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Post by invention1 on Jan 27, 2018 5:32:50 GMT -8
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Post by matthewwalker on Jan 27, 2018 6:43:17 GMT -8
The floor channel with vertical configuration has more than one function, and part of it's magic is that it heats quickly and passes the heat to the air to preheat. Insulated materials here will hinder the burn.
That's not the main reason that ceramic fiber isn't appropriate for a floor channel though. One of the primary functions of the floor channel is to function as rear andirons, protecting the rear of the firebox and port and maintaining adequate clearance from fuel and port.
You might be able to make it work for a top P channel, but in that case you might as well just have a hole in the roof as the ceramic stub would be destroyed in short order by loading fuel, even in the most careful loading. And this is from a guy who finds that material more than robust enough for firebox construction.
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Post by invention1 on Jan 28, 2018 9:04:37 GMT -8
The material I was referencing is NOT insulating ceramic fiber. It is actually a pretty good conductor of heat, same stuf| as used in electric heating elements. I've got some samples of it in a different shape, for a whole nother hack. Yes, at the bottom of a stove it would be beat to death right away. It's conductivity for heat is a little worse than steel, same order of magnitude. It's a dense, very hard material, much harder than firebrick. It would compare well to one of your corian plates that bounce around in your dishwasher for decades.
I might just pick up a couple chunks of this stuff to experiment with. Would it be more durable backed up by a piece of steel? Maybe so. I think the material could have some useful potential.
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Post by pinhead on Jan 29, 2018 7:41:32 GMT -8
The standard/original P-Channel should last many years even when made with mild steel.
I built mine with mild chromed steel and it doesn't show any sign of damage after 3 or 4 years and 3 different batch boxes (the first P-Channel I welded together, though I've torn down and rebuilt the batch box multiple times).
BUT! I'm not discouraging your experiment by any means; I'd be interested in how the material performs.
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Jan 29, 2018 13:38:38 GMT -8
Certainly sounds like an interesting and worthwhile experiment, with porential for making a product for people to buy that would obviate metal working skill requirements and make a P-channel that would last the life of the stove.
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Post by n8ivetxn on Aug 30, 2018 21:30:37 GMT -8
I've seen that ad! I almost sent them a picture of an s-channel to see if they could fab something similar....alas, instead, I opted for trying to find a welder that will make one for me.... I never knew welders would be so difficult to locate.
I'd be curious about your experience with this company, and how your experiment goes!
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Post by Orange on Oct 8, 2018 11:13:24 GMT -8
just a thought, will painting the steel with mud prolong its life?
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Post by rakettimuurari on Oct 9, 2018 2:51:44 GMT -8
just a thought, will painting the steel with mud prolong its life? I've been wondering that too... I would figure that larger expansion of steel in heat would flake that clay off; should try though!
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Post by peterberg on Oct 9, 2018 6:40:05 GMT -8
I think that painting clay on steel won't work since there's no real bond between the two materials. A very old way to protect steel against corrosion is the enamel process: a thin layer of glass baked on the underlying material.
Modern enamel materials can be made in such a way that it sports the same expansion coefficient as the steel or whatever. No more corrosion, no spalling because oxygen can't reach the metal.
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Post by blackhall on Oct 15, 2018 19:14:27 GMT -8
So why not use Ceramic Flue Liner? Comes in various sizes, square and round, can be cut with a masonry saw and would appear to be designed for the very application in question. Plus its relatively cheap.
I agree metal is doomed-- I have burned up too many steel stoves of various configurations.
BTW I am new here-- be gentle with me.
Mark
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Post by satamax on Oct 15, 2018 20:13:19 GMT -8
Mark, i've used some schiedel, tona, and another italian brand. In the heat riser, i plainly admit that they don't last as long as i expected. They last. But, crack, and pieces fall in the riser. I'm starting my fourth winter with one heat riser made with i think either tona or schiedel chamotte fireclay. One bit fell in the riser, and i haven't replaced that one.
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Post by woodrascal on Oct 16, 2018 0:45:01 GMT -8
So why not use Ceramic Flue Liner? Comes in various sizes, square and round, can be cut with a masonry saw and would appear to be designed for the very application in question. Plus its relatively cheap. Hi Mark. Over here in the UK I looked into using various ceramic flue liners as a heat riser for my first build 'J' tube. All the suppliers I spoke to told me that none of the products they stocked would be able to cope with the extreme heat that would be generated in a well designed rocket riser. I even asked a pumice liner manufacturer about the durability of their products under such high heat conditions and they also admitted that their system would fail.
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Post by Vortex on Oct 16, 2018 2:00:47 GMT -8
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Post by coastalrocketeer on Oct 23, 2018 13:55:12 GMT -8
No reason one couldn't do the same with a ceramic round riser of the desired inner diameter plus two times blanket thickness. Have had no issues with the one I have made with round duct and blanket.... Just remember when you cut your blanket to make it about 1CM longer than the actual circumference, and cut it down later if needed. "What do I do now Boss? I cut this one three times and it's STILL too short!"
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Post by satamax on Oct 24, 2018 4:09:26 GMT -8
Measure twice, cut once!
Or, "trois fois coupé, trois fois trop court! "
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