morpho
Junior Member
Posts: 50
|
Post by morpho on Jun 29, 2011 17:02:39 GMT -8
Hi again.
Well I tore down the old rocket and before I build a new one.. i need to pour the floor in the new house. (concrete) Any words of wisdom from anyone about the thickness of the concrete under the rocket? If I should eliminate the insulation under the slab where the main structure will sit? (I already know i can't put the pex tubing there) When I tore down the old RMH the concrete pavers i had it sitting on had no sign of heat reaching them and at no time in the last two winters did I feel those pavers get warmer than the surrounding floor.
I'm just wondering how far I need to go with the under Rocket prep work?
okay...I need to go and rake gravel level.
|
|
|
Post by Donkey on Jun 30, 2011 21:21:43 GMT -8
Eh... I'd put an insulation layer between the stove and the slab.. Better to play it safe.. More than likely, nothing would happen but if it does, it's hard to fix.
|
|
|
Post by canyon on Jun 30, 2011 21:53:25 GMT -8
By the way, foamed glass panels can handle the heat and weight load and are affordable. I am so glad I got turned on to them. EJ Bartels (my firebrick dealer) sells them and I am sure other refractory dealers do as well.
|
|
morpho
Junior Member
Posts: 50
|
Post by morpho on Jul 5, 2011 18:34:05 GMT -8
ah cool...or should I say hot! Foam glass panels.huh...whoooda thunk it?
If I insulate it underneath (I did it with about 2" of perlite on the temporary rocket and didn't see any evidence of excess heat on the concrete pavers)
Anyone think I can run the pex under the RMH if I insulate it? I'd LOVE to just loop the pex and not have to figure out the pattern needed to avoid the heater.
Anyway, Thanks for your insights.
|
|
|
Post by endrunner on Oct 16, 2011 6:56:39 GMT -8
I would stick with copper, pex is not recommended for example on the outflow of ev solar tubes, can't really take the high temps, so I would think you would be in a similar position with rocket stove heat.
|
|