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Post by gadget on May 7, 2018 21:19:27 GMT -8
An important reason to have a longer riser would be to increase burn dwell time, even if only for a fraction of a second. That is if one was concerned with such things. Sorry if this was already mentioned.
-Gadget
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Post by travis on May 9, 2018 20:20:06 GMT -8
Absolutely, but say you widen the diameter of the riser this would potentially also give an extra piece of a second. Then you can accomodate a cook stove at a realistic cooking height or for another application.
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Post by gadget on May 10, 2018 10:30:46 GMT -8
Absolutely, but say you widen the diameter of the riser this would potentially also give an extra piece of a second. Then you can accomodate a cook stove at a realistic cooking height or for another application. Increasing volume should slow gases but at the same time decrease temperature due to the expansion. I would think that would be a good thing for a cook top due to the heat levels common in a riser The 3 T's of efficient combustion Time Temperature Turbulence |
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Post by peterberg on May 10, 2018 12:12:37 GMT -8
Absolutely, but say you widen the diameter of the riser this would potentially also give an extra piece of a second. Then you can accomodate a cook stove at a realistic cooking height or for another application. Funny, this winter I was playing with this same idea. I'm busy with other things now like furnishing our house at long last. But the idea has surely potential, would you care to try it? |
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kkp
Junior Member
Posts: 55 
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Post by kkp on May 11, 2018 15:29:47 GMT -8
What is really important in the secondary burn area is really good mixing of gaseous fuel and hot oxygen, and a proper ratio of the two, in the lower area of the riser.
I think I'm going to build a burn box outside with my ceramic fiber board and then, play with different configurations of the secondary burn area with the ceramic fiber blanket I also have. I bought a 48" x 25' x 1" roll, I should have enough to play around with.
It's still pretty cold and wet here and I don't have much in the way of covered outside space but, I assure you I will be testing some ceramic fiber blanket riser configurations.
I don't have a testo but maybe after I find a good build I could talk Matt into driving down for a day to test it out. Pretty sure Spokane wouldn't be too far for him, I could be wrong though.
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Post by travis on May 12, 2018 22:22:40 GMT -8
I am very interested in trying this out. i just got a house with my wife, so im hoping to build a stove that can run the exhaust into the old heating wall. Only thing is the chimney is 200 mm and i am thinking the house (50m square) only needs a 150 mm batch box to give ebough heat. But maybe i will aim to work up to a 200 mm heat riser.
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Post by travis on May 14, 2018 6:06:34 GMT -8
Kkp have you tried anything out yet?
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Post by travis on May 24, 2018 5:43:15 GMT -8
Hi everyone! This is my first Batch box build and it was quite a project. A goal I had in this is to try and make the whole stove from the materials that are very easy to get where I live in Mongolia. It may give me trouble but im hoping to learn a lot from all of you out here. It is a 150 mm system with a short riser of 51 cm. The riser begins at 150 and ends at 200 at the top with two small steps out as I made the riser. Too gap of 30cm. The box is made of a mud mix similar to donkeys, grog, clay slip, ash and manure. So far it has held up besides some caving in the roof. The variation of p channel on the stove is to experiment with a channel that needs no welding and can be easily replaced. The stove runs into the old heating wall that came with our house from 20 some years ago. I also built around the old russian stove that is used to heat the radiators in the house. Because of this I have no idea how to give an accurate ISA, but I have added a bypass. This enters the third chamber of the wall which goes straight to the chimney. The chimney is 200x200mm. I welcome any comments or criticism. Im here to learn. Thanks guys So far it runs well but flames come out of the riser sometimes. Maybe considering making the riser slightly taller and wider. Here's a link to photos and a video www.dropbox.com/sh/v8pwo2oiaoa4p1r/AADNtSFouG-4XEwq7ZsuPWFUa?dl=0 |
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Post by travis on May 24, 2018 5:53:13 GMT -8
Well I got my build finished and it is doing decent so far. Theres a thread in finished builds with details on it. Peter, I made the riser with small steps as i went up but flames come out of the riser for a short time after loading. Maybe I should have done a big step or i will try going wider? www.dropbox.com/sh/v8pwo2oiaoa4p1r/AADNtSFouG-4XEwq7ZsuPWFUa?dl=0 |
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Post by travis on May 24, 2018 5:59:41 GMT -8
<imghttp://www.dropbox.com/s/0aed4b35xzqkacd/20180524_162439.jpg?raw=1/>
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Post by peterberg on May 24, 2018 12:34:35 GMT -8
Peter, I made the riser with small steps as i went up but flames come out of the riser for a short time after loading. Maybe I should have done a big step or i will try going wider? I think going wider in one big step won't help. Where's the opening from the bell to the heating wall? I see only one small(ish) opening, in case that is the main through put it should be larger, just a feeling. |
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kkp
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by kkp on May 24, 2018 16:09:03 GMT -8
Kkp have you tried anything out yet? Not yet. I would have liked to this weekend but my finances are a bit short and I need rigidizer still.
Currently I am thinking of making the bottom part of the riser area - up to the height of the port - have a physical way to increase, or help, the double vortex. Just a small V shaped "thing" to help divide the flame directly opposite the port.
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Post by Orange on May 25, 2018 5:01:00 GMT -8
well done  keep us updated! |
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Post by travis on May 25, 2018 5:21:31 GMT -8
Peter
The small opening is the bypass, the main opening to the heating wall is actually the old metal stove on the right side of the bell. I took the top cooking rings off and built around the stove and also left the door open. In the back of the stove the opening to heating wall is at least 200mm. This is mainly to try using the radiator system that is in the house.
Today I made two additions in the heat riser. One, I added about 70mm in height and also two small bricks in the ledges once the steps are above the port. These are very small intrusions into the flame path that I hoped would create more turbulence. The stove now seems to run with no smoke from the chimney even as the bricks I added dried out. Previously there would be several minutes after adding fresh fuel that there would be gray smoke from the chimney.
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Post by travis on May 25, 2018 5:22:31 GMT -8
Kkp have you had trouble forming the double vortex previously?
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