-)
I am also guessing that the restriction after the zone where most reburn activity happens is somehow increasing mixing, in the hottest zone... and that is creating the more stable performance.
I’d also like to see if two wedges placed on either side of the port all the way up to the glass helped create a “Ram’s Horn” concentrated in that rear area.
They would sit on either side of the port opening like this...
/| |\
And extend from the rear wall, toward the front, to the neoceram plate from the ceiling I suggested before, as high as the bottom edge of the neoceram “dam.”
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 5, 2019 12:06:36 GMT -8
The “aiming” of the port might benefit from it extending an inch and a half or so above the bottom deck... and the “obstruction” of the port to lateral motion toward center, sending it up, should enhance the creation of a horizontal vortex in the chamber.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 5, 2019 11:06:48 GMT -8
could a coiled loop be encased in a dry jacket heat sink; such as sand? It could, if heat input surfaces and collection surfaces are properly placed in relation to your solid ballast material... That would reduce the initial intensity of heat input, and could keep boiling from occurring, but total prevention of boiling/excessive heat input, would depend on having enough sand to ballast the maximum possible heat output from the burner to ensure the sand never exceeds 100C, As sand does not have the inheirent phase change based temperature limiting function of an open tank of water around your collection coil. In short, it could still blow up, given a rate of heat input from the ballast mass, that exceeds the ability of the system the coil is connected to, to move water and dump heat.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Feb 5, 2019 10:40:51 GMT -8
Have you new results this year? I'm currently experimenting with zeolite and fireclay,and I'm getting flash setting and very lumpy results. What kind of fire-clay are you using, what other ingredients, and what ratio of ingredients, including H2O?
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 16, 2018 18:05:43 GMT -8
I think it did ok for being subjected to 100k Btu’s and such extreme temp differentials from one area to another... while damp to boot.
The only place on the upper body of the thing that cracked all the way through was the top of the riser where it was super thin on one side. Had some pinholes on the side in that last 4 to 6” at the top. If it had been as thick as the rest I don’t think it would have cracked.
The base that flexed to pull away at the bottom on the feed tube half, and cracked, was a slightly different mix. It had 10g of MKP added to the EPK, and I don’t think I simmered the EPK with vinegar and phosphoric acid for as long. The brown of the air dry surfaces of that one did not occur so strongly on the later mix portions.
It seemed like the air exposed side that had the “brown skin” shrank more than the upward side the formed casting of the second mix was bonded to. I think it might have bonded better to the other side with the skin... or if I had “pre wetted” it better with some of the solution of binder zeolite and EPK, other aggregate powders mix and let that dry before trying to attach to that highly porous face.
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 16, 2018 16:32:02 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 15, 2018 19:02:50 GMT -8
Well, the bond to the baseplate detached on the feed tube end. It has a crack accross it, and there are a couple of other cracks... in the thinnest area of the riser, and in the interior only of the feed tube. The abuse I put it through in terms of heat cycling was pretty extreme though...
How did you discover that EcoTraction was Clinoptilolite?
They seem rather cagey about what it is on their website.
|
|
|
rebuild?
Dec 15, 2018 18:08:21 GMT -8
via mobile
Post by coastalrocketeer on Dec 15, 2018 18:08:21 GMT -8
That is certainly plausible to me... the other thing would be the transition from the bottom of your water heater tank bell to the stove pipe... commonly known as the manifold area. that is a common constriction point, and can also be made worse by fly ash buildup over time, depending on it’s location and the topology around it.
If not such a restriction issue, then your diagnosis sounds like a good possibility as the primary cause to me.
|
|